What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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cfmistry

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Usually, but worth checking. Something is going slack and then taking up slack when slowing and going. If the front differential mounts are good, motor mounts are good, and calipers seem to be sliding, I’d be looking at all other parts of the drive train just to be sure.
No tears, the look good, and I don’t hear any noises when spinning the wheels in the air.
 

GreyStone

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So paying real close attention, the clunk is when I let off the brakes after moderate-hard braking. Before I even touch the accelerator. Makes the engine mounts a less likely source right?
Maybe it's your front suspension - when you brake moderately the front end goes down and then comes up on release. - What year truck do you have? Check your exhaust manifold bolts too.
 
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cfmistry

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Sway bar bushings are new. Struts and mounts are original with 170k on them... could be the culprit, but how to test??
 

cfmistry

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Thank you to everyone for the help.

So to summarize...

Light clunk noise when coming off the brakes (sounds like the front left). Both in forward and reverse. Don't have to touch the accelerator to hear it.

Caliper sliders are lubed up and in great shape. Rotors and pads have plenty of life left.

New control arms, new tie-rod end, new sway bar bushings. Front diff bushings look in good shape.

I will have my wife turn the steering wheel around and listen for strut bearing noise. Other than that, I can only assume it's a sticky caliper??
 

swathdiver

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Other than that, I can only assume it's a sticky caliper??

Mine is down for that right now. First time it was a wobbly steering wheel. Second time it locked up (one piston) and smoked the driver's side rotor and pads. Waiting on new ones from Parts Center Plus (Ebay GM dealer).

What did you use to lubricate the guide pins and shims?
 

992dr

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The washer fluid reservoir has 2 hoses, for front and rear. You’ll need to pull the wheel and fender liner to check the hoses where they go into the pumps at the reservoir. The rear speakers have at least 2 connections- at the back of the head unit and the amp if you have one plus at the speakers themselves but if both are cutting out it might be the fader in your head unit. Try banging on the dash around the stereo to see if they cut in and out and try moving the fader back and forth. You didn’t specify what your stereo consists of- stock HU or aftermarket, Bose or not etc.

Sounds like its more than likely the hoses.

My stereo is all stock. Not sure if its Bose, probably not because its a PPV. I'd like to replace the head unit with a new factory just because the numbers on the buttons are warn off.

sometimes the factory amp can develop a short, as for the washer fluid sometimes the lines crack or a pump motor will crack, you will probably have to take the splash guard off the drivers front wheel well to get a close look or try with a flashlight from underneath.

Would a PPV come with a factory amp? My stereo is all stock.
Do pump motors crack often? Hoping its just the hoses.
I'll be checking them out tomorrow.
 

Doubeleive

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Sounds like its more than likely the hoses.

My stereo is all stock. Not sure if its Bose, probably not because its a PPV. I'd like to replace the head unit with a new factory just because the numbers on the buttons are warn off.



Would a PPV come with a factory amp? My stereo is all stock.
Do pump motors crack often? Hoping its just the hoses.
I'll be checking them out tomorrow.
The hoses and pumps are the most common issue or the tank can crack also but not as common
if you do not have bose then it could be a short in the radio or check the wiring I have read the rear speaker wires are often cut-off on the ppv's and people have to splice them back together to even get them to work.
 

Doubeleive

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Aha. That’s your special friend. I get it.
i'd make her my special friend

molly.JPG
 

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