What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Leo1103]

Should be much more than 1/8". Anyway, I used a recip saw to slice the inside and outside along the bottom of the frame rail simultaneously, working forward from the back until I got close to the tank. Then I used a cut-off disc to slice the outside and forward edge so all that was left holding it on was the inside part next to the tank. I beat a cold chisel into the slice on the outside to spread the gap open far enough to get a pry bar into the gap, then pried the bracket downward as far as I could. This gave me plenty of room to use the cut-off disc to score the remaining back wall. Then I bent the bracket up and down until it snapped off. Cleaned up the remains on the frame with a flap disc and painted. Nuttin to it.


*EDIT*
Link to post in my build thread for pertinent pics. Also- maybe it's not much more than 1/8". I forgot how close it was. I was picturing it to be more around 1/2" clearance. You could always slip a piece of metal back there as an extra layer of protection while cutting the bracket. I get pretty surgical with a cut-off wheel so I felt comfortable with how I did it.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-19#post-1320078

After checking out those pics, I'll take another look today.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Shark fin antenna is pretty loose. i could immediately see the ashy paint that it should be covering. sunroof drain appear to be clear. still gonna hit it with air to blow anything in the line out

how can i tighten the antenna? all the video tutorials i see are for sierra/silverados. I'm sure they're close to what we have right?

 

[PG01]

Shark fin antenna is pretty loose. i could immediately see the ashy paint that it should be covering. sunroof drain appear to be clear. still gonna hit it with air to blow anything in the line out

how can i tighten the antenna? all the video tutorials i see are for sierra/silverados. I'm sure they're close to what we have right?

Have to pull the headliner down... obviously just the drivers corner but be careful not to pull too hard... i think you can get it low enough for your forearm and a wrench... i guessing 10mm like every other stupid bolt from GM.

You’re gonna want to Turn the air down low.... ive heard guys blow the line off the drain bung thats molded in.....then youll have more problems....i like the idea of using a thicker weed eater string to fish it out.... i think wade @wjburken mentioned that one.

 

[George B]

Just made an appointment to have the hood repainted and to have rust inhibitor sprayed into all the nooks and crannies. ~1200.00 But rust sucks so it's worth it.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just made an appointment to have the hood repainted and to have rust inhibitor sprayed into all the nooks and crannies. ~1200.00 But rust sucks so it's worth it.

Are they spraying the inhibitor under the whole truck or just the hood?

 

[wjburken]

Have to pull the headliner down... obviously just the drivers corner but be careful not to pull too hard... i think you can get it low enough for your forearm and a wrench... i guessing 10mm like every other stupid bolt from GM.

You’re gonna want to Turn the air down low.... ive heard guys blow the line off the drain bung thats molded in.....then youll have more problems....i like the idea of using a thicker weed eater string to fish it out.... i think wade @wjburken mentioned that one.

Should be able to get access to the bolt by removing the plastic trim piece that goes around the sunroof and reach in from the sunroof opening in the headliner. Before you tighten it, you might want to loosen it a little bit more and shoot a bead of silicone under it and then tighten it.

Here is what the antenna looks like

 

[George B]

Are they spraying the inhibitor under the whole truck or just the hood?

The whole truck. It's a product called SealOut and it works really well. Goes in the body cavities not sprayed on the surface. They will do the hood, Front fenders, doors, rockers, rear quarters and lift gate. This will be the fourth vehicle I will have them do and my Dad has had five or six done. It really helps to preserve these rigs up here. That and using Fluid film on whatever is bare underneath in the fall keeps em solid longer. Lots of labor involved in doing the job so it's pricey.

 

[bigrhino]

 

[bigrhino]

Front and rear led lighting.

 

[Rocket Man]

View attachment 246382 View attachment 246383

That’s a lotta light

 

[mikeyss]

Front and rear led lighting.

I think that looks awesome and you do good work. I have a question though. I'm not the most knowledgeable with electric, I wonder would the additional load of those lights coming off of the gray wire you showed, will have any negative affects having that additional load on that one circuit? It was just a thought that popped in my mind, so I may be totally wrong with this thought.

 

[Doubeleive]

I think that looks awesome and you do good work. I have a question though. I'm not the most knowledgeable with electric, I wonder would the additional load of those lights coming off of the gray wire you showed, will have any negative affects having that additional load on that one circuit? It was just a thought that popped in my mind, so I may be totally wrong with this thought.

There led so probably not much at all I have ran them in & out of my vehicles never had a problem, I just like blue instead

 

[1BADI5]

Scheduled my dyno tune for monday morning at 10am

Cant wait to have it shift right and see what it puts down

 

[Geoffsfas10]

I think that looks awesome and you do good work. I have a question though. I'm not the most knowledgeable with electric, I wonder would the additional load of those lights coming off of the gray wire you showed, will have any negative affects having that additional load on that one circuit? It was just a thought that popped in my mind, so I may be totally wrong with this thought.

no, theres so little load that the LEDs pull, if you switch everything out to LED, the truck is expected to have halogens in them, which the load is designed for. All those LEDs turning on is probably half the load the halogens were making.

 

[bigrhino]

Thank

That’s a lotta light

you.

 

[kbuskill]

Scheduled my dyno tune for monday morning at 10am

Cant wait to have it shift right and see what it puts down

Will that be with the new and improved intake complete and installed?

 

[1BADI5]

Will that be with the new and improved intake complete and installed?

I wish, but I'm teaching this week. I still have about another 6 hours worth of work on it.

My current intake manifold is ported (TB opening and gasket matched the runners)

 

[Mickey_7106]

I think im gonna pull the whole thing out and apply a thick sealant around the orfice of where the wire goes through and around the inside of the outer perimeter. I think someone mentioned RTV, also does this thing need to be able to vent? There's a small gap on the back side of the antenna seal.

 

[swathdiver]

I think im gonna pull the whole thing out and apply a thick sealant around the orfice of where the wire goes through and around the inside of the outer perimeter. I think someone mentioned RTV, also does this thing need to be able to vent? There's a small gap on the back side of the antenna seal.

View attachment 246420

The antenna is only meant to be tightened once. We put clear RTV around ours. After a few car washes it was wiped away, so we re-applied it and stayed away from the car washes. Sealed the little drain in back too. I bought a spare from Wade but haven't swapped the old one out for it yet. RTV still keep us dry underneath.

 

[Mickey_7106]

What do you mean by that? Will it break off if i try to tighten it?

The antenna is only meant to be tightened once.