What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[tungsten]

Highly doubt it, it broke at 1ft of force, i have a feeling someone put a ****** gasket and ****** bolts.

Hopefully i can get it out myself easy enough without having to drop tranny to then drop oil pan lol…

Yeah no doubt someone has played with it,maybe Ill buy new bolts when I do mine.

 

[George B]

If I couldn't get it loose with the sledge I was going to use the air hammer, but it was late and would've waited till today to do it. That thing's loud.


Can't, these are the alignment cam bolts that are flat along one edge and can only turn so far due to the pin sticking through the slot in the plate

EDIT: Oops, thought you were talking about my upper control arm bolt. My bad

Yeah, you have bigger problems.

 

[m1dn]

Welp, got the driveshaft detached and moved slightly out of the way for extra room.
The bolt inside the oil block off is busted inside, nothing sticking out.

The bolts are M6.

Guess it's time to order angle drill and extractor set small enough to try and break the M6 bolt out.
Otherwise i'll have to drill the hole bigger and put a helicoil or something, any ideas welcome!

Don't have a welder unfortunately, seems like welding a nut there would've been ideal

P.S Looked around and if i break it for good, i'll have to remove transfer case to get the oil pan out, so much fun lol

 

[Geotrash]

Welp, got the driveshaft detached and moved slightly out of the way for extra room.
The bolt inside the oil block off is busted inside, nothing sticking out.

The bolts are M6.

Guess it's time to order angle drill and extractor set small enough to try and break the M6 bolt out.
Otherwise i'll have to drill the hole bigger and put a helicoil or something, any ideas welcome!

Don't have a welder unfortunately, seems like welding a nut there would've been ideal

P.S Looked around and if i break it for good, i'll have to remove transfer case to get the oil pan out, so much fun lol

View attachment 384136

The holes in the block are weak as well because the block is aluminum, so they will barely hold the specified torque. I'm surprised anyone got that bolt tight enough to break, frankly. I had to use a helicoil in my 2012. Best bet is an EZ-out to get the bolt out but gotta watch that the drill bit stays in the steel bolt, otherwise it's gonna be a mess real quick.

 

[Fless]

Pick up a few small left-hand drills, too. It might back out while you're drilling the bolt. And you might have enough room to remove that driveshaft from the transfer case to give you some more access.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Welp, got the driveshaft detached and moved slightly out of the way for extra room.
The bolt inside the oil block off is busted inside, nothing sticking out.

The bolts are M6.

Guess it's time to order angle drill and extractor set small enough to try and break the M6 bolt out.
Otherwise i'll have to drill the hole bigger and put a helicoil or something, any ideas welcome!

Don't have a welder unfortunately, seems like welding a nut there would've been ideal

P.S Looked around and if i break it for good, i'll have to remove transfer case to get the oil pan out, so much fun lol

View attachment 384136

I'd think the easiest would be to find a friend that has a welder you could borrow and weld a nut to it, or go buy a low cost ($150) one from Harbor Freight. It may come in handy in the furure

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Ugh! Sorry man, I’m rooting for you!!!

 

[13UpInSmoke]

Well I screwed up yesterday morning.

I usually back into the driveway but when coming back from taking my daughter to school I pulled in due to it being trash day and I had my cans at the end of the driveway on the left and my neighbor had his on the right between our driveways and it was just easier (I had 3 containers and neighbor had 3, trash, recycles, yard waste).

A bit later when I went to leave for work the trash truck was there emptying the cans so I sat there for a minute or two waiting while watching in the rear view mirror. The wife's Acadia was parked behind me to my left and I actually forgot that she was off work (she's usually already at work) so when backing up I started to move to the middle of the driveway to avoid the trash cans and hit the Acadia.

The Yukon's driver rear panel just behind wheel well.....

View attachment 383859

Acadia passenger rear at same area....

View attachment 383860

It's mostly just paint damage, but there is a small golf ball sized dent on both vehicles. Right behind the wheel well on the Yukon and right on the wheel well lip on the Acadia.

You can try a damp magic eraser with light pressure to get rid of the paint scuffs

 

[justchecking]

Welp, got the driveshaft detached and moved slightly out of the way for extra room.
The bolt inside the oil block off is busted inside, nothing sticking out.

The bolts are M6.

Guess it's time to order angle drill and extractor set small enough to try and break the M6 bolt out.
Otherwise i'll have to drill the hole bigger and put a helicoil or something, any ideas welcome!

Don't have a welder unfortunately, seems like welding a nut there would've been ideal

P.S Looked around and if i break it for good, i'll have to remove transfer case to get the oil pan out, so much fun lol

View attachment 384136

I've done this many times on aluminum boat components. Take a dremel tool with one of the small cut off wheels and reach up there and grind a slot in the end of the broken off bolt for a flat tip screw driver. You mentioned the bolt wasn't tight when it broke off so it should turn right out. You may end up cutting a bit of a slot in the aluminum too but that won't hurt anything. Good luck!

