What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I hate to be an ass and ask, but: is the bar possibly on upside-down?

I was going to ask the same

 

[Doubeleive]

Not at all! I had it upside down initially!! Alignment worse.. Looks like it might snap endlinks.

Current links are about .5" longer than the short links shown in my previous post.

upside down, rightside up.
Stock length endlinks.
View attachment 478537View attachment 478538

that bar doesn't need to be perfect, if it is angled up a bit with slightly longer end links it will be fine as long as it is not hitting anything

 

[mikez71]

Agreed, but I do believe the shorter endlinks should have been spec'd here.

(stock length)

Also, It actually did seem harsher when I used the stock links.
@Rocketman mentioned this, but after going just a little shorter, it felt like less vibration over rough patches of road.
Could be placebo because I haven't switched back to verify, and don't test on any specific piece of road..
Also, the misalignment at eyelet needs more compression to keep bushings snug.

With the slightly shorter links I'm OK with it. Works great.
About $450 less than a set of Hellwig's..
(Actually I can't find the rear swaybar on Hellwig's site, I wonder if they discontinued it? The rear bar was more expensive with endlink hardware)

 

[Sir_Hiro]

I can feel my brakes acting wonky, and pulling ever-so-slightly to one side when I stomp the brake pedal. I'm probably due for new pads up front, and maybe rotors too.

I've had rear pads crack in half, with the friction material floating in the caliper. Luckily it wasn't the fronts.

Anyone know what the minimum rotor thicknesses are, off the tops of your heads?

Yeah I still need to do the fronts. I did get some pedal feel back or maybe its just a placebo effect.
I scored some new Rotors for 60 bucks. Normally I don't replace rotors unless they are grooved or I feel them warped.

 

[Charlie207]

Yeah I still need to do the fronts. I did get some pedal feel back or maybe its just a placebo effect.
I scored some new Rotors for 60 bucks. Normally I don't replace rotors unless they are grooved or I feel them warped.

I noticed a slightly improved pedal feel after replacing all the rubber hoses, and installing all new guide pins, then using a pressure-flusher thing (Motive) to force new fluid through all the lines. Go figure.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

I noticed a slightly improved pedal feel after replacing all the rubber hoses, and installing all new guide pins, then using a pressure-flusher thing (Motive) to force new fluid through all the lines. Go figure.

The PO i bought it off of said it recently had the brakes serviced but I dont think they did a good enough ABS flush. The pedal is still a bit squishy. So once it gets warmer I'll do a better flush. Looks like all the lines were replaced at least to the rear

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Agreed, but I do believe the shorter endlinks should have been spec'd here.

(stock length)
View attachment 478573
View attachment 478574

Also, It actually did seem harsher when I used the stock links.
@Rocketman mentioned this, but after going just a little shorter, it felt like less vibration over rough patches of road.
Could be placebo because I haven't switched back to verify, and don't test on any specific piece of road..
Also, the misalignment at eyelet needs more compression to keep bushings snug.

With the shorter links I'm OK with it. Works great.
At about half the price of a set of Hellwig's, I'm not complaining much..
(Actually I can't find the rear swaybar on Hellwig's site, I wonder if they discontinued it? The rear bar was more expensive with endlink hardware)

Interesting.... I just went to the Hellwig site to see if the rear sway bar is still offered for my 2007. It still is.

And, yes, I think that the shorter links work work better in your case.

 

[mikez71]

Interesting.... I just went to the Hellwig site to see if the rear sway bar is still offered for my 2007. It still is.

NVM I see it now!

Products - Hellwig Products

www.hellwigproducts.com

I might have been on some old or alternate sub vendor site before because it looks different.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Agreed, but I do believe the shorter endlinks should have been spec'd here.

(stock length)
View attachment 478573
View attachment 478574

Also, It actually did seem harsher when I used the stock links.
@Rocketman mentioned this, but after going just a little shorter, it felt like less vibration over rough patches of road.
Could be placebo because I haven't switched back to verify, and don't test on any specific piece of road..
Also, the misalignment at eyelet needs more compression to keep bushings snug.

With the slightly shorter links I'm OK with it. Works great.
About $450 less than a set of Hellwig's..
(Actually I can't find the rear swaybar on Hellwig's site, I wonder if they discontinued it? The rear bar was more expensive with endlink hardware)

For the future, I suggest that you find a 'test' strip(s) of road, so that you can evaluate the actual changes resulting from your performance-related mods. For the sway bars, a before and after drive on of your designated 'test' strips of road (for me, I have a highway exit ramp 'test' strip) will tell you how much actual improvement in body roll and speed to tire squeal has been achieved.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Finally got around to installing the Denali Roof Rack. Looks much better than the other one.

 

[lowh07]

for some reason, Texas Speed offers next day delivery on the Mechman 320 alternator… even though they’re made to order… I ordered it two weeks ago and just got it delivered and installed this afternoon (after many phone calls with TSP and Mechman). Just in time to check-in at Lonestar Throwdown today

 

[Joseph Garcia]

for some reason, Texas Speed offers next day delivery on the Mechman 320 alternator… even though they’re made to order… I ordered it two weeks ago and just got it delivered and installed this afternoon (after many phone calls with TSP and Mechman). Just in time to check-in at Lonestar Throwdown today

View attachment 478857
View attachment 478858

Did you have to change belt sizes to accommodate the new alternator, as the pulley looks smaller in the photo?

 

[mikez71]

Did you have to change belt sizes to accommodate the new alternator, as the pulley looks smaller in the photo?

Great point, since swapping to the 220A factory starter even goes down in pulley size a tiny bit.
(iamdub measured the difference.. maybe 2mm smaller diameter?)

