What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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Oil on dipstick just looks like oil, and there's no gunk under the filler cap.

So you're saying that coolant can't make it's way into a cylinder and be burned away without evidence in the oil?
if the filler cap looks clean then it's pretty unlikely it's going into the engine.
and no controls inside the vehicle would have any affect on the flow of coolant to the rear, the only way to stop coolant flow to the rear would be to clamp the heater hose lines shut.
there are no control valves or anything like that in the engine cooling system other than the thermostat attached to the water pump.
to be clear all the controls inside the vehicle do is control air flow
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Oil on dipstick just looks like oil, and there's no gunk under the filler cap.

So you're saying that coolant can't make it's way into a cylinder and be burned away without evidence in the oil?
if the coolant was being burnt off in the engine you would likely see some indication of it under the filler cap, oil filler tube or dipstick.
if it was a tiny tiny bit and it just started happening you might not see it right away but eventually you would, but that is what the block test is for or send in a oil sample to blackstone labs
 

992dr

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Could be the pump at the station. Use a different station, or different pump, next time

I've never really had a problem filling, but one time about a year ago I did. Kept shutting off and I could hear gas filling into the neck just before it did. Haven't had a problem since.
You were absolutely right, it was the pump.
Thanks for that info, I do appreciate it
 

Rocket Man

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Added more coolant. Seems to be a much more frequent thing when it's cold. Since there is no visible leak in the front, could there be any other way to lose coolant while driving other than a head gasket?

I'm kind of dumb to the rear-heater system, so is it possible that coolant is escaping from that? How would I check?

Would I be able to fire up the truck, engage "REAR" on the HVAC controls, and then waddle my ass under the truck to look for drips?
There are heater hoses going to the rear, with the same type of plastic quick connects as at the firewall. Climb under, run the rear heat, and have a look. There’s also a rear heater core but I believe that would leak inside.
 

the_tool_man

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I swapped out my heated Denali wood wheel for an all leather one for an LTZ a few years ago when new one's were still available. It feels so much nicer. It's thicker also. It has all the same buttons that my OE Denali wheel had.
A little late to the conversation. But I did the same. It's way back in this thread somewhere around 6/2019. The LTZ Suburban wheel is SO much better. The GM part number for an Ebony one is 22947767. It's NLA from GM, unfortunately. But you might find a good one on eBay.
 

iamdub

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Installed the Nolathane sway bars but couldn't quite finish. They thiccc. Need longer bolts for the rear then set it down to tighten all the end links.


IMG_E3895.JPG



IMG_E3897.JPG
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Topped her up with winter air.
Morning cold pressures were getting into the 20's. I try to run 35-40.
She was being Finicky for the pic, but they were even.
30secs later with the key off, 2 more tires dropped. lol
 

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Charlie207

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Installed the Nolathane sway bars but couldn't quite finish. They thiccc. Need longer bolts for the rear then set it down to tighten all the end links.


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What's it like not having roads sprayed with brine, or covered with salt?
 

Denaliz

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Finally took action on getting new shoes- 24” Vossen HF6-1 in gunmetal grey and a Belltech 2/3 drop kit for my Denali. I have not seen a single NNBS with HF6-1 wheels just many newer ones.

Feel like I got a crazy good deal on the Vossens as they were 850 a wheel everywhere else I looked.

It’s the start of an upcoming cam/SC build that I’m finalizing package details on this week.
 

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89Suburban

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Installed the Nolathane sway bars but couldn't quite finish. They thiccc. Need longer bolts for the rear then set it down to tighten all the end links.


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Fkn beautiful under there. Can I bring my shit box down there and tinker on it at your place with you on yo lift?
 

indy

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Left and Right Mirror fold motors and gears from gruvenparts.com
Left Rearview Mirror Actuator pn 15874997 (my Yukon build date is 1/2006 2 pigtails...post 4/2006 is single pigtail gen2)
Front and Rear Moog sway bar bushing and arms
Replace faded 3rd tail light spoiler with great used Escalade spoiler
Updated to GM Silverado 2021 option 18" rims
 

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StrkAliteN

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Since so many great minds here .....

I am looking for the best place to purchase a new Motorcycle battery for my HD.
I buy all my batteries at Costco, but they do not sell motorcycle batteries.

Figured I would toss it out here as I am sure some of you also own bikes.

thank you in advance
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Since so many great minds here .....

I am looking for the best place to purchase a new Motorcycle battery for my HD.
I buy all my batteries at Costco, but they do not sell motorcycle batteries.

Figured I would toss it out here as I am sure some of you also own bikes.

thank you in advance
I would look at batteries plus, might be a little cheaper than getting reamed by a cycle shop
 

Rocket Man

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Since so many great minds here .....

I am looking for the best place to purchase a new Motorcycle battery for my HD.
I buy all my batteries at Costco, but they do not sell motorcycle batteries.

Figured I would toss it out here as I am sure some of you also own bikes.

thank you in advance
I bought my last one from Interstate.
 

iamdub

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Installed 1/2" longer bolts and tightened the end links with the suspension settled. Also drained the air outta the helper bags. They had 7psi in 'em. I keep a few psi to help the softer "lowering springs". Without that, it'll wag too much if I jiggled the wheel. 7-9psi keeps it stable and planted. Went for a ~20 minute drive for groceries. I have some tools and stuff in the back for some odd jobs I'm doing, so I couldn't really huck it around any corners. I jiggled the steering wheel over 4-5 instances and it felt great! Flat and stable! So I don't need to keep any pressure in the bags now. As a bonus, this dropped it exactly 1/4" more in the rear. Also, it's ever-so-slightly softer on the bumps. I just need to get the front to match and it'd ride like a Cadillac but handle great and not have any dangerous floating.

When testing, I heard a bumping but thought it was something I had in the cargo hold knocking around. On the way home, it dawned on me that I never fully tightened those new end link bolts. They were close, but not fully tightened and had enough slack for the washers to jiggle. I tightened them then saw where sound was coming from. The RH side of the bar is hitting the frame side panhard mount. I really don't have much room to shift it even further to the right and that'd require custom end links. It's not an axle off-centering issue. Actually, the axle is slightly off center in the direction that is helping this interference. The simple solution is to trim the panhard mount. I'd pie cut the two vertical walls and roll the interfering back wall inward, more closely following the bushing of the panhard bar.

img_3917-jpg.jpg



The passenger side showing the bar hitting the panhard mount:

img_e3918-jpg.jpg



My proposed fix. Cut out the areas marked in red, roll that back piece in to close the gap then weld it together:

img_e3919-jpg.jpg
 

Fubar0715

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not particularity it just tells me if everything is working right, I noticed before when the cat's went bad that it really tanked i was getting like 7-8
if I let off the pedal it would go up but that's a hard habit to break I have had a heavy foot my entire life
even as a kid I used to put double batterys in toys so they would go faster lol
So, you are the model for "Tim, the tool man, Taylor" uhhh, uhhh, more power!!!!!!
 

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