It's just not a thing around here, probably has to do with some ******** California regulation.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
There's a Cruisers right downtown and two Union 76s, one each in Salida and Riverbank. There's a Shell that carries it off 580 and International Parkway. A Mobil station in Farmington also has it.
In your area, there's a Flying J at 12 and I-5 and a Kwik Serv at 12 and Hutchins that carries it. I'm looking at the Gas Buddy app.
they don't have it, gas buddy is a lie-r lol, flying j doesn't have it that's why there is no price shown, however a fresh search shows there is a price of $2.75 at a kwik serv in Lodi and the next closest one is in Sac for $2.79, I might have to take a run up to Lodi just to try out a tank if they in fact have it.
R3cord303
Posse In Effect
My oil filter arrived from Amazon today! PF63e from AC Delco. Will be changing oil and emptying catch can tomorrow. I thiiiink I will be fiddling with tire pressure limits in the tune, and adding 5 pounds of air in each tire. Hope to get some better fuel economy. Anybody know how to take the crossbars off the roof rack?
the other 2 places you mentioned are about as far as Sacramento
i'm guessing you have to take the caps off the ends to get them off just like on the nbs's
Oh no doubt. In an effort to “encourage” EV’s. I’m sure they got creative with who can sell E85. And how / where..
it could be that there just isn't anyone around here that produces it and therefore it is in limited supply, I read something about it before
even if a station wanted to add a tank for it the cost would be stupendous they made a rule here a few years ago that all single wall tanks had to be shut down or replaced so a lot of places just went belly up because of the cost involved plus they have to carry 1 million dollar insurance policy's on each tank in case it leaks
fuel vapor is a bigger green house gas then burning the fuel it self.... that is why they have a vapor recovery system in California
it's kinda like those guys that say Fill up at night because of fuel vapors that is false since the computer purges the fuel tank of vapors the PSI will likely be at 0PSI +- 2 psi
Last edited:
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Well, prices drop off after 24 hours so if no one posts at a particular station for two days it will go blank. Very often, people will post for regular gas but not ethanol or high test or diesel. In addition, GB takes about a year to update a station that no longer carries it or to add a new one or change a station that goes from Chevron to Shell for example.
If the local politicians figure out a way to profit from it, then you'd see its availability increase. It came our way via government grants signed into law more than four years ago and renewed more recently. They basically paid for the installation of blender pumps and turned some stations into boutique gas stations, offering only 87, 88 and E85. Two around here offer E30, there are seven in the county that offer E85 and some of those now offer Unleaded 88 which is also known as E15.
A tank of top tier 93 octane is about $80 right now. If I mix E85 and E15 I get the same octane rating for $60 a tank. That's real money and adds up quick.
ya gas buddy has always shown flying j as having it but they don't the station is at the next exit from me about a mile away
iamdub
Full Access Member
I was wondering why you were ordering the LS3 heads, but figured you just had the money and wanted to have brand new heads. Or maybe you suspected a head was cracked and it wasn't a failed head gasket at fault.
If you won't be adding forced induction later:
I'd have the current heads cleaned and refreshed while they're off, maybe with a cleaning pass at most on the surface. At 115K miles, they really shouldn't need much of anything other than cleaning. Valve seals are cheap insurance and now's the time to replace them.
Thicker push rods are cheap insurance if you rev your engine out often.
LS9 gaskets- sure, why not?
Stock TTY head bolts are fine and I'd recommend the Summit-branded ones since they're re-packaged OEM ones for cheaper. ARPs in this application would be more for the convenience of torquing with a torque wrench rather than an angle gauge. To me, the cost isn't worth it.
Definitely replace the valley cover, IM, exhaust manifold and valve cover gaskets. The GM MLS exhaust gaskets are great. Avoid the "cardboard" ones.
If the spark plugs are original, they may as well be replaced since you'll have such easy access. Stock replacement is fine- ACDelco or NGK are my favs. Watch for counterfeit plugs on Amazon and ebay. If the price is too good to be true, it very well may be.
Be careful when ordering OEM LS7 lifters. There are a lot of knock-offs and a few horror stories to go with them. Do your research. Since the strike at GM, lots of OEM parts became scarce and expensive for what was available.
Don't forget new exhaust manifold bolts. I've only had experience with the Dorman kit and never had a problem. Don't forget the anti-sieze!
Personally, I wouldn't worry with the water pump unless it's weeping. I've seen plenty of 150K-200K mile original pumps. It only takes and hour and a basic metric socket set to replace it. But if it's in your budget and you'd feel safer, replace it while you're under the hood.
I don't know if your engine would have the screen under the oil pressure sensor, but now would be a great time to check and clean or replace it if you have it. You may as well replace the oil pressure sensor (I highly recommend ACDelco here) since the cost would seem negligible if you needed to change it later with the IM in place.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Eeew. E-core filter FTL.
FWIW, they did improve the design more recently. But, you wouldn't know if you're getting the new one when ordering it. Personally, I'd stick to the known tried-and-true filters. The extra $3 spent every 5,000 miles is absolutely worth the lower risk of circulating unfiltered oil.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
Until recently, I didn't know the pf48E was a junk filter compared to the pf48. I went to the upf48 and cold starts are less noisy and my oil pressure is higher at idle, and stays around 38-42 at cruising speed. I swear my VVT is also working better too, but I don't have any official proof, unless my butt-meter counts? Haha
I think this is my next big project. I got an oil change and he told me that valley cover gasket most likely is shot and needs replaced. Have you done this? Hard to find videos for the 2007 year.
Here’s a video on a 2008 6.0L but should be similar. Gets to the valley cover around 11:15.
992dr
Full Access Member
Replaced my drivers rear window regulator finally (those door panels can be a pain to out back on) and passenger rear window deflector. Sucker came flying out outta nowhere. WeatherTech replaced it though, great customer service.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I've torn these engines down and reassembled many times. I'll be pulling mine out and tearing it down to the shortblock very soon to replace the cam and lifters (AFM delete), all seals and gaskets, etc.
Valley cover gasket would be super easy and a half day job taking your time. I'd make it a full day job with all the extra studying and cleaning I'd be doing, particularly with the intake manifold. Having a "dry" intake manifold makes these things so easy to work on.
I don't know what your timeframe is looking like, but if I do mine before you do yours and if time allows, I'll try to remember to take pics of the process. I don't see myself being in a rush since I'm now planning on having my heads lightly worked over. That alone makes it a multi-week process instead of a one-weekender.
The basics off the top of my head:
Remove the beauty cover
Relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the lines
Remove the intake tube from the TB
Unplug the TB, all injectors and all sensors. The injector clips are about the hardest part of the whole process
)Loosen the IM bolts (they're captured so just loosen 'til they can be pulled up)
Remove the IM
Plug intake ports in heads with shop towels or painter's tape
Clean off valley cover
Remove valley cover bolts
Remove valley cover
I'd inspect the IM for oil in the back of it and thoroughly clean the TB and insides of the IM, including the runners with a baby bottle brush, engine degreaser, spray from the water hose nozzle, brake parts cleaner and blow dry with compressed air.
Last edited:
I did watch that one. Like that guy. He’s got a sweet torque wrench too. I noticed his cover had o-rings on the bottom side. I don’t see them looking on Rock auto gaskets. Is that something I should worry about?
