Yukon goin crazy!

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Pitterpat

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Try to Jump start the truck, If your issue is the ground cable then you may probably had bad electrical connection and your alternator would not be fully charging your battery. Use another car as a donor not a jump starter, I have had issues with jump starters before.

Your battery could have died....meaning it will not take a charge. How many miles on this battery? Buy a new battery and put it in, if this is the problem it will be cured, if it's not the problem take the new battery back.
 

NGAneer

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x2 on ground loops. Especially in the great white north, y'all get plenty of corrosion. Negative battery cable and check/clean all your body and chassis grounds. My truck came from PA and all the grounds were trashed. My truck wen't crazy last summer similar to this. Cleaned the grounds and added a couple extras and no problems since.
 
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daddyrim

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Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?
 
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daddyrim

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I also cleaned the terminals at the mega fuse as there was some corrosion. No sign of issues on the Mega fuse itself.
 
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daddyrim

daddyrim

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Video of the craziness before the 'no crank' situation began... This is post negative battery cable change.

 

NGAneer

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Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?

There's a body-chassis ground at the driver rear (to the rear of the tire infront of the bumper cover, outside the frame rail). There's another at the head of the passenger side frame rail (behind the bumper cover, around the bumper bracket I believe). The last chassis ground I can recall goes to the motor, either at the back of the head to the fire wall or the front of the head to one of the upper strut pocket.
 

kbuskill

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Battery is strong. That has been confirmed. Has been boosted etc. Lots of power, no start.

I agree that this is some type of wiring issue. To date I have changed the negative battery cable ($132 $Can from my dealer), added an extra ground to the engine as shown in the following youtube video:

Still no luck so far.

There has been some mention of other grounds to the frame under the truck, but I have yet to find any, though I'm working in my driveway. Can anyone point me to a list of additional grounds to check?

You say the battery is strong.... How was this verified???

Unless you performed a load test on the battery then it could still be the culprit. I have seen many batteries show good voltage when checking with a volt meter but fall on there face with a load applied.
 
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daddyrim

daddyrim

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Well, I have three batteries, one I was using prior to this issue, and two brand new kept on trickle charge. I've tried all three and tried boosting on all three, one of which I brought back to have tested at Car quest where I purchased it. Two are AGM batteries, whereas the old one I was using as my primary is a 2 year old lead acid battery, also from Car quest.

By load rest, Process of elimination and voltage, I'm saying it's not the battery.

Thirdly, after all the battery shenanigans, I was able to jumper across the starter relay to confirm that the truck indeed had power. So I can engage the starter by jumpering the relay.

But the underlying other issues still persist when the key is in the 'run' position.

You say the battery is strong.... How was this verified???

Unless you performed a load test on the battery then it could still be the culprit. I have seen many batteries show good voltage when checking with a volt meter but fall on there face with a load applied.
 
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daddyrim

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Update - I caved and had it towed into the local dealership. Apparently they believe the root cause is the Active suspension Control Module, which has shorted out and caused the truck to not have communication, creating the current "no start" and other issues that I've been facing. Part will be arriving next Monday at a cost of $782 $Can, plus the labour this far.

http://www.gmpartsdepot.ca/p/Chevro...25971217.html?partner=Google_148_GM_StockCode

Any feedback on this?
 

PG01

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Just something not right if it was starting before you touched neg cable and not starting after you replaced it. I think betwen the grounds, battery and the under hood fuse/power block corrosion....that's the real deal.... but im no mechanic and if thats what your dealer says....
 

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