What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, when I eventually pull the engine and trans, still debating on how high of a converter I want. Honestly probably going to stick with 1,800 to 2,000. But no more than 2500 for my application.
That's just going to hurt my mileage and whatnot and all the traffic I do daily having a real high stall.

Chris and I have the circle d 26-2800 I think? Ive put around 27k miles on it so far and its been good. I drive 100 miles everyday on my work commute. 80 of those miles are on the interstate.

 

[Sam Harris]

We have aftermarket higher stall torque converters. Not stock. It was one little misstep in the overall changes for the converter.

Nice. Wonder what mine is set to… one of these days, I’d really like to learn (and will need to purchase) an HP Tuner. I have a BBP tune, and am quite happy with it, but being able to do what I want would be so much better. As an example, after I upgraded my heads and cam, my rev limiter was changed to 6k, and it’s not acting right in the tune, though I’ve sent in 3 log files now, and need to collect another one.. it’s time consuming.. I’m hitting the limiter when using the “sport” mode, and need them to fix that. And actually, I think I should be able to go above 6k anyway.. PRC heads, with PAC .660 dual springs, Ti retainers, chrome moly pushrods, Morel 7717 lifters, stainless valves, and a TSP stage 2 truck cam: 212/218, .600”/.600”, 112 LSA, 110 ICL..

 

[pwtr02ss]

Nice. Wonder what mine is set to… one of these days, I’d really like to learn (and will need to purchase) an HP Tuner. I have a BBP tune, and am quite happy with it, but being able to do what I want would be so much better. As an example, after I upgraded my heads and cam, my rev limiter was changed to 6k, and it’s not acting right in the tune, though I’ve sent in 3 log files now, and need to collect another one.. it’s time consuming.. I’m hitting the limiter when using the “sport” mode, and need them to fix that. And actually, I think I should be able to go above 6k anyway.. PRC heads, with PAC .660 dual springs, Ti retainers, chrome moly pushrods, Morel 7717 lifters, stainless valves, and a TSP stage 2 truck cam: 212/218, .600”/.600”, 112 LSA, 110 ICL..

I'm still a complete newb. I just had ALOT of help from someone very nice and whom I'll owe hand jiggles to for life. Gen 3 stuff is quite a bit different than Gen 4. If you decide to get HPT someday, the trans settings and fuel cut on your gen are alot easier to understand.

I had a pretty good handle on the ben 3 stuff (transmission tuning especially) back in 2011 when I first got HPT. Then I stopped messing with it and mostly forgot everything.

 

[j91z28d1]

I think and hope it uses a standard size, cuz I bought one with 6,000 miles on it after they accepted my offer of $110 on their original price of $135. It has the clutch on it and I'm gonna roll with it. With my engine spinning 6,000+ RPM then the trans upshifting fairly quickly and firmly, it just makes sense. Even if it's a wear item, I should be good for a long time. The alt is essentially new and I don't drive much at all.




A circuit is only as good as it's weakest link. Upgrading just the alternator to battery positive won't do anything if the battery negative to engine (alternator grounds through case>bracket>engine) isn't upgraded equally or larger. Or, if the battery negative goes to the frame, then there needs to be an equal engine-to-frame cable, making it a Big Three.

what are you going to do with the old one. if it's the small 2 wire plug one and still works. depending on how horrible shipping is, I might buy it from you for a project I'm playing with in hptuners.

if you're interested in selling it, let me know.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I'm still a complete newb. I just had ALOT of help from someone very nice and whom I'll owe hand jiggles to for life. Gen 3 stuff is quite a bit different than Gen 4. If you decide to get HPT someday, the trans settings and fuel cut on your gen are alot easier to understand.

I had a pretty good handle on the ben 3 stuff (transmission tuning especially) back in 2011 when I first got HPT. Then I stopped messing with it and mostly forgot everything.

I give 2 thumbs up for "Hand Jiggles For Life". Can't "Beat That" lol.

 

[iamdub]

I guess you will let us know

You know it!

 

[iamdub]

That only made my converter feel "tighter". Drivability was much improved.

I don't know what Mike did when he tuned it. But it went from feeling super loose to damned-near stock after his second round of changes. I'm anxious to actually investigate but have a pile of priorities ahead of even going in the shop.

 

[iamdub]

There are actually so many settings, you can have it hold really tight but still have it engaged and disengage smoothly.

