The 90 degree ones come off the rear heater core, right behind the right rear tire. The aluminum ones look good. Considering where they live behind the tire, it's a good option. You will need two. Look online, they're readily available for between 15 and $20 each. About 5 or 6 feet of heater hose....5/8", go with a good quality hose. The other fittings and instructions are in the above link I think. Everything's available on Amazon.
Coolant leak ... time for a radiator...
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petethepug
Michael
I found best deal for radiator on Amazon GM Factory store in like new section. It arrived damaged and they only offered refund, not replacement. Ended up paying full price for replacement, keeping it, then returning damaged one to Amazon for full refund. Eat Cake Amazon.
Replaced radiator, added Gates Acc, a/c & pulley kit and H2O pump. Had already replaced heater T’s. Sugg doing coolant resv also. There’s no sensor on gmt900 for low coolant level.
All Denali have heat exchanger in radiator as well as external cooler in front of a/c condenser.
Be careful if access belt or coolant fails, motor overheats. When motor must be shut off at speed to save it (30-45 sec) you lose brakes and steering because it provides 80-90% of energy to control truck. Our 09 Esky blew through red lights exiting a hwy and barely managed a turn 4 lanes wide.
Replaced radiator, added Gates Acc, a/c & pulley kit and H2O pump. Had already replaced heater T’s. Sugg doing coolant resv also. There’s no sensor on gmt900 for low coolant level.
All Denali have heat exchanger in radiator as well as external cooler in front of a/c condenser.
Be careful if access belt or coolant fails, motor overheats. When motor must be shut off at speed to save it (30-45 sec) you lose brakes and steering because it provides 80-90% of energy to control truck. Our 09 Esky blew through red lights exiting a hwy and barely managed a turn 4 lanes wide.
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scot moore
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Ok i now think i understand that guide a little better. it was hard to tell what was going on since i have never laid eyes on this. it looks like GM uses a rigid formed line, and has a short section of rubber 5/8 hose attached to it. in the guide the hose was removed which required those straight adapters that fit on the rigid line and let you connect the hose to it, then the other end gets the 90 degree fittings that attach to the core. I was not understanding at first why some pics were a 90 degree, and some were the straight ones, and it looked like it fastened it 2 places each. i see now the shorter rubber hose was also replaced.
The reason for modifying a new section of heater hose to the factory piping for the rear heater core.... Is that the only official replacement is to replace the piping from the engine bay that comes with the new hose crimped on the end. And it usually comes in two pieces coiled up that you have to straighten, and connect them with a supply compression fitting. Sounds like a real PITA, and if I remember right it comes with the metal ac lines as well. Likely a necessity for some vehicles in the rust belt though....
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scot moore
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Ok so here is what I have done and what is still left. I bought a radiator from Amazon, they damaged it in shipping, I bought an all aluminum radiator from eBay, and it arrived in good condition and looks good, but it used larger fittings then the stock radiator. After finding the correct oil and trans adapters, I was able to put it in. There was a slight fitment issue due to more square corners and not as rounded. I also had an oil leak around the threads on the valve leaking. Also I had to tighten the oil fitting a tad more. I replaced the thermostat, and the cap, and the 2 main hoses. So far everything is good. I have the new tees, some lines and the things to fix the rear but have not done them yet. I did not replace the water pump, and I did not replace the tensioner or idler pulley as I think I did that a couple years ago when I replaced the power steering pump. Either way they all seemed fine and I did not fix them now. On to the issues and one reason I did not get all the other stuff done.
