What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[George B]

Left hand used to open the door is LH swing and RH swing is right hand used to open the door.

What if you only have one hand???

 

[kbuskill]

Wrong


Haha


Bingo

How can option 1 (mine) be wrong and option 3 (wjburken) be correct???

They are the same thing... lol

It's just a different way of describing the same thing.

 

[08z71bgm]

What if you only have one hand???

Then I guess it’s a single hand swing

 

[13BurbanKid]

I've been in parts for 10+ years. I have heard it all. The descriptions these manufacturers come up sometimes are crazy!

 

[Doubeleive]

Along those same lines, we should also define a standard for WTF "turn over" means. Does it mean that the crankshaft spins when the starter engages the flexplate or flywheel? Or, is it referring to the engine actually firing up after being spun by the starter? Some people say "the engine turns over but doesn't start" while others say "the engine cranks but doesn't turn over". Personally, I'd rather just banish the term from the database.

ya it's like when they say "it won't start" ummmmmm what?, lol

 

[992dr]

Super easy to replace once you have the transmission pulled away and flexplate removed.

For an in-car replacement, I highly recommend using a rear cover alignment tool. Might wanna check that oil pan gasket while you're there. Actually, the oil pan should go on after the rear cover, meaning it should at least be loosened to hang down a little as to not push upward on the rear cover while you're centering it. At that point, you may as well replace the oil pan gasket. Which, at that point, you may as well replace the oil pump pickup tube O-ring.

I think that's what makes me the most nervous, dropping the trans. That seems to be a pretty big process. I'm not quite sure what I'd need to do it.

I have been reading about the alignment tool. Is one better than the other? I have seen two, plastic and billet. I am planning on doing the oil pan gasket because I thought it may be the culprit. I saw a video of where there is two long bolts that bolts up into the rear cover or something like that. I agree, the oil pickup tube O-ring will also be replaced since I'll be dropping the pan.

Are there any special tools required to do this?

Thanks

 

[Rocket Man]

How can option 1 (mine) be wrong and option 3 (wjburken) be correct???

They are the same thing... lol

It's just a different way of describing the same thing.

Youre right, it’s just not the way it’s described generally. Swing on.

 

[iamdub]

I think that's what makes me the most nervous, dropping the trans. That seems to be a pretty big process. I'm not quite sure what I'd need to do it.

I have been reading about the alignment tool. Is one better than the other? I have seen two, plastic and billet. I am planning on doing the oil pan gasket because I thought it may be the culprit. I saw a video of where there is two long bolts that bolts up into the rear cover or something like that. I agree, the oil pickup tube O-ring will also be replaced since I'll be dropping the pan.

Are there any special tools required to do this?

Thanks

I was kinda being facetious about it being easy. Unbolting the bellhousing is the biggest PITA of the job. You really wouldn't have to drop the trans. "Just" unbolt (or remove) the starter, remove the plastic shield, remove the three flexplate-to-converter bolts, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the rear trans mount, remove the eight bellhousing bolts (some will have nuts on top of them that hold other items), disconnect the trans cooler lines from the trans, pop out the trans dipstick tube (one of those items secured by a nut on the bellhousing bolt/stud), might have to unplug a harness(s) or release it from the clips for slack, then support the trans with a transmission jack or some other that can roll, then slide the trans backward a couple inches.

You'll need about 4' of extensions with U-joints and/or wobble extensions to reach some of them bellhousing bolts from the back of the trans.

The material of the alignment tool isn't much concern for you. If you were a shop that worked on a lot of LSs, then you'd invest in a billet one. Honestly, I've never used one. I use the crankshaft to center the cover, then a straightedge to align the bottom of the cover with the bottom of the block, letting it pivot on the crankshaft. This is easy to do with the engine out, but with it in the vehicle and with limited working space, the alignment tool will pay for itself in labor. All the covers (oil pan included) have to be aligned within very tight tolerances. The oil pan has to snug up to the block and bottom of the front and rear covers, so those covers go on first and have to be in proper alignment. The bellhousing snugs up to the rear of the block and to the oil pan, so the oil pan has to be in proper alignment. You don't wanna have the bellhousing pushing or pulling on the oil pan cuz it can crack it. Yes, there are two long bolts that secure the oil pan to the rear cover. These are the two that get torqued to a much lower spec than the rest of the oil pan bolts (106 in.-lbs. versus 18 ft.-lbs.)

Any chance your rear main seal is ok and it's just your oil pan gasket leaking? Have you tried cleaning off all the oil and watching for fresh trails to find the source? Grab a couple cans of Super Tech brake parts cleaner from Walmart and spray off the oil. Don't forget the safety goggles!

 

[89Suburban]

Yes

if you want, hit tow haul button while idling and watch gauge. It creep right up to the middle and hang there.
Yesterday it was probably charging and today it doesn’t need much. It will go up when needed.

Okay I tried this yesterday and it did not to that.

 

[PG01]

Okay I tried this yesterday and it did not to that.


View attachment 257568

Takes a few but it turns off the rvc so when you have a trailer hooked up (with a house battery) it charges that battery. How long did you watch?
Just curious because I can get mine to go up nd stay above 14...