Yeah? How does one make the TCC engage smoothly? I thought that was the point of it being a PWM-controlled style. Maybe it's the nature of the beast or maybe I got a faulty converter. But, mine has always locked up abruptly. It's like cruising at a steady speed in a car with a manual trans while riding the clutch just enough to have it slip and raise RPM, then suddenly dumping it. Not violent, but much faster and more harsh than I think it should. I see all kinds of settings for WHEN the TCC engages, but nothing for adjusting HOW it engages.

 

[iamdub]

Chris and I have the circle d 26-2800 I think? Ive put around 27k miles on it so far and its been good. I drive 100 miles everyday on my work commute. 80 of those miles are on the interstate.

Yup. About 22.5K on mine. Never a problem in all my local hooning and with towing 1,000 lbs from Tampa and a car from the Westbank of New Orleans.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah? How does one make the TCC engage smoothly? I thought that was the point of it being a PWM-controlled style. Maybe it's the nature of the beast or maybe I got a faulty converter. But, mine has always locked up abruptly. It's like cruising at a steady speed in a car with a manual trans while riding the clutch just enough to have it slip and raise RPM, then suddenly dumping it. Not violent, but much faster and more harsh than I think it should. I see all kinds of settings for WHEN the TCC engages, but nothing for adjusting HOW it engages.

Mine has a noticeable lock up but it's not violent. Just a solid "lock". I'm used to that from driving my Camaro for years though

 

[iamdub]

Mine has a noticeable lock up but it's not violent. Just a solid "lock". I'm used to that from driving my Camaro for years though

I could take a video, but all you'd see is the tach sharply drop. Maybe even hear the engine's hum change. Can't convey the sudden "bog" feeling when it locks.

 

[Doubeleive]

New 140mph blades and a new rear passenger window switch

 

[mikez71]

Yeah? How does one make the TCC engage smoothly?

I see an "apply ramp" map that has an axis for slip rpms and torque.. values from 1-1000.. no idea how that works.. guessing 1000 is minimum pressure and 1 is full pressure looking at the map

 

[iamdub]

what are you going to do with the old one. if it's the small 2 wire plug one and still works. depending on how horrible shipping is, I might buy it from you for a project I'm playing with in hptuners.

It's whatever is stock on an '08 LMG in an LTZ. It's the DR44 (145A). I know it's a direct-fit upgrade on the S-series vehicles! I would say that I'd like to keep it as a backup. But, it'd likely sit on a shelf and eventually get scrapped. It seems to work fine although I can't verify its output and I'm 100% sure my lights dimming is due to my aged and semi-abused battery. I'm just wanting a fresh alt and like to upgrade when I replace stuff. What are you doing in HPT that would warrant having this alt.?

if you're interested in selling it, let me know.

I wouldn't sell it. I've had fellow TYF brethren contribute to my experiments so I'm happy for the opportunity to pay it forward. Just cover shipping and it's yours. But, lemme get my new one installed first. I might need the pulley from it if the new one won't work. PM me.

 

[iamdub]

I see an "apply ramp" map that has an axis for slip rpms and torque.. values from 1-1000.. no idea how that works.. guessing 1000 is minimum pressure and 1 is full pressure looking at the map
View attachment 398389

How did I miss that?! Lemme grab my laptop...

 

[j91z28d1]

It's whatever is stock on an '08 LMG in an LTZ. It's the DR44 (145A). I know it's a direct-fit upgrade on the S-series vehicles! I would say that I'd like to keep it as a backup. But, it'd likely sit on a shelf and eventually get scrapped. It seems to work fine although I can't verify its output and I'm 100% sure my lights dimming is due to my aged and semi-abused battery. I'm just wanting a fresh alt and like to upgrade when I replace stuff. What are you doing in HPT that would warrant having this alt.?



I wouldn't sell it. I've had fellow TYF brethren contribute to my experiments so I'm happy for the opportunity to pay it forward. Just cover shipping and it's yours. But, lemme get my new one installed first. I might need the pulley from it if the new one won't work. PM me.

well it's not for my yukon, since that doesn't have a alternator at all, so I'd feel better tossing you something atleast. but I also understand keeping one of a shelf and I should probably just do what you did and pick up a 200amp off ebay too. if it doesn't work I'm sure I can sell it on here for about what I paid.


I'm going to try and use it on a 08 c6 corvette. the ones corvettes use are large case oddball. the ecm doesn't send a pwm signal to it to control voltage, just a on off trigger wire. the stock ones charge badly at idle and anything aftermarket is super expensive.