 

[pwtr02ss]

You can try a damp magic eraser with light pressure to get rid of the paint scuffs

My buddy casey's ex wife washed the hood of his black Yukon with a magic eraser. Unless you want a bunch of scratches in the paint, don't use a magic eraser on paint...

 

[89Suburban]

I've done this many times on aluminum boat components. Take a dremel tool with one of the small cut off wheels and reach up there and grind a slot in the end of the broken off bolt for a flat tip screw driver. You mentioned the bolt wasn't tight when it broke off so it should turn right out. You may end up cutting a bit of a slot in the aluminum too but that won't hurt anything. Good luck!

GREAT idea!!!!!!!

 

[tungsten]

Heat the area around the hole not the bolt , then it should come with any of the above ideas.

 

[Charlie207]

Four new Husky mudflaps. Had to trim the inner corners of the front mudflaps to clear the 33" tires while turning, but the cutting was minimal.

 

[George B]

I've done this many times on aluminum boat components. Take a dremel tool with one of the small cut off wheels and reach up there and grind a slot in the end of the broken off bolt for a flat tip screw driver. You mentioned the bolt wasn't tight when it broke off so it should turn right out. You may end up cutting a bit of a slot in the aluminum too but that won't hurt anything. Good luck!

Just gotta make sure not to accidentally mess up the sealing surface.

 

[Doubeleive]

I would drill it and use a bolt extractor, presuming you have enough room, doesn't look like there is anything to "weld" to

 

[m1dn]

I've done this many times on aluminum boat components. Take a dremel tool with one of the small cut off wheels and reach up there and grind a slot in the end of the broken off bolt for a flat tip screw driver. You mentioned the bolt wasn't tight when it broke off so it should turn right out. You may end up cutting a bit of a slot in the aluminum too but that won't hurt anything. Good luck!

I’m afraid it will cut into the sealing surface as it’s too close, although if that happens i could probably grind it down a little, the whole surface/thing has no meaning but to block off the oil with no cooler liner, too bad gm didnt just weld it together!

Edit: Here’s the gasket, wonder if i cut slightly into the side to cut the bolt, will this result in oil leaking afterwards?

 

[89Suburban]

I’m afraid it will cut into the sealing surface as it’s too close, although if that happens i could probably grind it down a little, the whole surface/thing has no meaning but to block off the oil with no cooler liner, too bad gm didnt just weld it together!

Edit: Here’s the gasket, wonder if i cut slightly into the side to cut the bolt, will this result in oil leaking afterwards?

IMHO would think you should be fine, the important sealing surface is around the pressure ports. You can put a dab of high temp RTV in the groove if you are worried about sealing the threaded hole from corrosion. You can also grind the dremel cutting wheel down quite a bit before hand to shrink the diameter of it and make the foot print of the cut smaller.

 

[89Suburban]

Four new Husky mudflaps. Had to trim the inner corners of the front mudflaps to clear the 33" tires while turning, but the cutting was minimal.

View attachment 384173

You like them?

 

[gooffeyguy]

The Denali seems to be driving fine after the entire front suspension/steering replacement. It's back to feeling tight and not as loose or clunky over bumps.

When I re-assembled the upper control arm/alignment cam bolts I not only cleaned up the chassis mounting points but also sprayed the bolts with Fluid Film hoping to help keep them from rusting/binding to the bushing sleeves, especially the front most bolts.

I marked the alignment tabs and measured the tie rods before disassembly, and put everything back as close as I could. It seems to drive/steer OK, but I plan on having the alignment checked.

Where's a good, reasonably priced place to have that done? The local shop two blocks from me wants like $225 to do an alignment. Seems pretty high.

 

[Geotrash]

The Denali seems to be driving fine after the entire front suspension/steering replacement. It's back to feeling tight and not as loose or clunky over bumps.

When I re-assembled the upper control arm/alignment cam bolts I not only cleaned up the chassis mounting points but also sprayed the bolts with Fluid Film hoping to help keep them from rusting/binding to the bushing sleeves, especially the front most bolts.

I marked the alignment tabs and measured the tie rods before disassembly, and put everything back as close as I could. It seems to drive/steer OK, but I plan on having the alignment checked.

Where's a good, reasonably priced place to have that done? The local shop two blocks from me wants like $225 to do an alignment. Seems pretty high.

I always take mine to Firestone. They have a 1-time price and a lifetime price. The lifetime price at the one near me when I was last there a few weeks ago was $199 after replacing my steering rack. I didn't have to pay because I already had the lifetime alignment on the truck I took there from when I did the front suspension back in 2019.