Getting some strange wheel noises from the rear brakes and my parking brake is getting soft pedal so I’ll be investigating that sheet this afternoon. Just in time for my due of inspection this month too. Yay.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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gooffeyguy
Tom
I just figured it out. I couldn't get the pink part pressed or pulled out. After posting the pic I thought about sticking a small screwdriver in from the bottom and pushing the pink part up. Once I did that I squeezed it in and pulled the plug out
that red tab is a locking tab you will find them all over whenever you see those they have to be pulled up first to release the tab. Some are grey or light grey color instead of red.
and SRS ones are yellow.
gooffeyguy
Tom
MFer, I knew it was going too smoothly.
Damn forward upper control arm bolt snapped when taking it off
Damn forward upper control arm bolt snapped when taking it off
Trip to hardware store, grade 8 or better.
gooffeyguy
Tom
It's the upper alignment cam bolt. Local parts store has them in stock. Gonna buy 4, lol
gooffeyguy
Tom
I never had one do that but mine always are frozen in the bushings and have to be cut out. If that's the worse of your problems you will be fine. Never had a problem with the LCA bolts. Just the uppers. I always plan on having new ones ready if I go tearing into those uppers. Otherwise you seem to be moving along quite nicely! Thanks for sharing!
gooffeyguy
Tom
Well got the driver's side done after running out and picking up a couple of those cam bolts.
Started on passenger side and decided to try what I saw on YouTube where you keep the brake rotor, caliper, and hub all assembled and just undo the lower control arm bolts and let it all hang from the upper.
Started by unbolting and removing the strut, then the CV shaft from both ends so it can come out after the lower control arm bolts are removed and the control arm is hanging free by the ball joint. Then while it's hanging unbolting the lower ball joint and swapping in the new lower control arm.... But the lower control arms were shipped with the grease fitting installed and this side had it broken off, so I spent some time using an easy out to get it out and put in a new one.
Then put a jack under the new control arm to help support it when I remove the upper arm, but haven't got to that point yet. Spent a lot of time trying to get the front control arm cam bolt out. Got the nut off but the bolt seems to be rusted to the bushing sleeve and doesn't want to come out. Rear bolt comes out fine.
Sprayed the entire area with PB Blaster and also removed the wheel well liner so I can get my 3lb hand sledge in there to whack at the bolt. Alternating between hammering it and wrenching on the head end of the bolt back and forth I got it out after dicking with it for about an hour. Glad I picked up an extra cam bolt.
After that I was done for the night. Hopefully I'll get it finished up tomorrow.
You got real lucky on that one. When I tried beating mine out the stud of the bolt started to mushroom on me.
Did you break the lower ball joint loose before or after unbolting it from the frame? I did it after and it was a real bastard to break it loose with everything hanging loose.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I threaded the nut back onto the end of the stud so they were both flush with each other before beating on it. Figured it would give more surface for the sledge to hit and keep it from mushrooming.
As for the lower arm, I did the inner bolts first then the ball joint bolt while hanging. It probably would've been easier to do it in reverse. It is a bit awkward when it's hanging. I used my Ridgid cordless 1/2" Impact wrench so it did make it easier.
“What did you break today on your gmt900 while trying to fix something else?”
Well, i managed to break the bolt on oil cooler block off in a hard to reach area!
Was going to do a bunch of things this morning, transfer case fluid, both diffs and oil cooler block off gasket that’s leaking.
Changed transfer case fluid first with pipe for pump falling off into the bucket with ATF fluid, so i had to hack something else together to fill it.
Then tried taking off front diff fill plug, no budge, stuck for good, soaked it in rust breaker and was going to come back at it later.
So then i take off oil cooler block off where both bolts somehow move surprisingly easy…
Change the gasket, start screwing back in and maybe at 1ft pound of force the screw goes pop.
So tomorrow ill be figuring out if the bolt broke inside completely and see how i can get it out.
If i drop the driveshaft, there might enough room for angle drill, otherwise no idea
Well, i managed to break the bolt on oil cooler block off in a hard to reach area!
Was going to do a bunch of things this morning, transfer case fluid, both diffs and oil cooler block off gasket that’s leaking.
Changed transfer case fluid first with pipe for pump falling off into the bucket with ATF fluid, so i had to hack something else together to fill it.
Then tried taking off front diff fill plug, no budge, stuck for good, soaked it in rust breaker and was going to come back at it later.
So then i take off oil cooler block off where both bolts somehow move surprisingly easy…
Change the gasket, start screwing back in and maybe at 1ft pound of force the screw goes pop.
So tomorrow ill be figuring out if the bolt broke inside completely and see how i can get it out.
If i drop the driveshaft, there might enough room for angle drill, otherwise no idea
If you have an air hammer, might try using it to try and get the bolt to break free.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
It probably isn’t seized in the threads so if any of the bolt is protruding from the hole you can likely thread it out easily.
gooffeyguy
Tom
If I couldn't get it loose with the sledge I was going to use the air hammer, but it was late and would've waited till today to do it. That thing's loud.
Can't, these are the alignment cam bolts that are flat along one edge and can only turn so far due to the pin sticking through the slot in the plate
EDIT: Oops, thought you were talking about my upper control arm bolt. My bad
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Definitely isnt! I was screwing it back in haha.
We will see tomorrow, I’ll play overnight to beer gods it sticks out, otherwise dropping driveshaft and getting the angle drill plus extraction set
tungsten
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This was the OE bolt? At least you know its not tight.
Highly doubt it, it broke at 1ft of force, i have a feeling someone put a ****** gasket and ****** bolts.
Hopefully i can get it out myself easy enough without having to drop tranny to then drop oil pan lol…
