What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Derick]

What do you mean “again”? We’re they replaced before and if so what brand did you go with? I just replaced the ones on my 08 with ARP so I’ll never have to worry.

I had an exhaust shop replace the gaskets and manifolds in late 2018. I spoke with the owners son last week because I spent good money on a bad repair. He said he was unfamiliar with the hardware that was installed, but that he was also out for a period in late 2018. He said he would generally remember the job, but the hardware that was installed is not what he uses day to day...so he knew it wasnt him. We came to an agreement to split the costs of the re-repair. I'm going to buy the ARP bolts too, along with a remflex gasket set so this isn't a problem again.

 

[Sam Harris]

I had an exhaust shop replace the gaskets and manifolds in late 2018. I spoke with the owners son last week because I spent good money on a bad repair. He said he was unfamiliar with the hardware that was installed, but that he was also out for a period in late 2018. He said he would generally remember the job, but the hardware that was installed is not what he uses day to day...so he knew it wasnt him. We came to an agreement to split the costs of the re-repair. I'm going to buy the ARP bolts too, along with a remflex gasket set so this isn't a problem again.

So he’s fixing it for free, and you’re buying the bolts? Hope so. They should certainly have lasted longer than 2 years!

 

[Derick]

So he’s fixing it for free, and you’re buying the bolts? Hope so. They should certainly have lasted longer than 2 years!

Not free, but cheaper than retail. They offer a 1 year warranty, and I acknowledge they could tell me to pound sand, but I think it's a fair deal.

 

[Rocket Man]

Not free, but cheaper than retail. They offer a 1 year warranty, and I acknowledge they could tell me to pound sand, but I think it's a fair deal.

I have to say I wouldn’t be going back there in the future. I can understand one year warranty but when they install a part that failed with another part that they can’t even tell you what quality or part number it is and it failed 2 years later they should do the labor for free just as a goodwill gesture. Every shop (and every owner) knows these bolts are known failures and so they should be making sure they install the best quality bolts available.

 

[Sam Harris]

I have to say I wouldn’t be going back there in the future. I can understand one year warranty but when they install a part that failed with another part that they can’t even tell you what quality or part number it is and it failed 2 years later they should do the labor for free just as a goodwill gesture. Every shop (and every owner) knows these bolts are known failures and so they should be making sure they install the best quality bolts available.

Agree. I’d expect them to stand behind their work better than that. That’s BS. $0.02

 

[gooffeyguy]

Finally did the foglight mod with the diode @Rocket Man sent me.

I couldn't have picked a hotter day to do it, it's about 95* here, and when I first pulled into the garage after getting home from work about 1pm, it was 105* in the garage.... Lol

After turning on the gable and ceiling fan and opening the windows it got down to 95* in the garage.

@Doubeleive The foglights DO come on with the DRL I found out after pulling it out of the garage to test in the sunlight. Not sure if I really like them basically being on all the time, even in the daytime.

The diode did get warm, especially when the high beams were on. I took some temps with my IR temp gun. With vehicle off, diode temp was 100-105*. With vehicle running and low beams/foglights on, diode temp went up to about 120*. With highbeams/foglights on, diode temp got up to 140*.

I only had the highbeams on for a few minutes. Not sure if the temp would continue to rise if I left them on longer.

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[Derick]

I have to say I wouldn’t be going back there in the future. I can understand one year warranty but when they install a part that failed with another part that they can’t even tell you what quality or part number it is and it failed 2 years later they should do the labor for free just as a goodwill gesture. Every shop (and every owner) knows these bolts are known failures and so they should be making sure they install the best quality bolts available.

I certainly don't disagree. I don't intend on doing much business with them. I found another shop that helped with the transmissions hard shifting and I trust them. They however want 400+ to re-fix the headers and do the extraction/s and this muffler place wants 200-250... So less is better but I don't intend on returning.

 

[992dr]

The hoses and pumps are the most common issue or the tank can crack also but not as common
if you do not have bose then it could be a short in the radio or check the wiring I have read the rear speaker wires are often cut-off on the ppv's and people have to splice them back together to even get them to work.

Gotcha, thanks. I'll have to try to get under there tomorrow to check it out.
Weird thing is, my stereo worked fine for years. It just randomly started acting up. Started flickering once in a while, then it got to be more often now it may come on when I hit a big bump.
I need to find out where the connections are to see what's going on.

