Best approach to improve strength of front diff and axles on lifted 2007 Tahoe LTZ

[BigRedB]

Hi,
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4, 5.3 flex fuel, I have had her since new, Installed 6.5" Fabtech Lift at 80k miles, she sits on 10.5" wide 35" tall nitto mud grapplers. The set up is good but I will probably change the tires to a 35" AT.

At 130k miles cylinder 6 died due to the AFM lifter falling. Soooo, I am having the top end rebuilt. Port and polished performance heads, a mild cam, AFM delete, ss steel headers and X pipe, Cat delete, along with a custom tune. Putting new motor mounts on too, non AFM style hopefully.

To make a long story longer...
Shortly before the engine died, I had the joy of replacing the transmission and the rear end. hind sight is 20/20, I had no clue I was replacing the majority of the drive train. Oh well I am in it now, I love the truck so Im going to finish it. I am happy

I am happy I have already inadvertently replaced the transmission due to this engine upgrade. After it is built the shop said she would have 600 to 700 hp.

Can the 460le transmission handle it as a daily driver?
Can the stock rear end handle it?
Will the stock front diff, short axles and bearing hub assembly handle it?

The dreamer in me would love to do hole shots in 4wd, Just maybe this lifted truck will surprise a Durango SRT

How to beef this dive train up?

RCV short axles for the front for one
I would like to install a diff from a 2500 HD
I would like to swap in the wheel bearing hub assembly from the 2500 HD too, the knuckle would need to be machined to do this at least for the 4 bolt pattern the stock Tahoe hub has 3 bolts, Im unsure about the bearing diameters, wondering if the bore in the knuckle would need to be machined too?
Of course along with this I would install the rear end from a 2500 too, I would have it fabbed to fit on stock Tahoe springs, shocks etc,
8 lug hubs and increased teeth on the axle splines as well as the increased capacity of the gearing.

Do I need to do this? Knowing myself I will not be able to resist an occasional 4wd hole shot, the guy at the light looks too confident, I will need to test him.

Not to mention at a minimum I need to change the gearing anyway, Im running stock 3:73, Im thinking of going to 4:10. Is the investment in the gearing change in the stock set up for the front diff and rear end dust in the wind because they are destined to be shredded by the increased hp?

Sorry for the book...
Thanks for any input

 

[BigRedB]

Hi,
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4, 5.3 flex fuel, I have had her since new, Installed 6.5" Fabtech Lift at 80k miles, she sits on 10.5" wide 35" tall nitto mud grapplers. The set up is good but I will probably change the tires to a 35" AT.

At 130k miles cylinder 6 died due to the AFM lifter falling. Soooo, I am having the top end rebuilt. Port and polished performance heads, a mild cam, AFM delete, ss steel headers and X pipe, Cat delete, along with a custom tune. Putting new motor mounts on too, non AFM style hopefully.

To make a long story longer...
Shortly before the engine died, I had the joy of replacing the transmission and the rear end. hind sight is 20/20, I had no clue I was replacing the majority of the drive train. Oh well I am in it now, I love the truck so Im going to finish it. I am happy

I am happy I have already inadvertently replaced the transmission due to this engine upgrade. After it is built the shop said she would have 600 to 700 hp.

Can the 460le transmission handle it as a daily driver?
Can the stock rear end handle it?
Will the stock front diff, short axles and bearing hub assembly handle it?

The dreamer in me would love to do hole shots in 4wd, Just maybe this lifted truck will surprise a Durango SRT

How to beef this dive train up?

RCV short axles for the front for one
I would like to install a diff from a 2500 HD
I would like to swap in the wheel bearing hub assembly from the 2500 HD too, the knuckle would need to be machined to do this at least for the 4 bolt pattern the stock Tahoe hub has 3 bolts, Im unsure about the bearing diameters, wondering if the bore in the knuckle would need to be machined too?
Of course along with this I would install the rear end from a 2500 too, I would have it fabbed to fit on stock Tahoe springs, shocks etc,
8 lug hubs and increased teeth on the axle splines as well as the increased capacity of the gearing.

Do I need to do this? Knowing myself I will not be able to resist an occasional 4wd hole shot, the guy at the light looks too confident, I will need to test him.

