At home alignment

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Matthew Jeschke

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Is there an experienced alignment tech on here? My current measurements are at bottom of this thread. I've been installing cam locking bolts hoping to get it back into alignment with my caster camber gauge and avoid the dreaded search for an alignment tech again. After driving with this setup here it feels like the truck likes to search the road a bit and is biased a touch driver side / left.

MY ALIGNMENT (third in sequence):


My measurements (technique at bottom of thread).
Driver Camber +0.3 Caster +4.2 (haven't modified since aligned)
Passenger Camber +0.6 Caster +4.9 (installed locking cam bolts)

Didn't change anything with toe after the shop did that (+0.1 driver, -0.1 passenger per last alignment).

Specs Factory 2001 Tahoe:

Caster:
L: 3.50° ± 1.00°
R: 4.50° ± 1.00°
Cross Caster (L-R): -1.00° ± 0.50°
Camber: +0.25° ± 0.50°
Cross Camber (L-R): 0.00° ± 0.50°
Total Toe: +0.10° ± 0.20°
Steering Wheel Angle: -1.0° ± 3.5°

NOTE I have 285/70/R17 tires (factory was 265/70/R16) all else is factory dimension.

Rambling....

FIRST ALIGNMENT:

Truck drove straight as an arrow and no searching on the road before I went to the first alignment shop. Only to measurements I had were from my janky camber gauge four months prior of +1.5, passenger +0.5 driver. Then the first shop did this... I told them to stop when I saw they were adjusting things w/o putting it on the rack. As you could imagine I could BARELY drive the truck afterwards.
07152400.JPG


SECOND ALIGNMENT:
Second shop had two techs work on it. First tech said I needed all new tie rods, and pitman arm. I spent a hole two afternoons going over that stuff with a fine tooth comb and a big prybar, nothing is loose NOTHING. Even the steering gearbox is solid as a rock. Slightest touch of wheel and tires turn.

They put a second tech on it and he got it in spec... Driving it home though I felt the truck liked to search the road more than I like and if I had to say a touch biased to driver side. I have my theory as to why but would like to know what an experienced tech might have to say first...
07152401.JPG


BACKSTORY: I could write a novel on the backstory here. What a mess. I have aligned a vehicle before w/ scales, turn plates, and caster camber gauge but was 20+ years ago and ROYAL PITA. However, I bought and took a refresher course on alignments and started accumulating at home tools; specifically a Longacre camber gauge. Despite this felt best to have a shop do it but little did I know good alignment techs aren't everywhere alignment racks are found. Took at least 4 of them to align my Tahoe and in the end they told me to buy a bunch of parts which upon further inspection had no issue (I think when they get confused there is a tendency to blame the vehicle instead of trouble shooting underlying issue). The last tech did get it aligned however, part of my goal was to have them install locking cam bolts I bought. Unfortunately, both shops backed out of installing them after I committed to alignments. . I digress... When I went home I installed the locking cam bolts on the passenger side then used my caster camber gauge to get it as close as possible to their alignment.

NOTES on my camber / caster measurement technique: I marked my locking cam bolts and installed them same as the ones were I took off (or as close as I could get). Then test drove, the alignment was off. Pulled hard left. So I used my caster camber gauge to adjust the caster better (and camber started to fall in line ~ makes since). That said I don't have a PERFECTLY level surface NOR turn plates. I used motor oil under plywood and parked front tires on that. Then I proceeded to move truck around in garage as well as take measurements about 20 times each. My technique is repeatable. Garage floor was level to within 1/8" driver to passenger side. If anything I assume my caster measurement is a bit higher as I don't have a great way to measure exactly 20*. Eyeballing it one full turn left followed by one full turn right looks close for which I obtained 100% repeatable measurements, even when I moved the vehicle in the garage after going for a test drives.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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I'm learning this alignment stuff is a LOT easier than they make it out to be. Although adjustments would be a LOT quicker with a alignment rack. Measuring caster and camber is child's play otherwise.

