What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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I can see it vibrating already... lol

Nah, I'll use small tacks so not much weight and I'll use my super precise Harbor Freight dial indicator to check for runout. Shit will be NASA-spec.

I'm just aggravated that someone bought it out from under me so now I have to improvise, adapt and overcome to fill the hole in my heart.
 

Geotrash

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would y'all put 1600# of concret mix in the back of your NNBS? I need 28 60# bags of concrete. Otherwise I need my trailer.
Get the trailer. When we haul mulch bags from home ***** every spring, I use our cargo trailer. Plus, bags of anything always have holes through which the contents spill out and make a mess.

Edit: huh, the word d-o-p-e-y is disallowed.
 

j91z28d1

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what's the down side of the clutch pulley alt? most performance engines seem to have switched to it?
 

mikez71

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Here's another, 18k miles..

or $175 for brand new

Wonder if rockauto will accept returns...
EDIT: Rockauto has an awesome automated return setup! Costing me $8 to ship back!

I'm guessing the clutch type isn't particularly bad, just takes up more space and one more thing that can break?
Does the wiring need upgrading to handle the extra amps? Can you just add wires straight from alt to battery?
EDIT: Clutch type seems kinda cool now that I'm reading about it..
 
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Doubeleive

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Here's another, 18k miles..

or $175 for brand new

Wonder if rockauto will accept returns...
EDIT: Rockauto has an awesome automated return setup! Costing me $8 to ship back!

I'm guessing the clutch type isn't particularly bad, just takes up more space and one more thing that can break?
Does the wiring need upgrading to handle the extra amps? Can you just add wires straight from alt to battery?
EDIT: Clutch type seems kinda cool now that I'm reading about it..
pretty sure the clutch pulley uses a different belt, but I could be wrong.
don't have to change any wiring or fuses or anything, maybe upgrade the alternator to battery cable to a better cable.
 

mikez71

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pretty sure the clutch pulley uses a different belt, but I could be wrong.
don't have to change any wiring or fuses or anything, maybe upgrade the alternator to battery cable to a better cable.
Good call! Reading something about a lower belt tension too.. So it probably won't last as long with stock tension even if it did use the same belt.
 

Rocket Man

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3/4 ton in a 1/2 ton isn't recommended?
I mean, i did it…but I’ve also got a supercharger and 16” Wilwood brakes. The auto leveling worked for the most part too. I mean, it was damn close to level. :happy107: Still wouldn’t recommend it.:p Had to be careful if ya know what I mean.
 

iamdub

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what's the down side of the clutch pulley alt? most performance engines seem to have switched to it?

I got to looking at this myself. I thought it was a frequent failure point or incompatibility or was an electric clutch that required different electronics within the alternator, making it incompatible with the previous generations. Turns out, it's just mechanical and has a valid purpose. There are two types- a decoupler that works more like a ratchet and a clutch that uses a spring to control the dis- and reengagement. I actually like the idea now that I've looked in to it.
 

iamdub

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Here's another, 18k miles..

These things are selling like hot cakes. I swear someone from the forum saw Wes's link when he told me of that one last night and bought that alt. Which one of you fcukers was it?! Don't tell me some random person not on TYF just so happened to be shopping for a damned alternator at 11PM!


I'm guessing the clutch type isn't particularly bad, just takes up more space and one more thing that can break?

After researching it, I like the idea. Yeah, I think the consensus is that it can wear and fail and allow the alternator to free spin too much or all the time, reducing or stopping it from charging.


Does the wiring need upgrading to handle the extra amps? Can you just add wires straight from alt to battery?
EDIT: Clutch type seems kinda cool now that I'm reading about it..

These things need upgraded wiring in stock form. To get the full benefit of a higher amp alt, yes, you should upgrade the wiring. Hence, the "Big Three" upgrade. I've already done a "Big Five" upgrade with 1/0 gauge.
 

iamdub

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pretty sure the clutch pulley uses a different belt, but I could be wrong.

I think and hope it uses a standard size, cuz I bought one with 6,000 miles on it after they accepted my offer of $110 on their original price of $135. It has the clutch on it and I'm gonna roll with it. With my engine spinning 6,000+ RPM then the trans upshifting fairly quickly and firmly, it just makes sense. Even if it's a wear item, I should be good for a long time. The alt is essentially new and I don't drive much at all.


don't have to change any wiring or fuses or anything, maybe upgrade the alternator to battery cable to a better cable.

A circuit is only as good as it's weakest link. Upgrading just the alternator to battery positive won't do anything if the battery negative to engine (alternator grounds through case>bracket>engine) isn't upgraded equally or larger. Or, if the battery negative goes to the frame, then there needs to be an equal engine-to-frame cable, making it a Big Three.
 

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