It moved the tensioner range marking...(a little?)
Currently it is not halfway between the lines, 3/4 towards the loose direction.
So mine moved between 1/4 to 3/4 of the range indicator... cant remember.
(New belt might be biased towards the tight side?)

 

[Doubeleive]

For the future, I suggest that you find a 'test' strip(s) of road, so that you can evaluate the actual changes resulting from your performance-related mods. For the sway bars, a before and after drive on of your designated 'test' strips of road (for me, I have a highway exit ramp 'test' strip) will tell you how much actual improvement in body roll and speed to tire squeal has been achieved.

when I installed my hellwigs I could tell the difference from just sitting in it. my butt-meter is pretty sensitive though lol
I could also tell when my rear shocks were running 9-10 psi versus the normal 18-20, I could feel the difference driving, to me it was very apparent.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have the 320, **correction (250a large case) on mine and did not not have to change the belt size, speaking of which I found my 3 yr old HD belt has some rough spots the other day so I ordered a new belt yesterday. just random spots on the belt are worn kinda weird

 

[Doubeleive]

for some reason, Texas Speed offers next day delivery on the Mechman 320 alternator… even though they’re made to order… I ordered it two weeks ago and just got it delivered and installed this afternoon (after many phone calls with TSP and Mechman). Just in time to check-in at Lonestar Throwdown today

View attachment 478857
View attachment 478858

I see you got the 4 pin version, are you using the bypass adapter they sell?
**that pulley looks pretty small though, the small pulley will reduce the rpm's it can handle.

 

[mikez71]

Heres my belt tensioner.. Maybe 10k miles on belt... The good thing is, the belt is that much easier to install with slightly smaller pulley.

I was wrong, belt is NOTt 3/4 over to loose side, that line the indicator is close to, is not even halfway!
There is another line I couldn't get the camera on, like @Doubelieve's photo!
Still, I do remember it was that much easier to put the belt on, so the tensioner moved a little bit with the smaller pulley. (duh)

 

[lowh07]

Did you have to change belt sizes to accommodate the new alternator, as the pulley looks smaller in the photo?

yes I did. I knew it would be smaller, but I'm wondering if they installed the 1.75. I didn't think mine was supposed to have any writing on it, and all of the ones I see with "mechman" are the smallest 1.75". I need to measure it and figure it out because even the new belt is a little looser than I'd like.

I see you got the 4 pin version, are you using the bypass adapter they sell?
**that pulley looks pretty small though, the small pulley will reduce the rpm's it can handle.

Yeah I just received the bypass adapter tonight so I'll plug that in in the morning. It's supposed to be 46mm or 1.81 inches but I'm wondering if they installed the 1.75. Either way, this one is supposed to be a "racing" alternator with a bunch of good stuff including a "hairpin stator for exceptional high-RPM durability". I saw most of the other high output ones say they're not recommended over 5000rpm. I think all the 400s say that. I'll still verify the pulley size and might size up regardless.

 

[Doubeleive]

yes I did. I knew it would be smaller, but I'm wondering if they installed the 1.75. I didn't think mine was supposed to have any writing on it, and all of the ones I see with "mechman" are the smallest 1.75". I need to measure it and figure it out because even the new belt is a little looser than I'd like.



Yeah I just received the bypass adapter tonight so I'll plug that in in the morning. It's supposed to be 46mm or 1.81 inches but I'm wondering if they installed the 1.75. Either way, this one is supposed to be a "racing" alternator with a bunch of good stuff including a "hairpin stator for exceptional high-RPM durability". I saw most of the other high output ones say they're not recommended over 5000rpm. I think all the 400s say that. I'll still verify the pulley size and might size up regardless.

if my 250a ever craps out i'll probably buy a 4 pin and use the bypass adapter, I didn't get the 350 because of the pulley I high rpm this bish daily so didn't want to take chances.
I didn't know they had a way to work around the rvc until well after I had already bought mine.

 

[lowh07]

Heres my belt tensioner.. Maybe 10k miles on belt... The good thing is, the belt is that much easier to install with slightly smaller pulley.

I was wrong, belt is NOTt 3/4 over to loose side, that line the indicator is close to, is not even halfway!
There is another line I couldn't get the camera on, like @Doubelieve's photo!
Still, I do remember it was that much easier to put the belt on, so the tensioner moved a little bit with the smaller pulley. (duh)

View attachment 478913

Well after looking at yours, mine is just about exactly the same. I also didn't see the third line initially, so I'm guessing I'm good! For the belt I changed from a Gates K060935HD to a K060930HD. I'll get a picture later today. My pulley does appear to be the correct 46mm. I also high rpm it daily but it's supposed to be able to handle it. I might run the 6.0 to 6500 but no higher I think. Here's a link if anyone wants to see the alternator I got (black): https://mechman.com/320-amp-high-output-racing-alternator-for-gm-truck-ls-brackets-black/

They also have BSTOCK for $100 off, and raw/custom colors, and billet.

The application years don't show anything later than '05, but I couldn't find a 2-pin alternator with similar "racing" specs. Assuming that's by design because apparently for a high load setup like mine will be, it's better to bypass the RVC and have constant voltage. Might be obvious to y'all but this is the first time I'm digging into this. I plugged in the bypass (Mechman P103) yesterday and the battery system warning error/light went away. I had to buy the bypass separately and it was about $30 on Summit. For the switched 12v source I used a fuse tap in the ignition fuse.

Also I don't think I mentioned it, but I did the big 3 upgrade as well. I saw some conflicting info, but I went from the battery positive terminal to the alternator with a 300 amp fuse (left the stock cable in place), battery negative to block (alongside the factory one), then from block to frame.