I have an adapter from ict, if that I hope I can use to make it fit, I've found a drop down box in hptuners for alt control. I enabled that and put some random numbers in it and got a pwm signal out on my little pocket o scope. there's a thread on ls1 tech for the camaro guys about what hz to send into a 2 wire to get what output voltage. if I can get the smaller body alt to physically fit, and find the right numbers to put into hp to target 13.8v. it would be a cost effective option for a 200amp alt like you just got off eBay without having to buy a 600 plus aftermarket alt just to get the extra 20 or so amps needed at idle and not explode at high rpm from a smaller pulley. which is what I have now, just a touch over driven and idled up a 100rpm, but it's still iffy on 100deg days idling in traffic with max ac.

so yeah, it's a project I put on the back burner at the end of last summer but summer is about to hit hard here soon again.

 

[j91z28d1]

New 140mph blades and a new rear passenger window switch
View attachment 398388

it's amazing how much they want for wipers these days. I walked in once to get some on the ride home on my car that has 24in wipers. I was in shock when 2 would be 50$. they said it's a dollar an inch these days. I drove home with bad wipers lol.

if you have the kind you can pop off the end, like most oem blades. I've found you can still buy the rubber itself super cheap off ebay. like 3 sets for 5$ shipped. just take a month to ship, so buy like 20$ a year worth. they look identical to the rubber in auto parts store blades. work great and I find myself swapping them much more often because of the price. so they work better for me lol. I have 4 cars to keep blades fresh on and tx sun to eat them up in no time and then random violent storms out of nowhere to drive thru.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I could take a video, but all you'd see is the tach sharply drop. Maybe even hear the engine's hum change. Can't convey the sudden "bog" feeling when it locks.

That's how they work, at least both of mine. It's not violent in the way of slamming, it's just sudden lock and unlock. As per a super smart man meats, aftermarket toque converters don't like to ramp in the lock up. They need to either lock or unlock. None of the easing into it

 

[pwtr02ss]

it's amazing how much they want for wipers these days. I walked in once to get some on the ride home on my car that has 24in wipers. I was in shock when 2 would be 50$. they said it's a dollar an inch these days. I drove home with bad wipers lol.

if you have the kind you can pop off the end, like most oem blades. I've found you can still buy the rubber itself super cheap off ebay. like 3 sets for 5$ shipped. just take a month to ship, so buy like 20$ a year worth. they look identical to the rubber in auto parts store blades. work great and I find myself swapping them much more often because of the price. so they work better for me lol. I have 4 cars to keep blades fresh on and tx sun to eat them up in no time and then random violent storms out of nowhere to drive thru.

Amazon also has them as well.

For the record, I've only replaced the rubber part on Stephs accord and my Yukon with oem pieces since they were new. They aren't more than $20 for both sides and the oem "wiper" assembly is nicer than the replacement parts. The Honda is cheaper than gm but that's to be expected

 

[iamdub]

well it's not for my yukon, since that doesn't have a alternator at all, so I'd feel better tossing you something atleast. but I also understand keeping one of a shelf and I should probably just do what you did and pick up a 200amp off ebay too. if it doesn't work I'm sure I can sell it on here for about what I paid.


I'm going to try and use it on a 08 c6 corvette. the ones corvettes use are large case oddball. the ecm doesn't send a pwm signal to it to control voltage, just a on off trigger wire. the stock ones charge badly at idle and anything aftermarket is super expensive.

I have an adapter from ict, if that I hope I can use to make it fit, I've found a drop down box in hptuners for alt control. I enabled that and put some random numbers in it and got a pwm signal out on my little pocket o scope. there's a thread on ls1 tech for the camaro guys about what hz to send into a 2 wire to get what output voltage. if I can get the smaller body alt to physically fit, and find the right numbers to put into hp to target 13.8v. it would be a cost effective option for a 200amp alt like you just got off eBay without having to buy a 600 plus aftermarket alt just to get the extra 20 or so amps needed at idle and not explode at high rpm from a smaller pulley. which is what I have now, just a touch over driven and idled up a 100rpm, but it's still iffy on 100deg days idling in traffic with max ac.

so yeah, it's a project I put on the back burner at the end of last summer but summer is about to hit hard here soon again.

I dig it! I'm all for experimenting and finding cost-effective ways, especially with OE parts. My new alt should be in tomorrow and I plan to install it this weekend. I don't see how I wouldn't be able to if it's a direct plug-and-play swap. That's about a 30-minute project including taking time to stare at it and wonder if I should paint it.