What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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How did that go for ya btw? You did it yourself?
I was going to, but it's been rainy on and off around here. I removed the wheel and dropped it off at a shop 3 blocks from my house (they do all my inspections and repairs I don't feel like doing, lol) along with a new ACDelco/Schrader Electronics sensor I bought through Amazon for $11 and they installed it for $25
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Also, I've used a bit over a quart of oil in 2500 miles... Might just start doing 2500 mi changes at least until I yank the motor and hone the cylinders and slap some new rings in it.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Tried the upper engine soak yet just in case it's a stuck ring(s)? Compression test?
so, i did comp and leak down when i got it, it was decent.
used 1qt in 5,000mi
now 55k later, its more than double the consumption...not a lot in the catch can either.
but when the blower goes on, im sure itll only get worse and be leaking horsepowers.
i might do another comp and leakdown before i yank it(doing a cam/springs, vvt delete, and dod delete) just for curiosity.
 
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so, i did comp and leak down when i got it, it was decent.
used 1qt in 5,000mi
now 55k later, its more than double the consumption...not a lot in the catch can either.
but when the blower goes on, im sure itll only get worse and be leaking horsepowers.
i might do another comp and leakdown before i yank it(doing a cam/springs, vvt delete, and dod delete) just for curiosity.
You can always run a vac pump and adjustable relief valve on it, so the crankcase always sees about 10" vacuum.

I do that with my blown mustang. The other side of the vac pump empties into a catch can with a breather at the top.
 

Doug118

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Finally got rid of the ugly Chevy wing
E3A8C4FB-E33C-49B6-A63D-B4948F1A170B.jpeg
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Finally washed it on the way into work real quick.

Anybody have a clue why GM would have programmed these things to turn the AC off when engine braking in first gear?
That's pretty damn annoying when it's 100° outside.
 

lowh07

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Does anyone know the factory underhead length for the rear wheel studs? I’m finding between 2.281” and 2.575”. I’d guess it’s the shorter one. I can pull the wheel and rotor off to check but if someone knows or has one laying around... been crazy sick lately and won’t be able to mess with it for a while
 

gpracer1

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Finally washed it on the way into work real quick.

Anybody have a clue why GM would have programmed these things to turn the AC off when engine braking in first gear?
That's pretty damn annoying when it's 100° outside.
Do you mean turn the entire AC system off, or just the compressor off for a moment?
My guess is that high rpms are sucking down the low side causing it to cycle off. If you mean it shuts if off completely then I would assume for compressor protection due to high rpms?
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Do you mean turn the entire AC system off, or just the compressor off for a moment?
My guess is that high rpms are sucking down the low side causing it to cycle off. If you mean it shuts if off completely then I would assume for compressor protection due to high rpms?
Sorry, Compressor.
Doesn't do it at the top of 2nd though.
 

iamdub

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so, i did comp and leak down when i got it, it was decent.
used 1qt in 5,000mi
now 55k later, its more than double the consumption...not a lot in the catch can either.
but when the blower goes on, im sure itll only get worse and be leaking horsepowers.
i might do another comp and leakdown before i yank it(doing a cam/springs, vvt delete, and dod delete) just for curiosity.

I guess the bright side is that, since it sounds like it needs new rings and a hone (as you've already determined), you could gap the rings for boost.
 

iamdub

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Does doing this f~up your cat's or sensors? Piss the neighbors off?

I'm not sure. I wanna say probably not since GM outlines a soak in their oil consumption TSB. But, GM is also the aśśhole that says burning one quart of oil every 2,000 miles is within spec.

I doubt it'll hurt anything. There's no way the combustion chambers and/or rings hold enough carbon to do any real damage to the cats. I don't know how much it smokes. If you're thinking of Seafoam, the good/right stuff to perform the soak contains a lot more active ingredients that burn off in the dissolved carbon. The majority of Seafoam is pale oil, so that's mostly what's smoking when burning. It's not "all the carbon" in your engine. A brand new, carbonless engine will smoke like crazy when Seafoamed.
 
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iamdub

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Does anyone know the factory underhead length for the rear wheel studs? I’m finding between 2.281” and 2.575”. I’d guess it’s the shorter one. I can pull the wheel and rotor off to check but if someone knows or has one laying around... been crazy sick lately and won’t be able to mess with it for a while

No idea. But, to add yet another factor, could it be that the shorter length you're finding is just the threaded portion and the longer is the whole shank, including the unthreaded portion on the end of the stud? That's a difference of .294". I always estimated that unthreaded part to be about .375".
 

Geotrash

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Does anyone know the factory underhead length for the rear wheel studs? I’m finding between 2.281” and 2.575”. I’d guess it’s the shorter one. I can pull the wheel and rotor off to check but if someone knows or has one laying around... been crazy sick lately and won’t be able to mess with it for a while

2.281" for the rear, and 2.575" for the front.

1649422462372.png

1649422283543.png


 
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swathdiver

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