What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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Really appreciate all the help and insight. Probably saved me a few hours of testing and failing
If you have a real wire coat hanger you can tie a string to it and feed it thru the door boot then tie the wire to it and feed it thru
there are fancier tools out there but unless your a a/v installer those tools are not common
 
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If you have a real wire coat hanger you can tie a string to it and feed it thru the door boot then tie the wire to it and feed it thru
there are fancier tools out there but unless your a a/v installer those tools are not common
I used to do home av work and have a legit stainless wire snake. Looking at the angles it won’t be fun getting through the door passage but we’re gonna try
 
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Pull the A pillar trim off and un hook it.
Was hoping for an easier one but fair enough. Old truck worried about plastic breaking. I’m doing exterior door handles, coaxial speakers, sound deadening the doors, Escalade mirrors and wrapping the switch covers this weekend so I very much appreciate all the help and answering my questions. Have saved hours cause of you guys.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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the pillars easy easy one bolt and then it's just clips, they don't break too easily, sometimes the clip comes off and stays in the body but they can be put back on the plastic easily
I would just leave the tweeters connected myself, all they are is a small speaker with a cap filter on the backside they can handle a little power just fine
 

Charlie207

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Installed new front pads and rotors.

The umbrella corp. that's owns Raybestos is apparently going under, and I really like their Element3 rotors with the coating that doesn't rust.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I had a productive day today, with the NH temp at 67 degrees. I got my rear passenger exterior door handle replaced, and kudos to YouTube! Easy peasy with no rust fighting issues. I even got to re-use the two bolts holding on the handle from the inside. I did forget to pull out the wire bundle going to the interior door controls, before re-attaching the interior trim to the door, but a coat hanger with a hook on the end was my friend.

I put WD-40 on my driver door hingers, as they were starting to squeak.

I did have one near disaster today, after finishing up my work. I'm cleaning my tools and putting them away, and I realized that I was missing my 12" stillson wrench. It suddenly dawned on me that I used it to loosen my oil catch can to empty it. The stillson wrench was still inside the engine bay, sitting on top of the main fuse box. I can only imaging what could have happened, if I drove away, and that stillson wrench started bouncing around in the engine bay. Look THREE times before closing the hood, after doing anything inside it with tools!
 

Charlie207

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I put WD-40 on my driver door hingers, as they were starting to squeak.

Speaking from decades of experience just north of you, skip the WD-40 and spray some Fluid Film (or similar) on them. WD-40 is waaay too thin, and will disappear in a week or two.

Hone Depot sells this stuff, which is thinner than Fluid Film, but 10000x stickier & better than WD.

(You can also get spray cans of Fluid Film at O'Reilly's)

1773178493785.jpeg
 
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Doubeleive

Wes
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I usually get this 7037 but the can was empty so i bought this blaster stuff at walmart this time around
7037.jpg
 

Scrappycrow

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Maybe I'm overly particular about not blasting general areas when I want to lube a specific part. For the hinges, I use Tri-Flow in the squeeze bottle with the extension tube. It goes directly where I want it, no cleanup necessary.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Maybe I'm overly particular about not blasting general areas when I want to lube a specific part. For the hinges, I use Tri-Flow in the squeeze bottle with the extension tube. It goes directly where I want it, no cleanup necessary.
ya there's no need to go willy nilly spraying grease everywhere lol, that just makes a mess
 

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