Wheel alignment; speed shimmy; after new tires mounted

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BeenChevy

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Hey guys/gals,

When you had your alignments with 1.75" - 2.50" did they pop out the OEM retainers for camber and caster?

I went with suspensionmaxx 1.75" and figured they this would have changed the camber and caster if the strut is pushing the lower control arm down further, no?

Attached is the alignment before and after.

Also noticing a shake around 60-70mph range that i'm thinking is a mis-balance. My right rear is leaking about 1-2psi/day as well. Think that could be the crap oem rims or tire pressure sensor? What advice to resolve this - bring it back to the alignment/balance shop?

scan0009.jpg
 

Joseph Garcia

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Other folks will chime in one the caster/camber lift questions, as I have not lifted my truck and have very little knowledge in that area.

Regarding tire pressure loss, it is most likely coming from the bead area around the wheel, where it contacts the tire. You can have the tire removed from the wheel, and have the wheel buffed in the bead area with an air tool and a very fine polishing wheel, where it contacts the tire. I've had this procedure performed on several wheels, and the leakage was resolved every time.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Thanks. I'm sure they didn't pay any attention to the seal. They didn't even calibrate the sensors, although I was billed for it.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Correct. The FR & RR where swapped in the process. There's a *special not on the invoice noting "includes TPMS Relearning. Not a big deal other than it makes them look like incompetent idiots especially when the installer took a 10 minute joy ride..
 

OR VietVet

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I suspected a caster shimmy but they are even and I always say there should be a RF caster lead, like instead of 2.9 up it to 3.4, for road crown. Does it wander?
 

exp500

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I didn't do the math, but 1 degree toe seems excessive. Also noted your before/after numbers on rear changed, usually meaning tech bumped system to green light your ride. Toe and Go. At least he went in right direction for you.
 

OR VietVet

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I didn't do the math, but 1 degree toe seems excessive. Also noted your before/after numbers on rear changed, usually meaning tech bumped system to green light your ride. Toe and Go. At least he went in right direction for you.

I completely agree about the rear and may have a thrust angle problem. But the toe in is .1 degree which is fine. Not 1.0 degree.
 
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BeenChevy

BeenChevy

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Appreciate the responses. Lubing up what I can find for serviceable on the suspension. Two different ball joints, a replaced UCA and CV axle on the DS.

Still, didn't have shimmy or shake before these tires M/B even driving the with previous tires the in the 15 miles to the alignment/leveled. Braking is smooth and accel is smooth but 30mph and intermittent up to 75 (different speeds) you feel it at times.

Hub bearings have been replaced and are good. Tie rods, steering, bushings all good.

Going to bring it for a rebalance and what should I request if at all on the F/R alignment?
 

exp500

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PNWVietVet- Screwed up while posting- At least he went in right direction. Flipped before after in my head while typing. You caught it though.
 

OR VietVet

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Appreciate the responses. Lubing up what I can find for serviceable on the suspension. Two different ball joints, a replaced UCA and CV axle on the DS.

Still, didn't have shimmy or shake before these tires M/B even driving the with previous tires the in the 15 miles to the alignment/leveled. Braking is smooth and accel is smooth but 30mph and intermittent up to 75 (different speeds) you feel it at times.

Hub bearings have been replaced and are good. Tie rods, steering, bushings all good.

Going to bring it for a rebalance and what should I request if at all on the F/R alignment?


Yea, at this point I feel it is in the tires. I would also ask why the alignment tech did not give it a lead of about a 1/4 to .5 degree lead on the right side for road crown. Even is never recommended.

PNWVietVet- Screwed up while posting- At least he went in right direction. Flipped before after in my head while typing. You caught it though.


No biggee. Hell, I am old and miss those decimal points all the time.
 

cmhorns

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Your shimmy sounds very much like your wheels and tires need to be "weight matched". When you purchased the tires, it is likely that you had an inexperienced installer mount and balance them (or that didn't care). Look at them, some tires and wheels are marked with dimples, dots, or arrows. They'll usually be aligned with wheel dimple or valve stem (180* of it). I used to work in that business. Higher speeds usually tend to amplify the effects. I used to take the time to weight match each tire and wheel (lightest side of tire with heaviest side of wheel or vise versa), too the point of only having to use a quarter ounce of weight or less, sometimes not even needing wheel weights at all. We actually sent many tires back to the factory/distributor because they were too unbalanced from one side to the other and I mean ALL brands and types. I've done this on tires for little disposable cars with little-bity wheels, low riders, big jacked up trucks with huge wheels and tires, police cars, emergency vehicles, street race cars, stock cars, drag cars, and everything in between. My personal vehicles I always balanced my wheels alone (if real bad I would remove metal from one side) and would do it for others for a small fee. If you're meticulous about it as I am, you may want ask them if they'll do it for you, while agreeing that you'll leave the vehicle there for a specified length of time in order for it to be done right. (oh yeah, tell 'em you like to drive it real fast from time to time lol) There are shops out there with untrained techs that are just out to get your money or don't even know how to do it right, but I really still believe there are shops with technicians, who actually care and take pride in what they do.... you just gotta find them!

Hope this helps you get a smooth ride!
 

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