Not to mention at a minimum I need to change the gearing anyway, Im running stock 3:73, Im thinking of going to 4:10. Is the investment in the gearing change in the stock set up for the front diff and rear end dust in the wind because they are destined to be shredded by the increased hp?

Sorry for the book...
Thanks for any input

Also one more detail, I am pretty sure that a 2500 front end and rear end swap would require me to swap the 460le for the 480le. Is this true?

How about the T case?

 

[iamdub]

SFA swap FTW.

 

[swathdiver]

Hi,
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4, 5.3 flex fuel...

To make a long story longer...
Shortly before the engine died, I had the joy of replacing the transmission and the rear end. hind sight is 20/20, I had no clue I was replacing the majority of the drive train. Oh well I am in it now, I love the truck so Im going to finish it. I am happy

I am happy I have already inadvertently replaced the transmission due to this engine upgrade. After it is built the shop said she would have 600 to 700 hp.

Can the 460le transmission handle it as a daily driver?
Can the stock rear end handle it?
Will the stock front diff, short axles and bearing hub assembly handle it?

LMC Truck and others carry the HD tie rod ends so you can do 4WD launches to your hearts content.

@randeez on here has installed a larger front axle on his 2012 Denali as well as the AXN axle for the rear. These come from 2WD Denalis, Escalades and 6.0 Avalanches.

Having said that, @67RS427 has a big block turbo 2007 Denali still running the stock drive train and it has yet to blow up. These are just some of the guys whose brains you want to pick!

Where in Florida are you? Port Saint Lucie here and Randy is down in Jupiter/West Palm area. For two years now we've gotten together at PBIR to run our trucks at the drags and fellowship.

 

[BigRedB]

SFA swap FTW.

Ive thought about a SFA but I will lose comfort on the ride, I will use this rig primarily to tow and drive daily. I would do a solid axle definitely if this was for moderate off road use.

That's why Im changing the tires, back to AT.

I think I can beef up the front end to with stand the 4wd launches with the big tires, this is less work, I can keep the Fabtech set-up on the front end.

 

[BigRedB]

Thanks you for the build link I will check it out

 

[BigRedB]

LM Truck and others carry the HD tie rod ends so you can do 4WD launches to your hearts content.

@randeez on here has installed a larger front axle on his 2012 Denali as well as the AXN axle for the rear. These come from 2WD Denalis, Escalades and 6.0 Avalanches.

Having said that, @67RS427 has a big block turbo 2007 Denali still running the stock drive train and it has yet to blow up. These are just some of the guys whose brains you want to pick!

Where in Florida are you? Port Saint Lucie here and Randy is down in Jupiter/West Palm area. For two years now we've gotten together at PBIR to run our trucks at the drags and fellowship.

Thanks for the details, I am smiling about the axles for the rear, easy solution. And the references are appealing, any foresight is great, Im trying to navigate the best set up for dollar.

Im in Pinellas County, South of Clearwater. Maybe sometime Ill show at the PBIR, it sounds fun.
Mu name is Isaac

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks for the details, I am smiling about the axles for the rear, easy solution. And the references are appealing, any foresight is great, Im trying to navigate the best set up for dollar.

Im in Pinellas County, South of Clearwater. Maybe sometime Ill show at the PBIR, it sounds fun.
Mu name is Isaac

Glad to know ya Isaac! I think our next meetup will be at Orlando Speedway so the guys up your way and in the middle can more easily attend.

Nathan @bigfootchiro is over your way and just put a 454 in his Tahoe.

 

[randeez]

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/10-bolt-to-14-bolt-9-5-sf-swap.103626/


is my axle adventures, i'll address the other ?s in a bit

 

[BigRedB]

LM Truck and others carry the HD tie rod ends so you can do 4WD launches to your hearts content.

@randeez on here has installed a larger front axle on his 2012 Denali as well as the AXN axle for the rear. These come from 2WD Denalis, Escalades and 6.0 Avalanches.

Having said that, @67RS427 has a big block turbo 2007 Denali still running the stock drive train and it has yet to blow up. These are just some of the guys whose brains you want to pick!

Where in Florida are you? Port Saint Lucie here and Randy is down in Jupiter/West Palm area. For two years now we've gotten together at PBIR to run our trucks at the drags and fellowship.

