10 bolt to 14 Bolt, 9.5 sf swap

[randeez]

Couldnt find much on here, usually gets shot down and told to build a nice 10 bolt

Won't be so much of a DIY as it will be the first I've done, closest swaps i've found have been on avalanches mostly. If everything works out I will clean up the thread and probably leave the stuff i've done wrong so you'll know not to make the same mistake.

My truck: 2012 yukon denali 6.2, AWD, 6l80E 10 bolt, 8.6, 3.42, G80
Axle out of: 2013 escalade 2wd options AXN (9.5 axle) GU6 (3.42 gear) G80 (gov lock) should be here monday, I am going to try and have everything I may need on hand for a quick swap next weekend, driveshaft willing.

I've compared all the brake parts they all match, All the link bars should match up, I have the spoon panhard if that needs to be adjusted. There is a conversion ujoint available that has the stock driveshaft side to 1350 joint on the 14 bolt yoke, *IF* the driveshaft doesnt need to be shortened drastically it will atleast allow me to keep it on the road while custom/balanced driveshaft is built. From what i've found the 14bolt yoke is about 1" more forward than the 10bolt. some have thrown in the conversion ujoint and no problems but I havent been able to verify it will work specifically for my swap with the AWD case.

 

[swathdiver]

I don't remember the guy having to shorten his original driveshaft when he put the AXN axle in Randy (Performance Trucks article).

 

[randeez]

lets hope! between it being closer and me being lowered a little bit it straightens out the driveshaft i dont know how much i'll be able to get away with.

conversion u-joint "1350 to mechanics 3R", yukon part number YUJ1153

 

[randeez]

Axle showed up, had it delivered to friends shop so we could install on lift.
Axle looks great, reported as 26k miles and looks clean. Didn't do me any favors past that tho- cut the flex line to calipers (no calipers) and for whatever reason cut all hard brake lines on the axle, bent the hell out of the dust covers/backing plates, cut the speed sensors right before the connector.
Going to clean it up, slap some paint on it. Ordered the PML cover and lube locker gasket, ordered the conversion ujoint but I need to crawl under as it sits and try to determine what end is on my driveshaft. Going to do the charcoal canister while I'm there too
And I need to move the driverside mount of the sway bar over.

 

[swathdiver]

Have you thought of consigning the charcoal canister and all its related parts to the garbage can and turn it all off in the tune?

 

[randeez]

Not really, If $100 canister fixes it I'm good

 

[swathdiver]

Let me know what you think of removing that swaybar bolt when you get yours up in the air. Once the bracket is off, the bolt is broke off proud. Do you think heat can break it loose without damaging anything? It's the front bracket, passenger side, rear bolt of the two if I remember right.

 

[randeez]

Sounds like not a whole lot you can do. Start drilling it out. I had a MFer of a bolt stuck in a turbo housing burned up probably 15 drill bits new/old anything I could find, different materials...got about 75% of the way thru and ended up just beating the hell out of it with a center punch ripping up the last few threads

 

[swathdiver]

I busted off an easy out and then $60 worth of specialty drill bits within minutes. Hoping heat can break it loose and then use vise grips to remove the rest. Can't do much right now anyway, back injury flared up again.

 

[kbuskill]

I busted off an easy out and then $60 worth of specialty drill bits within minutes. Hoping heat can break it loose and then use vise grips to remove the rest. Can't do much right now anyway, back injury flared up again.

I would find a nut that will either thread onto it or slip over it and weld it to it and then see if the heat cycling of the welding process wouldn't help to break it free.