This the stuff I bought at AutoZone it sticks on well
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Anyone ever used upper control arm bolts with grease fittings?
The replacement GM cam bolts are completely different than the OEM ones. So buyers beware.
Not only will they not fit the old plates, but they don’t even fit a set of brand new OEM GM Genuine camber plates.
They are fully threaded with lines ground down the center of the bolt - on opposite sides versus having one flat “keyed side” to fit the camber keyway.
After an hour of grinding and filing I got them to work, but I’m debating on switching over to some other brand (maybe MOOG camber bolts).
I saw they had Delco and MOOG kits, both with and without grease zerks.
The replacement GM cam bolts are completely different than the OEM ones. So buyers beware.
Not only will they not fit the old plates, but they don’t even fit a set of brand new OEM GM Genuine camber plates.
They are fully threaded with lines ground down the center of the bolt - on opposite sides versus having one flat “keyed side” to fit the camber keyway.
After an hour of grinding and filing I got them to work, but I’m debating on switching over to some other brand (maybe MOOG camber bolts).
I saw they had Delco and MOOG kits, both with and without grease zerks.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
A little late on noticing, but you made post number 50k. Holy $mokes we all talk a lot. Or rather bounce ideas off, and help motivate each other (aka help our friends spend their money). Ha!
if the bushings are rubber don't pump regular grease in them. it will degrade the rubber
I believe there are two camber plates avail, one with more adjustment. Which one did you purchase?
Take a read through here. Thanks for the heads up. The older these trucks get, the worse it will get to find the right parts.
Might have to improvise.
Thoughts on greasable upper amd lower control arm bolts?
Hi all, Had to take the ride into a shop for some electrical work. While I was in there the shop found three out of four ball joints were going bad in the front. It's a semi rusty western NY truck, so I'm going to do upper and lower control arms. Moogs with the greasable ball joints. Shop owner...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
Finally upgraded to the heated wheel and replaced the turn signal stalk. Finally have the ability to flash my high beams again. What’s crazy is how much nicer the new stalk feels. It’s quieter and smoother. Weird because it’s just an OEM one.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
All one piece metal.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
It's the little things that we learn to appreciate.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
See that was the reason for my question. I wondered why they even sold them, but maybe some people don’t care or don’t know better.
If that blinker fluid gets low and your whole damn engine could blow a transmission rod right out the tailpipe.
I bought both plates. One was the bolt that came with the plate, the other was just the plate. Let me grab the p/n’s.
*I don’t know why I made that last comment like you guys are on FaceTime or even listening to me compose this message. Ha!
GM - 15741217 (camber plate)
GM - 11601736 (bolt & plate)
*if you have a different p/n by all means, please share the knowledge.
In this last photo you can see that due to the fully threaded design of this bolt, the plate won’t go on any further than what’s shown. At least not without some modification. I had to grind and file the taste into my mouth before I could get the other side to fit.
Make sure to put the nut on first -before you do any grinding. That way when the nut is removed (prior to installation of the bolt), you will be using the nut to help “reset” the threads of the bolt you just abused.
Otherwise they can be a bit of a bear to bite initially without running the risk of cross threading. The same concept applies if you ever have to cut the length off a bolt or screw. Thread the nut on first, then cut it to length and as you remove the nut it will make ease of install. It’s also the reason why electrical wire strippers have a threaded hole in them. It not only helps hold the screw you’re cutting down, but as you unscrew it from the strippers it cleans up those first couple threads.
*the more you know…
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Did any of you guys ever try the tubing inside the weatherstripping trick? It’s where you take a smaller diameter round rubber tube and slide it into the OEM weather stripping. This helps to add some rigidity and also helps seal the wind a bit as well. I know you posted photos of yours being about due for replacement and someone wanting to block wind out.
The other trick is adding some low expansion spray foam to the top corner of both fenders - where it meets the door, just below the mirror. Basically where one of you added some adhesive foam, but you would be using spray foam from the inside.
It’s done in several different locations on the Denali’s as a “sound dampener”, along with the sound mat on the floor.
And a four pack. At first I was thinking “they sure are proud of these handles.” Not bad for a much stronger set of four.
Mine haven’t broke either, but the flaking chrome is getting to that point of potential papercuts, so I might be due to replace mine soon. During the 2013 snowpocalypse, I did have a door freeze shut on my ‘02 and someone broke one of the handles on that Yukon. Come to think of it, the tint on my drivers side window froze and snapped when I rolled the window down during that same winter.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
When I was much younger, and had big loud systems in my truck that would rattle everything, I took an old orange extension cord and lubed it up and inserted into the cavity of the weather stripping on the back of my Squarebody S-10 Blazer. It worked absolutely beautiful.
It may be considered ghetto using an extension cord, but if it works it ain't wrong.
In my defense, this was long before Amazon would just show up at your house bearing gifts, and I was young and cheap, errr.... I mean frugal.... lol
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
My guy…that sounds like a MUCH easier job than lubing up a flimsy piece of rubber tubing. Where the hell were you with this idea about five years ago?
992dr
Full Access Member
I need to Google it to see if I can find what you're talking about.
I've been using Power stop for years, but I think they're warping. I need something more dependable and readily available right now more than anything.
Well....I didn't do a thing to mine today, but an in law drove into it. See what insurance pays.
Thankfully, the only thing it needs is a color matched bumper cover, Top Cap, Inner steel part as the is bent and tail light.
Thankfully, the only thing it needs is a color matched bumper cover, Top Cap, Inner steel part as the is bent and tail light.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Ooof
992dr
Full Access Member
Yes, I forgot to mention that this is a part of updating the brakes is including new ss lines.
Did you upgrade your lines? If so which ones did you go with?
CMoore711
Full Access Member
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I actually upgraded to a complete Wilwood BBK with SS lines.
I previously owned a Trailblazer SS and upgraded the stock brake lines to stainless steel and it made a noticeable improvement to the stock brake set up.
Sorry can’t help you on brand for stock SS lines on the GMT900. I’m sure there are options though.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Did this to the seal under the hood on the cowl on all three a couple years ago. Worked great.
GM OE (Akebono).
22950036/177-1014
22968231/177-1149
There are also 3 different premium ACDelco type rotors, a Black Hat, Enhanced Performance (Police) and the Performance ones for towing and high heat with cooling slots.
I lost the set of keys yesterday for the Tahoe that had my Boost Auto key fob along with a house and mailbox key. I went to order a new 2015 style fob (price has gone way up it seems) and saw they now sell the 2020 style for the GMT900 platform only so I ordered the new version. On an unrelated note… bought these 2 Koi to add to my collection. My pond is filling in nicely. The fish are in Hawaii and will be shipped after they don’t eat for 2 weeks, poor guys.
Boost Auto link
boostautoparts.com
Boost Auto link
2020 Style GM Key Fob Retrofit (2007.5-2014 Trucks & SUV's)
2020 Style GM key fobs retrofitted to fit 2007-2014 GM full-size trucks. Direct replacement for your factory fobs. Chrome shell, user-programmable, a HUGE upgrade over OEM fobs. Fitting Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra as well as Tahoe, Yukon, and Suburban. Upgrade your key fob today!
boostautoparts.com