Installed 22” gm transport wheels on my 13 PPV yesterdayView attachment 251666View attachment 251667View attachment 251668 View attachment 251669

That looks goooood. What's the drop?
Where can you find transport wheels for a good deal?

 

[kbuskill]

Installed 22” gm transport wheels on my 13 PPV yesterdayView attachment 251666View attachment 251667View attachment 251668 View attachment 251669

Will the PPV center caps fit on the transport wheels?

 

[osiris94ej]

Some new new soon.

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[cfmistry]

So I've been paying close attention to my "clunk" and I have noted that it only happens when letting off the brake when the suspension goes from loaded to unloaded. I've narrowed it down to my caliper (like my mechanic thinks) or my strut (likely the mount but I'd just replace the whole thing).

I'm going to have my mechanic go over all the bolts in the front end (he just put in new upper arms a few weeks ago), and if that checks out have him look into those two. Either getting new shocks or new calipers? Woohoo??

 

[Doubeleive]

So I've been paying close attention to my "clunk" and I have noted that it only happens when letting off the brake when the suspension goes from loaded to unloaded. I've narrowed it down to my caliper (like my mechanic thinks) or my strut (likely the mount but I'd just replace the whole thing).

I'm going to have my mechanic go over all the bolts in the front end (he just put in new upper arms a few weeks ago), and if that checks out have him look into those two. Either getting new shocks or new calipers? Woohoo??

when I had my nbs one of the upper control arm bolts was loose and I chased that noise for a long time, it was hidden because of the washer, when we finally found it the bolt had made the frame bolt hole egg shaped, not really any way to fix that so we welded a big fat thick washer to the frame right there since the bolt was plenty long to reach thru, never had a problem with it after that.

 

[madmanjustice]

Got my rebar swapped so now I have a hitch receiver on the PPV.

 

[madmanjustice]

Installed 22” gm transport wheels on my 13 PPV yesterdayView attachment 251666View attachment 251667View attachment 251668 View attachment 251669

That needs some baby moons....

 

[cfmistry]

when I had my nbs one of the upper control arm bolts was loose and I chased that noise for a long time, it was hidden because of the washer, when we finally found it the bolt had made the frame bolt hole egg shaped, not really any way to fix that so we welded a big fat thick washer to the frame right there since the bolt was plenty long to reach thru, never had a problem with it after that.

Thank you for bringing that up! I actually read about that in an old post of yours, and got under and checked them myself. While they were not as tight as I'd like them to be, they weren't loose enough to cause a clunk.

 

[Doubeleive]

bought a new dash cam for it since my trusty Garmin apparently took a dump 2 days ago, I went to download a video today and discovered the video finally went out on the garmin finally died after 5 years or so, audio & gps works but no video looks like the ccd died. went with a kenwood I have had my eye on for a while can't get them in the USA has to be shipped from the UK or Japan and the japanese ones appear to have a japanese menu which is no bueno so UK it is. about $165 for the dashcam and parking power adapter, has lane departure and impact warning which I wont use but I will use the forward departure warning so I won't ever be sitting at a green light like a dumbass. lol

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you for bringing that up! I actually read about that in an old post of yours, and got under and checked them myself. While they were not as tight as I'd like them to be, they weren't loose enough to cause a clunk.

I might not have ever found it if I didn't just happen to be under it while it was on a lift and saw it move while checking for the clunk source, most shops won't let you under the vehicle while it is on a lift but I knew these guys pretty good so they let me just wander around like I was a employee lol

 

[cmatt]

Forgot I had this. Also found the GM top end cleaner in the garage. Glad I didn’t get rid of it when I had a direct injection engine. Guess who’s going to do an injector/top end cleaning to their engine.

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[Rocket Man]

Forgot I had this. Also found the GM top end cleaner in the garage. Glad I didn’t get rid of it when I had a direct injection engine. Guess who’s going to do an injector/top end cleaning to their engine.

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Are you having fuel issues?

 

[cmatt]

Are you having fuel issues?

Honestly, not that I’m aware of. My thinking is after 8 yrs and 135k miles, but new to me, it might benefit from it. Admittedly, I obsess over preventative maintenance to a fault.


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