Coolant in Oil - What Now?

[mattt]

I am almost certain those are cracks in there. Would the oil make that pattern for any other reason?
Would it be worth buying a coolant pressure tester to confirm? There isn't a place here I can rent one from so I'd have to buy one and they're not as cheap as I'd like.
I'm leaning heavily towards option number 3 but that will depend on prices. About how many bones would an L59 crate engine set me back?

A lot of questions, sorry. That's not even close to the amount that's running through my mind right now though...

O'reilly's has them as part of their free loaner tool program, if there is one near you.

 

[Justinj360]

If it wasn't pressurized, you'll need to do so. It's important to be certain before condemning an engine

Crate engine? 3 to 7k depending on a variety of factors.

Used one with 120-140k on out of a crashed rig from the local wrecking yard? ~1k. Call around some places local to you.

As far as what's the right choice? That's one you'll have to figure out. There a case to be made both ways, with the most appropriate one depending on nuance.

Well I ran it yesterday for about 20 minutes. Would that have built enough pressure?

Why such a big difference in price for a new one? Does that include labor too?

Time to weigh some options...

I wonder where that oil sample is... Haven’t heard from them yet.

 

[Justinj360]

O'reilly's has them as part of their free loaner tool program, if there is one near you.

I tried there but they kept trying to give me a compression tester and they seemed confused. Or am I confused and that’ll work?

 

[PatDTN]

They're confused. Try asking for a radiator tester.

Used engine is a gamble. Reputable scrap yards will have tested the motor and offer some manner of short warranty or guarantee. I believe you can swap a 6.0 into your truck and retain all your accessories. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the 6.2 requires more effort and parts swapping.

If it was me I'd go with a used 6.0.

 

[Justinj360]

They're confused. Try asking for a radiator tester.

Used engine is a gamble. Reputable scrap yards will have tested the motor and offer some manner of short warranty or guarantee. I believe you can swap a 6.0 into your truck and retain all your accessories. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the 6.2 requires more effort and parts swapping.

If it was me I'd go with a used 6.0.

That's what I thought. I'll try them again.

Yeah I don't have a reputable scrap yard here. We have one but it's more of a pull it yourself, take your own risks kind of a place. That would be great if the 6.0 swapped right in.

 

[Tonyrodz]

That's what I thought. I'll try them again.

Yeah I don't have a reputable scrap yard here. We have one but it's more of a pull it yourself, take your own risks kind of a place. That would be great if the 6.0 swapped right in.

6.0 is a direct swap.

 

[SnowDrifter]

6.0 is a direct swap.

Need some stuff if you want it ti bolt up to the 4l60

 

[Tonyrodz]

Need some stuff if you want it ti bolt up to the 4l60

Mine was a direct swap. I went from a 4.8 to 6.0. I did get a stall. Everything is a direct swap, as long as you get a compatible year. I went with an 05 from a Silverado HD.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Curious. I was under the impression you needed *something* to make it work with the trans? I've not poked around on it much, just remember reading about it some time ago

 

[Tonyrodz]

Curious. I was under the impression you needed *something* to make it work with the trans? I've not poked around on it much, just remember reading about it some time ago

I think as long as you stick with the 4l60, you're good to go. Now if you're swapping to the 4l80--different story. If I'm not mistaken @bottomline2000 did that swap. Hopefully he'll chime in if he did.

 

[Justinj360]

Mine was a direct swap. I went from a 4.8 to 6.0. I did get a stall. Everything is a direct swap, as long as you get a compatible year. I went with an 05 from a Silverado HD.

What do you mean by you got a stall?
I've heard the 6.0's are gas guzzlers, did you find that to be true?

 

[mattt]

I tried there but they kept trying to give me a compression tester and they seemed confused. Or am I confused and that’ll work?

The O'Reilly part numbers you need are 67085 & 67086. Those are right from my receipt as I recently rented the same tool w/ adapter.

 

[Tonyrodz]

What do you mean by you got a stall?
I've heard the 6.0's are gas guzzlers, did you find that to be true?

I have other work done--cam, longer pushrods, springs, hv oil pump, long tubes, 3000 stall convertor, exhaust and tune. And yes, it's a gas guzzler. But that's with my mods. I don't see how it would be alot different then your 5.3 if you keep the same driving habits. Check out my build thread. If you're on a phone turn it sideways and look at the bottom of my post.

 

[swathdiver]

What do you mean by you got a stall?
I've heard the 6.0's are gas guzzlers, did you find that to be true?

Stall means a torque converter with a higher stall speed, the rpms at which it flashes to before the vehicle begins to move. The stock stall speed is about 1600 rpms. If you are at idle and stab the gas, the motor will flash to this rpms and then continue to climb.

If you build a 6.0 with the 5.3 heads, you'll have more torque and that should help with efficiency.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Stall means a torque converter with a higher stall speed, the rpms at which it flashes to before the vehicle begins to move. The stock stall speed is about 1600 rpms. If you are at idle and stab the gas, the motor will flash to this rpms and then continue to climb.

If you build a 6.0 with the 5.3 heads, you'll have more torque and that should help with efficiency.

Which heads are 5.3 specific James?

 

[mattt]

In the past, I owned an 01 2500HD CC LB 4wd truck with a 6.0. Yes, I would say a 6.0 is a thirsty engine. I suppose it will react differently in a much lighter weight Tahoe, but others I know with 6.0's have said the same thing....they like to slurp the fuel. YMMV......

 

[swathdiver]

Which heads are 5.3 specific James?

For Gen III, that would be the 862s and 706s.

 

[Tonyrodz]

For Gen III, that would be the 862s and 706s.

I had 862's on my 4.8.

 

[swathdiver]

I had 862's on my 4.8.

Yeah, they used them too. The 035 and 317s were used on the 6.0s which you probably have now. They are the grand-daddy of the Gen IV 823s used on the 6.0 and 6.2 motors.

I've read that folks using the 6.0 or 6.6 strokers with 243 heads make gobs of torque at the expense of high end rpms and horsepower which for me, is fine for a truck and my way of thinking anyway. The power band of the old SBC and the Turbocharged Buicks still guides my thinking.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yeah, they used them too. The 035 and 317s were used on the 6.0s which you probably have now. They are the grand-daddy of the Gen IV 823s used on the 6.0 and 6.2 motors.

I've read that folks using the 6.0 or 6.6 strokers with 243 heads make gobs of torque at the expense of high end rpms and horsepower which for me, is fine for a truck and my way of thinking anyway. The power band of the old SBC and the Turbocharged Buicks still guides my thinking.

Yup, I have the 317's. Some guys need the low end grunt, not many need the top end, although I've had mine up to 127, Buick 145--just sayin