With regard to front axles, I found these from RCV, granted at 2500 a pair they are expensive but they are guaranteed to be indestructible.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate-ifs-cv-axle-set-for-gm-1500-88-and-up.html

 

[BigRedB]

Nice to meet you as well. It sounds like a fun group. A 454 in a Tahoe, very NICE!!!

 

[BigRedB]

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/10-bolt-to-14-bolt-9-5-sf-swap.103626/


is my axle adventures, i'll address the other ?s in a bit

Thanks for the build link, this is great info!!!

 

[67RS427]

Build the front with quality bearings and let it eat... Same with the rear. The 10 bolt really isn't that weak, it has 30 spline axles. I rebuilt my front and rear diff with quality HD bearings and threw a TruTrac in the rear and I'm AWD. Every stop light is an AWD/4x4 launch for me and I have yet to break anything. Now with a lightweight wheel and drag radial setup at the track I might worry a little about the T case but that's about it. The front is an open diff so there is only planetary gears, not much to break. I even reused my original ring and pinion for front and rear and I'm currently sitting at 165k miles (Transfer case is original).

402" iron block, Lunati crank/rods, BTR Stg 3 Blower Cam, Heavily ported LSA blower, 2.5" upper/10% overdrive lower (14-15psi) and so much more... Making close to 850-900hp pretty easy and I beat the crap out of this thing daily on a pretty heavy wheel/tire combo (285/45/22 which is 32" tall)

 

[Kraig]

Putting new motor mounts on too, non AFM style hopefully.

AFM uses different motor mounts?

 

[PG01]

AFM uses different motor mounts?

He is talking about going to a solid motor mount like the H3 (or other one I can’t remember the name of right now) as opposed to the stock oem hydraulic mount which supposedly helps with switching vibration from cylinder deactivation of the afm/dod system. Basically going solid mount.

 

[randeez]

With regard to front axles, I found these from RCV, granted at 2500 a pair they are expensive but they are guaranteed to be indestructible.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate-ifs-cv-axle-set-for-gm-1500-88-and-up.html

View attachment 219472

these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to , but being pretty much the only one doing it not many options.

4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I’d go 4.56’s with the 35’s and at least swap the rear axle out.

GM half ton axles die due to big tires, high power, and hard use. You’re talking about all three.

 

[BigRedB]

Build the front with quality bearings and let it eat... Same with the rear. The 10 bolt really isn't that weak, it has 30 spline axles. I rebuilt my front and rear diff with quality HD bearings and threw a TruTrac in the rear and I'm AWD. Every stop light is an AWD/4x4 launch for me and I have yet to break anything. Now with a lightweight wheel and drag radial setup at the track I might worry a little about the T case but that's about it. The front is an open diff so there is only planetary gears, not much to break. I even reused my original ring and pinion for front and rear and I'm currently sitting at 165k miles (Transfer case is original).

402" iron block, Lunati crank/rods, BTR Stg 3 Blower Cam, Heavily ported LSA blower, 2.5" upper/10% overdrive lower (14-15psi) and so much more... Making close to 850-900hp pretty easy and I beat the crap out of this thing daily on a pretty heavy wheel/tire combo (285/45/22 which is 32" tall)

Thank you this is some very helpful information. I have been doing all kinds of research but one can never beat advice from those who have already done it.

 

[BigRedB]

He is talking about going to a solid motor mount like the H3 (or other one I can’t remember the name of right now) as opposed to the stock oem hydraulic mount which supposedly helps with switching vibration from cylinder deactivation of the afm/dod system. Basically going solid mount.

exactly, I prefer the solid mounts, I want to remove any shape hair or trace of AFM. I understand Chevy's logic but I have had enough of it on this vehicle, let her be free to eat fuel!!!

 

[BigRedB]

these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to , but being pretty much the only one doing it not many options.

4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more

Thanks for the advice. Im looking long eyed at the transmission. I have a real good torque convertor to replace the OEM. Ive been looking at gearing for the front and rear too, it helps to hear peoples experiences. I need to really decide on the ratio for the gearing, I am just about ready to buy, so I have think long and hard to make up my mind.

I am leaning towards changing gearing in the current set up, I will probably get the CV axles too. I will run it until it breaks and then I will swap in the 480le transmission and larger rear end, ultimately this is what will make me happy. I wish I would have known I would be rebuilding the top end on the engine before I bought the transmission and axle. I made the commitment so now I have to use it til it breaks.