What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mikez71]

Discovered GM started getting cute with window switch screws after '09..
Management said "Give us a screw that pulls out twice as easily!"

My '12 screws would just slide into aftermarket '09 bezel, but do bite in my used OEM '09 bezel.
The '09 screws do screw into the amazon replacement bezel...

Notice all the plastic dust at the tip of the serrated(2012) screw..

 

[Rocket Man]

Got a “new” key fob. I’ve been using a 2015 style retrofit for about 4 years, but it was looking pretty bad and it has some extra buttons I don’t need. Also those buttons seem to press more easily (when I don’t want them to) so I’d always walk out to rear hatch being open.

Felt like returning to the old simple one. I got this from NorthCoast Keyless and picked the “lightly used” option (it’ll get scratched up anyways). $24.94 shipped and it appears to be an oem one

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Boost Auto has 2021 style now and if you get the correct one for your vehicle, it wont have any “extra buttons” . Mine dont inadvertently open anything

.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

grabbed a dorman at the store and proceed to R&R and the door clips had no mercy at all, this support part broke off, luckily it was a rather easy Macgvyer fix
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Nicely done! I need to replace my passenger side rear door handle that came off in my hand last week. I'm waiting until the temperature warm up a bit first.

 

[Doubeleive]

Nicely done! I need to replace my passenger side rear door handle that came off in my hand last week. I'm waiting until the temperature warm up a bit first.

you'll probably have to do like I did and grab the broken off nut with pliers, without scratching the paint. I managed to only make one tiny mark.
then the rod is held in with a yellow clip that just pulls back, it can be very stiff.
that part that broke off on my door panel is at the top outside edge (just below where the inside unlock pull-tab is), you might want to be extra careful right there

 

[mikez71]

then the rod is held in with a yellow clip that just pulls back, it can be very stiff.
that part that broke off on my door panel is at the top outside edge (just below where the inside unlock pull-tab is), you might want to be extra careful right there

Thinking about that yellow clip hurts my fingertips!

I believe that door panel clip & bracket (that always breaks) is only on the front doors.
If you have a proper clip removal tool, it's' definitely worth using it there.

Thinking about 3d printing a clip holder bracket as my replacement panels are missing them.
That said, I don't seem to notice the missing door panel clip..

 

[Doubeleive]

Thinking about that yellow clip hurts my fingertips!

I believe that door panel clip & bracket (that always breaks) is only on the front doors.
If you have a proper clip removal tool, it's' definately worth using it there.

Thinking about 3d printing a clip holder bracket as my replacement panels are missing them.
That said, I don't seem to notice the missing door panel clip..

the one that broke on mine was a rear door

 

[89Suburban]

after changing the door handle and vacuuming the rear of the truck I had a very annoying rattle in the back couldn't quit figure it out so had my son ride in the back and had him pinpoint it, discovered it was coming from behind the passenger rear side lower panel (where the rear ac/heater box is) so pulled out my subs the 3rd row seats, pulled all the panels out and the rattle disappeared......put it all back together and rattle gone, so really don't know what it was but thank the gods.....
it was a buzz buzz buzzz about 30mph+, super annoying

Any pics while it was apart?

 

[Doubeleive]

Any pics while it was apart?

no, it comes apart like they always have except on the the 900's the rear upper pillar cover comes off separate, just has 1 screw the rest is clips
you take that piece off and then the upper & lower hatch covers and then the whole long piece that covers the hvac box just pulls out. easy to do, I just had to disconnect my amp and subs first, then remove the 3rd row seat.
If it wasn't for my subs It could be done in less than 5 minutes

 

[LSCALADE]

had checked the catch can about a month ago, wasn't bad. few oz of normal looking oil with about 2500mil on it. Just changed it at 3k and checked it again. week or 2 of cold Temps below 32 and short drives. crazy amount of condensation to me since I've never seen any before.

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That should keep the valves clean otherwise that gets sucked into the combustion chambers and burns off but its best to keep it out of it. On Ethanol they produce way more condensation too.

 

[j91z28d1]

That should keep the valves clean otherwise that gets sucked into the combustion chambers and burns off but its best to keep it out of it. On Ethanol they produce way more condensation too.

yeah just surprised to see the water, had the catch can on here almost a year now and never seem anthing but oil. being south tx, the cold snap is pretty rare

 

[the_tool_man]

yeah just surprised to see the water, had the catch can on here almost a year now and never seem anthing but oil. being south tx, the cold snap is pretty rare

I've been running a catch can for 4 years. I empty it at every oil change (5k miles roughly 4-5 times a year). In the summer months, the fluid in the can looks like dirty oil. In the winter months, it looks like Yoohoo (chocolate milk). I assume this is condensate from sitting overnight every night. If anyone is on the fence about a catch can, you should add one. Even my 2012 with the revised valve cover baffle tries to push about 6-8oz of this stuff into the intake. And it's an easy and inexpensive measure to take.

I've been sidelined with a knee injury since mid-December. I've not been able to drive, and won't for a few more weeks, at least. I start it and let it warm up every few days. It's due for an oil change, so I can't wait to see what goo awaits me next time, lol.