Sorry I thought you needed 90s. I will see what I can find in straight.
Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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OP
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Working on the rear bumper and rear flat panel that closes off the back of the bed. The panel is being stripped and repainted in VHT black Crinkle and I’ll find a way to keep the tailgate from hitting it and wearing the paint off. The rear bumper has issues with the plastic pieces, the worst of which is that the center plastic piece is the lowest hanging part so if I exit a lot and the rear drags even a tiny bit, it grinds off the tabs that holt it on. I removed those tabs and relocated the push clips so I could add 2 sacrificial bolts that are adjustable and hang just a bit lower than the plastic. I have already replaced that plastic piece twice, I don’t want to do it again.
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Also I want to do something similar to this.
iamdub
Full Access Member
#IfYoursDon'tDragYouMustBeAFag #SparkItOrParkIt #Don'tBeLameScrapeYourFrame
OP
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I just DID rotate it lol. I wanted to point things away from the driveline by having them enter from the rear as they say.
But I think I can make those elbows work.
Update: as ridiculous of a price as those are, then they add insult to injury by charging a minimum of $17.50 UPS ground to ship 5 of those to me which brings the total for those 5 little connectors to almost $80. Ridiculous. I’m gonna see if I can find something similar locally.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Just curious--could you cover the manifold with a steel box or cover? Looks fragile and busy back there. Just looks easy to damage.I just DID rotate it lol. I wanted to point things away from the driveline by having them enter from the rear as they say.
But I think I can make those elbows work.
View attachment 242794
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I found some elbows like those but made out of Kynar and rated for 300 psi, from Grainger, for $55 to my door by next Monday. I ordered them, and I’ll go pick up some more aluminum tubing tomorrow to make some new lines out of. I have searched and searched for the same in straight fittings but nothing, which makes sense because there isn’t really any need for them. Reducers yes, elbows yes, but not the same size on both ends. That makes sense because the only reason for them would be what I’m doing.
Link?
I am glad you found them cheaper. I just remembered seeing them on there a long time ago so posted them up.
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https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Kynar-Plug-In-Elbow-19D133
Thanks, I would have never even thought about that possibility.
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I temp mounted the headlights so I can get the horizontal aim on the projectors and then tighten them more tomorrow so I can do a final check tomorrow night before epoxying the big hex nuts in place. I’m liking the new look, kinda stealthy. Can’t wait to get the lenses on.
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Oh yeah I will- the bed. It sits right over the top of it, about 6” up. The lines are just temped too, they will be clamped so they can’t move. And the manifold is solid.
Looking sweet!
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I used an engine hoist. It would have been better if it lifted high enough that I didn’t have to pull the rear wheels off. I’m gonna see if I can hook it up different to reinstall it.
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I got my washer fluid reservoir from On3 Performance today. The truck hasn’t had washer fluid since I bought it, I just kept a spray can of window cleaner in the glove box. The tubs are in the way of the OEM reservoir. It looks good and I just located the wiring for the old one under the hood, just a simple 2 wire hookup and a bit of 1/8” hose. It’s working but the old hard plastic line under the cowl has a leak so it looks like I need to buy one of those.
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Finished the headlights today.
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A few shots of it after a wash. It’s been awhile since it was this much back together.
