What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Drok

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Crying because it's almost old (already is)
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I hear ya. Just a few hundred more miles and mine hits the ol’ 100k mark
 

nadthomas

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Or at least explain what kind of surgery.

Its a bit of a story, but fair enough. I bought my 07 Denali back in December from my boss with 194k on the clock and a handful of issues. Broken exhaust studs, leaky valve covers, CEL for cam phaser, etc. I kind of bought to replace my second vehicle for myself, but my wife liked it better then her Ford Fusion so she has claimed it. So, I'm going to be pulling the engine to give me easy access to things and I'm going to give it a "light" refresh. The compress/Leak down test I did before buying it was good, and there is no metal in the oil so I'm not pulling the heads or having it rebuilt at this time unless I find something that says I need to rebuild it. I'm going to replace all of the exhaust manifold bolts, replace the oil pump and pickup, cam phaser, timing set, front cover, water pump, rear main seal, and the gaskets on anything I touch. Of course I'm going to clean everything to make it look new(ish) again, and probably paint the valve covers just to jazz it up a little.

We will probably only keep the Denali for 3-5 years, which means about another 50k miles on it, but I figure doing these things now while its still running well should keep it going for another 100k without issues.

I'll also be replacing the trans filter, and inspecting the valve body to see if I have a worn check ball as it sometimes shifts a little hard. If needed, I'll rebuild the transmission myself at some point. There is a how to thread on Pirate4x4 for the 6L80E, and it really doesn't seem that hard.

After I get that all back together, I'll be removing all of the factory air ride components as my rear shocks are complete blown. Rebuilding the air ride even with arnott parts will be more expensive the a Belltech 753SP 2/3 dropkit. So, I'll be going with that along with the DJM Endlinks from NorcalSS. Plus I like the look of them lowered, and it should also help improve handling.
 
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Rocket Man

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Its a bit of a story, but fair enough. I bought my 07 Denali back in December from my boss with 194k on the clock and a handful of issues. Broken exhaust studs, leaky valve covers, CEL for cam phaser, etc. I kind of bought to replace my second vehicle for myself, but my wife liked it better then her Ford Fusion so she has claimed it. So, I'm going to be pulling the engine to give me easy access to things and I'm going to give it a "light" refresh. The compress/Leak down test I did before buying it was good, and there is no metal in the oil so I'm not pulling the heads or having it rebuilt at this time unless I find something that says I need to rebuild it. I'm going to replace all of the exhaust manifold bolts, replace the oil pump and pickup, cam phaser, timing set, front cover, water pump, rear main seal, and the gaskets on anything I touch. Of course I'm going to clean everything to make it look new(ish) again, and probably paint the valve covers just to jazz it up a little.

We will probably only keep the Denali for 3-5 years, which means about another 50k miles on it, but I figure doing these things now while its still running well should keep it going for another 100k without issues.

I'll also be replacing the trans filter, and inspecting the valve body to see if I have a worn check ball as it sometimes shifts a little hard. If needed, I'll rebuild the transmission myself at some point. There is a how to thread on Pirate4x4 for the 6L80E, and it really doesn't seem that hard.

After I get that all back together, I'll be removing all of the factor air ride components as my rear shocks are complete blown. Rebuilding the air ride even with arnott parts will be more expensive the a Belltech 753SP 2/3 dropkit. So, I'll be going with that along with the DJM Endlinks from NorcalSS. Plus I like the look of them lowered, and it should also help improve handling.
Sounds fun. Keep us posted. Or a build thread FTW.
 

iamdub

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Just looked at Bertha. Been driving the daily, Maxie. I've put 10k miles on the daily since April 9th. Trying to keep those miles off the Yukon.

With what I'm saving on gas ($440/month+) driving the truck, I pay for the daily payment and half of the monthly gas, lmao. 1/2 the gas to fill up and goes twice as far. I miss the sound of the FM's.
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Preach it!

Jenn got a "go-kart" a few months back and it's paying for itself with the fuel savings. Plus, the Tahoe is back at my disposal to drive or modify. Well, drive AND modify...
 

93blkongreenpro

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Preach it!

Jenn got a "go-kart" a few months back and it's paying for itself with the fuel savings. Plus, the Tahoe is back at my disposal to drive or modify. Well, drive AND modify...
And the fact that I average 36mpg on my 60ish mile highway commute doesnt hurt. I could have gotten a mazda 3, but I wanted some room to carry myself and 4 people. The Mazda 6 makes easy work of 5 6ft people!

My old protege is hopefully selling tmrw, so lowering springs, strut bars,lower tie bars and sway bars will be on order for the M6!
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kbuskill

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Ok... I have a question...

Why are the gauges different???

My 2008 Surburban LTZ has gauges like @Galante 's and @07Burb 's... without the hash marks that @Doubeleive 's has.

At first I thought maybe it had to do with the year of the truck but I believe Galante's is a 2013.

Is it a Chevy vs GMC thing or LTZ vs LT thing or ???

Edit... I just went back and looked... @Doubeleive 's Speedo goes to 140mph... mine only goes to 120.

Is yours a Denali???

I wonder if the PPVs are like that too.

Did the "always on" gauge cluster mod so I can actually see how fast I'm going during the day.

View attachment 201338 View attachment 201339 View attachment 201340

Yet another different style of gauge face...

What year and model is your truck???
 

Drok

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So i never use thr rear wiper and so i pulled the fuze for it so jic i hit the button it wouldnt work and scratch the rear glass anymore then it already is. Well a day later i went to use the rear glass for the first time in weeks, it didnt open with any buttons.... well last night it hit me maybe the fuze for the rear wiper may be the same fuze to the rear glass popper. Or i just pulled the wrong fuze to begin with. I put the fuze for (where it said rear wiper) nack in and the glass window opens again. Haha i almost brought it up to the techs to look at :rolleyes:
 

Rocket Man

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So i never use thr rear wiper and so i pulled the fuze for it so jic i hit the button it wouldnt work and scratch the rear glass anymore then it already is. Well a day later i went to use the rear glass for the first time in weeks, it didnt open with any buttons.... well last night it hit me maybe the fuze for the rear wiper may be the same fuze to the rear glass popper. Or i just pulled the wrong fuze to begin with. I put the fuze for (where it said rear wiper) nack in and the glass window opens again. Haha i almost brought it up to the techs to look at :rolleyes:
Just pull the wiring connector from the button.
 

Rocket Man

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