I realized my license was about to expire so I took it in and it failed safety inspection. This lead to upper and lower control arms being replaced and both front hubs, along with the swaybar and links. Struts were done a few years ago and seem to still be ok. I got everything torqued down with the suspension loaded, but I do now have a new rattle I did not have/ or notice before. I think it is the front brake pads rattling on the drives side. If I drive on an average smooth road it rattles, if I ride the breaks lightly it does not rattle. I go for the inspection in 45 mins. I am hoping to get a pass. I did order new pads and they come in tomorrow. There was lots of drama doing this with Amazon and multiple parts were delayed lost and damaged. I orders the radiator 3 times only to end up with the eBay one, the lower control arms also 3 times they either did not ship got lost, ect… everything has taken a lot longer than it should and of course with my normal bad luck, it rains constantly but only the day I get the parts, then also manages to be 100 degrees of it’s not raining, so doing it in both conditions around working, both kids needing all 4 wisdom teeth removed, me getting mine done, ect ect… it has been crazy. Things are starting to calm down a little now.
I realized my license was about to expire so I took it in and it failed safety inspection. This lead to upper and lower control arms being replaced and both front hubs, along with the swaybar and links. Struts were done a few years ago and seem to still be ok. I got everything torqued down with the suspension loaded, but I do now have a new rattle I did not have/ or notice before. I think it is the front brake pads rattling on the drives side. If I drive on an average smooth road it rattles, if I ride the breaks lightly it does not rattle. I go for the inspection in 45 mins. I am hoping to get a pass. I did order new pads and they come in tomorrow. There was lots of drama doing this with Amazon and multiple parts were delayed lost and damaged. I orders the radiator 3 times only to end up with the eBay one, the lower control arms also 3 times they either did not ship got lost, ect… everything has taken a lot longer than it should and of course with my normal bad luck, it rains constantly but only the day I get the parts, then also manages to be 100 degrees of it’s not raining, so doing it in both conditions around working, both kids needing all 4 wisdom teeth removed, me getting mine done, ect ect… it has been crazy. Things are starting to calm down a little now.
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scot moore
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Oh and how could I forget this… happened at work with an x-acto knife makes I hard to keep clean while doing this, and torquing things a little more interesting.
Sorry for lurking but I spilled my coolant as well recently (heater core tee erupted).
Since I'm making due by ordering what's not available locally from rockauto my shopping list was as follows;
Continental belt kit with both belts, tensioner and pulley
SKP water pump kit since it had both gasket, thermostat and housing at an unbeatable price
Two 3/4" x 3/4" x 5/8" T-connectors out of brass from a local mariner store (They didn't have Y so I'll see how it fits)
Also have two spare heater core connectors from *cough* aliexpress from earlier, got them last year when I noticed one of the firewall connectors looked singed. Would kill for proper metal Dorman ones but they are simply out of my reach physically. Might go for some DIY pipe fittings actually.
Getting rid of the dexcool entirely on this one, going for G12+ that's available locally at like less than 20% the cost and readily available so I picked up a can of Moly flush while I was at it.
No plans on changing hoses lol and radiator goes when it goes so my situation differs a bit. But yeah perhaps some "ultra low budget" insight since I'm high mileage at 300k.
tl;dr focused on engine related maintenance while the actual coolant is out of the picture and refilling with cheapo fluid and hope it makes sense somehow.
Since I'm making due by ordering what's not available locally from rockauto my shopping list was as follows;
Continental belt kit with both belts, tensioner and pulley
SKP water pump kit since it had both gasket, thermostat and housing at an unbeatable price
Two 3/4" x 3/4" x 5/8" T-connectors out of brass from a local mariner store (They didn't have Y so I'll see how it fits)
Also have two spare heater core connectors from *cough* aliexpress from earlier, got them last year when I noticed one of the firewall connectors looked singed. Would kill for proper metal Dorman ones but they are simply out of my reach physically. Might go for some DIY pipe fittings actually.
Getting rid of the dexcool entirely on this one, going for G12+ that's available locally at like less than 20% the cost and readily available so I picked up a can of Moly flush while I was at it.
No plans on changing hoses lol and radiator goes when it goes so my situation differs a bit. But yeah perhaps some "ultra low budget" insight since I'm high mileage at 300k.
tl;dr focused on engine related maintenance while the actual coolant is out of the picture and refilling with cheapo fluid and hope it makes sense somehow.
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