Hi,
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4, 5.3 flex fuel, I have had her since new, Installed 6.5" Fabtech Lift at 80k miles, she sits on 10.5" wide 35" tall nitto mud grapplers. The set up is good but I will probably change the tires to a 35" AT.
At 130k miles cylinder 6 died due to the AFM lifter falling. Soooo, I am having the top end rebuilt. Port and polished performance heads, a mild cam, AFM delete, ss steel headers and X pipe, Cat delete, along with a custom tune. Putting new motor mounts on too, non AFM style hopefully.
To make a long story longer...
Shortly before the engine died, I had the joy of replacing the transmission and the rear end. hind sight is 20/20, I had no clue I was replacing the majority of the drive train. Oh well I am in it now, I love the truck so Im going to finish it. I am happy
I am happy I have already inadvertently replaced the transmission due to this engine upgrade. After it is built the shop said she would have 600 to 700 hp.
Can the 460le transmission handle it as a daily driver?
Can the stock rear end handle it?
Will the stock front diff, short axles and bearing hub assembly handle it?
The dreamer in me would love to do hole shots in 4wd, Just maybe this lifted truck will surprise a Durango SRT
How to beef this dive train up?
RCV short axles for the front for one
I would like to install a diff from a 2500 HD
I would like to swap in the wheel bearing hub assembly from the 2500 HD too, the knuckle would need to be machined to do this at least for the 4 bolt pattern the stock Tahoe hub has 3 bolts, Im unsure about the bearing diameters, wondering if the bore in the knuckle would need to be machined too?
Of course along with this I would install the rear end from a 2500 too, I would have it fabbed to fit on stock Tahoe springs, shocks etc,
8 lug hubs and increased teeth on the axle splines as well as the increased capacity of the gearing.
Do I need to do this? Knowing myself I will not be able to resist an occasional 4wd hole shot, the guy at the light looks too confident, I will need to test him.
Not to mention at a minimum I need to change the gearing anyway, Im running stock 3:73, Im thinking of going to 4:10. Is the investment in the gearing change in the stock set up for the front diff and rear end dust in the wind because they are destined to be shredded by the increased hp?
Sorry for the book...
Thanks for any input
I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ 4x4, 5.3 flex fuel, I have had her since new, Installed 6.5" Fabtech Lift at 80k miles, she sits on 10.5" wide 35" tall nitto mud grapplers. The set up is good but I will probably change the tires to a 35" AT.
At 130k miles cylinder 6 died due to the AFM lifter falling. Soooo, I am having the top end rebuilt. Port and polished performance heads, a mild cam, AFM delete, ss steel headers and X pipe, Cat delete, along with a custom tune. Putting new motor mounts on too, non AFM style hopefully.
To make a long story longer...
Shortly before the engine died, I had the joy of replacing the transmission and the rear end. hind sight is 20/20, I had no clue I was replacing the majority of the drive train. Oh well I am in it now, I love the truck so Im going to finish it. I am happy
I am happy I have already inadvertently replaced the transmission due to this engine upgrade. After it is built the shop said she would have 600 to 700 hp.
Can the 460le transmission handle it as a daily driver?
Can the stock rear end handle it?
Will the stock front diff, short axles and bearing hub assembly handle it?
The dreamer in me would love to do hole shots in 4wd, Just maybe this lifted truck will surprise a Durango SRT
How to beef this dive train up?
RCV short axles for the front for one
I would like to install a diff from a 2500 HD
I would like to swap in the wheel bearing hub assembly from the 2500 HD too, the knuckle would need to be machined to do this at least for the 4 bolt pattern the stock Tahoe hub has 3 bolts, Im unsure about the bearing diameters, wondering if the bore in the knuckle would need to be machined too?
Of course along with this I would install the rear end from a 2500 too, I would have it fabbed to fit on stock Tahoe springs, shocks etc,
8 lug hubs and increased teeth on the axle splines as well as the increased capacity of the gearing.
Do I need to do this? Knowing myself I will not be able to resist an occasional 4wd hole shot, the guy at the light looks too confident, I will need to test him.
Not to mention at a minimum I need to change the gearing anyway, Im running stock 3:73, Im thinking of going to 4:10. Is the investment in the gearing change in the stock set up for the front diff and rear end dust in the wind because they are destined to be shredded by the increased hp?
Sorry for the book...
Thanks for any input