Yukon goin crazy!

[daddyrim]

So the problems that I had previously described have gotten worse, and I believe they are related. When I started the truck, all hell broke loose. The door locks keep trying to lock, service just about everything shows up in the display. The speedometer was very intermittent as were all other gauges, cutting in and out, with very audible ticking noises from somewhere in the footwell area, that sounds like relays clicking on and off. Furthermore the ABS light and every other light were on and the truck would only drive in limp mode, which I had to do to get home, some 30 kms. At least the heater worked in the -30 celcius weather.

I have read that the negative battery cable can be a culprit or the body control module. I played with the negative battery cable but it did not seem to affect anything. I'm reluctant to order and change the cable if the body control module is the culprit.

I have found similar posts, but the resolution seems to be unclear. One such post is this one:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2009-yukon-slt-electrical-problem.60373/

My initial post can be found here:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...hutting-down-when-turning-ignition-off.90810/

This thread was linked in another one related to the issue, but the failure mode in this instance was a completely dead truck, which mine is not. It starts up without issue, and can drive just fine, in limp mode with everything going crazy. http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/intermitent-electrical-problems.63936/

Appreciate any feedback or pointers on this one.

 

[daddyrim]

Picture of my dash, note that this was travelling home and things cutting in and out, not sitting at idle as the dash would suggest.

 

[Da90]

I had similar issues in my 08 Sierra Denali. I had two different techs at the dealership tell me negative battery cable. The both also asked if the door locks were cycling by themselves. I replaced both and my issues have not returned. I got OE my cables off eBay for less than $150 shipped for both. That's where I would start.


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[2011SSVHOE]

Makes sense to me. Weird battery voltage. Years ago I saw a Volvo towed into the dealer that I worked for, car on the tow truck and the speedometer was showing 100 miles an hour. The tech changed the battery and the problem went away. I was told it's a low voltage issue. Check your battery and cables just my two cents worth!!!!

 

[Da90]

If I'm not mistaken there is a service bulletin describing these issues.


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[daddyrim]

I did find this interesting TSB. Sounds rather labour intensive to carry out.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM501358/SB-10043829-6448.pdf

 

[daddyrim]

Just ordered in a negative battery cable, hope to be able to install it tomorrow. I will post my results.

 

[Ciro]

It seems like an electrical grounding issue but I would check the oil level just in case, I got nervous seeing no pressure in the gauge.

 

[daddyrim]

Changed the cable, quite the pain accessing the front ground on the body mount. But now the truck won't even turn over. And the problem still exists. Cleaned all the grounding locations before reassembling, but now im in an even worse predicament.

Even tried boosting. Nope.

To top if off, I made an apt at our local dealer just in case, but they can't take the truck until the 30th of March. Unreal.

 

[Ciro]

Try to Jump start the truck, If your issue is the ground cable then you may probably had bad electrical connection and your alternator would not be fully charging your battery. Use another car as a donor not a jump starter, I have had issues with jump starters before.

 

[Pitterpat]

Try to Jump start the truck, If your issue is the ground cable then you may probably had bad electrical connection and your alternator would not be fully charging your battery. Use another car as a donor not a jump starter, I have had issues with jump starters before.

Your battery could have died....meaning it will not take a charge. How many miles on this battery? Buy a new battery and put it in, if this is the problem it will be cured, if it's not the problem take the new battery back.

 

[NGAneer]

x2 on ground loops. Especially in the great white north, y'all get plenty of corrosion. Negative battery cable and check/clean all your body and chassis grounds. My truck came from PA and all the grounds were trashed. My truck wen't crazy last summer similar to this. Cleaned the grounds and added a couple extras and no problems since.

 

[daddyrim]

Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?

 

[daddyrim]

I also cleaned the terminals at the mega fuse as there was some corrosion. No sign of issues on the Mega fuse itself.

 

[daddyrim]

Video of the craziness before the 'no crank' situation began... This is post negative battery cable change.

 

[NGAneer]

Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?

There's a body-chassis ground at the driver rear (to the rear of the tire infront of the bumper cover, outside the frame rail). There's another at the head of the passenger side frame rail (behind the bumper cover, around the bumper bracket I believe). The last chassis ground I can recall goes to the motor, either at the back of the head to the fire wall or the front of the head to one of the upper strut pocket.

 

[kbuskill]

Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?

You say the battery is strong.... How was this verified???

Unless you performed a load test on the battery then it could still be the culprit. I have seen many batteries show good voltage when checking with a volt meter but fall on there face with a load applied.

 

[daddyrim]

Well, I have three batteries, one I was using prior to this issue, and two brand new kept on trickle charge. I've tried all three and tried boosting on all three, one of which I brought back to have tested at Car quest where I purchased it. Two are AGM batteries, whereas the old one I was using as my primary is a 2 year old lead acid battery, also from Car quest.

By load rest, Process of elimination and voltage, I'm saying it's not the battery.

Thirdly, after all the battery shenanigans, I was able to jumper across the starter relay to confirm that the truck indeed had power. So I can engage the starter by jumpering the relay.

But the underlying other issues still persist when the key is in the 'run' position.

You say the battery is strong.... How was this verified???

Unless you performed a load test on the battery then it could still be the culprit. I have seen many batteries show good voltage when checking with a volt meter but fall on there face with a load applied.

 

[daddyrim]

Update - I caved and had it towed into the local dealership. Apparently they believe the root cause is the Active suspension Control Module, which has shorted out and caused the truck to not have communication, creating the current "no start" and other issues that I've been facing. Part will be arriving next Monday at a cost of $782 $Can, plus the labour this far.

http://www.gmpartsdepot.ca/p/Chevro...25971217.html?partner=Google_148_GM_StockCode

Any feedback on this?

 

[PG01]

Just something not right if it was starting before you touched neg cable and not starting after you replaced it. I think betwen the grounds, battery and the under hood fuse/power block corrosion....that's the real deal.... but im no mechanic and if thats what your dealer says....