After more test driving it seems my left hand bias is actually the steering wheel alignment! They have it off by a good 10 degrees! *ug*

Driver Camber +0.3 Caster +4.0 (installed locking cam bolts)
Passenger Camber +0.6 Caster +4.9 (installed locking cam bolts)

In a short drive seemed to drive fine, especially if I keep the wheel about 10 degrees to passenger *sigh*.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Fixed! I centered my steering wheel. Spent about an hour measuring again and again the tie rods under the truck. Passenger was 1/8" shorter than driver. I turned each tie rod one turn (passenger out, driver in). This resulted in the tie rods being the exact same length and the steering wheel centering itself. Truck feels SO much better to drive and seems to hold the road correctly. I feel a lot better having done this myself that if I have a issue I can go back and adjust the suspension accordingly now. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be (although still a bit of work).
 
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Matthew Jeschke

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Took my truck on a road trip. On a flat road (little to no road crown) I noticed my truck holds road straight as an arrow.

However, it's a bit annoying when there's some road crown. I'm now wondering which side is suppose to go heavier on caster? Driver or passenger?
 

exp500

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Took my truck on a road trip. On a flat road (little to no road crown) I noticed my truck holds road straight as an arrow.

However, it's a bit annoying when there's some road crown. I'm now wondering which side is suppose to go heavier on caster? Driver or passenger?
Passenger. Remember more caster improves straight line. Turn in usually not a problem until 6 or more.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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I got 4.2 driver 4.9 passenger. Must not be enough cross caster.

I also learned I REALLY like the torque applied so the steering wheel returns to center. I didn't realize in the past my issue with the TOO easy to turn steering (almost like floating steering wheel) was actually too little caster.
 

89Suburban

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Took my truck on a road trip. On a flat road (little to no road crown) I noticed my truck holds road straight as an arrow.

However, it's a bit annoying when there's some road crown. I'm now wondering which side is suppose to go heavier on caster? Driver or passenger?
Same here. I'm still got some homework to do with that. True flat straight as an arrow, any type of crown light pull right. When the weather cools off and I am not getting my ass kicked by everybody I plan on working on that.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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@exp500 seems about what I'm noticing. If my measurements are reasonably close then I'm slightly below 5 Degrees of caster. I may need a bit more as you mentioned. That advise seems to align with what I'm observing. I wonder how 4wd would be differ for caster?

@89Suburban I'll keep my notes here / if I fiddle more. It's a REAL pleasure to drive now (far more so than with my last shop alignment) although road crown introduces about 15 degrees of steering wheel input to fight it (bit more than I like). Depending on tilt of road it pulls left or right with my current alignment. Interstate goes STRAIGHT as an arrow. Even to point now where I have ate a sandwich or drink with no hands hahaha Pretty bad but it's awesome how much better this thing drives.
 

89Suburban

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@exp500 seems about what I'm noticing. If my measurements are reasonably close then I'm slightly below 5 Degrees of caster. I may need a bit more as you mentioned. That advise seems to align with what I'm observing. I wonder how 4wd would be differ for caster?

@89Suburban I'll keep my notes here / if I fiddle more. It's a REAL pleasure to drive now (far more so than with my last shop alignment) although road crown introduces about 15 degrees of steering wheel input to fight it (bit more than I like). Depending on tilt of road it pulls left or right with my current alignment. Interstate goes STRAIGHT as an arrow. Even to point now where I have ate a sandwich or drink with no hands hahaha Pretty bad but it's awesome how much better this thing drives.
Funny thing is a left crown it does not pull just a right crown.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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My geeky engineering brain thinking... I'm thinking maybe cross caster creates a certain yaw authority (steering responsiveness despite road crown). It maybe if you have too little caster in either wheel though there's not enough torque applied to overcome the lateral force of road crown. Do you recall what your alignment numbers were? I thought you posted them but I'm not seeing them here.
 

89Suburban

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My geeky engineering brain thinking... I'm thinking maybe cross caster creates a certain yaw authority (steering responsiveness despite road crown). It maybe if you have too little caster in either wheel though there's not enough torque applied to overcome the lateral force of road crown. Do you recall what your alignment numbers were? I thought you posted them but I'm not seeing them here.
When I installed my key loc adjusters I just set them even steven side to side, front keys full camber, rear keys full -1 click. I am way over cambered because of the 4" drop. These are the keys I use:

 

89Suburban

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Look at post #6 and #11


 

exp500

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Also, remember differences between Raised and Lowered vehicles, distance x angle. So if raised, wheelbase changes more. That depends on the how it was done but you get the idea about caster change with no other changes. Turn in more noticable on 4x4.
After as many years it has been done no-one really explains the engineering of suspension simply enough so an above average mechanic knows what question to ask.
 

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