What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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Random question. Does anyone know off the top of their head as to whether the bump stop for the control arm is only on the LH side upper, or is there one for the RH as well?

GM part no. 84128120
 

Geoffsfas10

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So we leave for our annual Gulf Coast trip friday...driving thru whats looking for gnarly storms BUT..
Sunday I gave it a good cleaning, inside, outside and put a new ceramic coat on it....cleans up really good for an 11 year old brown truck. Its dirty again, more tornadoes today and had to drive thru the rain but nothing sticks to it.

full


full


paint and glass is really reflecting

full
 

89Suburban

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So we leave for our annual Gulf Coast trip friday...driving thru whats looking for gnarly storms BUT..
Sunday I gave it a good cleaning, inside, outside and put a new ceramic coat on it....cleans up really good for an 11 year old brown truck. Its dirty again, more tornadoes today and had to drive thru the rain but nothing sticks to it.

full


full


paint and glass is really reflecting

full

Damn that's a good looking rig! Nice stance, wheels, tires, flaps, really nice!
 

dkad260

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Was able to pretty much eliminate the wind noise in the '12 Yukon around the front door/A pillar area which sounded like it was coming from around the mirrors. Did not have to pry out any weather stripping or use hot glue, etc... but I'll get pics later when I get back home and maybe start a thread on it.
 

Doubeleive

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Was able to pretty much eliminate the wind noise in the '12 Yukon around the front door/A pillar area which sounded like it was coming from around the mirrors. Did not have to pry out any weather stripping or use hot glue, etc... but I'll get pics later when I get back home and maybe start a thread on it.
the weather stripping around the door frame can get forced back/loose right about where the mirrors are located, so the seal is no longer where it should be and that lets wind in. mine works it's way loose every once in a while I just push it back in place. probably need to use some type of sealant to keep it in place permanently. I guess that's what happens when you drive 140mph lol.
 

dkad260

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This is work in progress so forgive the slight sloppiness as this is an ongoing science project.

I used some adhesive foam weatherstip, I believe 3/8" thick by 3/4" wide. I only have the black at the moment so if this works out I'll likely source some white or grey.

This is the RH side, both sides are the same.
Screenshot_20250605_101628_Gallery.jpg



I cut a small piece and placed here...


20250605_092417.jpg


Screenshot_20250605_092919_Gallery.jpg


Which is overlapped by a piece along the edge of the door.

20250605_092515.jpg


What it looks like as they come together...


Screenshot_20250605_092908_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20250605_092852_Gallery.jpg



Disappears from view when closed.

Screenshot_20250605_092714_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20250605_103247_Gallery.jpg



I did this on both sides and has pretty much eliminated the wind noise.

I also closed this smaller opening up
Behind the LH side mirror, but not on the RH side....both sides are just as quiet now so likely no reason to do this.

I have to clean up the install, again, still in the trial phase, but give it a try and see if it works. Was a substantial change in cabin noise.
 

Doubeleive

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This is work in progress so forgive the slight sloppiness as this is an ongoing science project.

I used some adhesive foam weatherstip, I believe 3/8" thick by 3/4" wide. I only have the black at the moment so if this works out I'll likely source some white or grey.

This is the RH side, both sides are the same.
View attachment 458940


I cut a small piece and placed here...


View attachment 458941

View attachment 458942

Which is overlapped by a piece along the edge of the door.

View attachment 458943

What it looks like as they come together...


View attachment 458944

View attachment 458945


Disappears from view when closed.

View attachment 458949

View attachment 458950


I did this on both sides and has pretty much eliminated the wind noise.

I also closed this smaller opening up
Behind the LH side mirror, but not on the RH side....both sides are just as quiet now so likely no reason to do this.

I have to clean up the install, again, still in the trial phase, but give it a try and see if it works. Was a substantial change in cabin noise.
The inner door seal is where the wind noise comes from on mine, you can see the little bit of spray glue I tried where it works its way loose, pushing it back up eliminates the noise
1000006694.jpg
1000006695.jpg
 

dkad260

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The inner door seal is where the wind noise comes from on mine, you can see the little bit of spray glue I tried where it works its way loose, pushing it back up eliminates the noiseView attachment 458961View attachment 458962
If you plan on keeping it for awhile, I would urge you to confirm the part # from the dealer and try to find a new OE seal online before they are NLA.

I did that with mine about 2 years ago and seemed to help a little. The main entry was that area I had treated with the pieces of weatherstip. I had my son use our small DeWalt blower and point air in numerous places....it was very distinct when aimed at this spot

Screenshot_20250605_092714_Gallery.jpg
 

CMoore711

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I have a random question. I'm looking to upgrade my brakes. I don't want or need to go with larger diameter rotors, but I would like to replace them as well as the calipers.
Just looking for ideas and any info from those who have experienced with any particular make/model.

Thanks :)

I thought there was a relatively cost affective way to upgrade to the 4-piston front calipers from the T1XX SUVs/Trucks? Maybe worth looking into.

Have you considered upgrading to stainless steel brake lines? Even with stock calipers they have a noticeable impact on increased pedal feel and response.

Personally, I would stay away from drilled rotors for a DD street vehicle. You end up with hairline cracks spider webbing from the drilled holes. I would stick with slotted, dimpled, or plain rotors.
 

CMoore711

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What brand black housing headlights do you have there?
How long have you had them?
Any issues with condensation?
What’s your opinion on the light output of the HID projector compared to OEM headlights?

I love the look of the black trimmed housing on the GMT900 Escalade but am so hesitant to go with an aftermarket headlight housing…
 

Doubeleive

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I thought there was a relatively cost affective way to upgrade to the 4-piston front calipers from the T1XX SUVs/Trucks? Maybe worth looking into.

Have you considered upgrading to stainless steel brake lines? Even with stock calipers they have a noticeable impact on increased pedal feel and response.

Personally, I would stay away from drilled rotors for a DD street vehicle. You end up with hairline cracks spider webbing from the drilled holes. I would stick with slotted, dimpled, or plain rotors.
i have had these power stop on the pickup for years now added them to the wifes truck a couple years ago and no issue's of any kind and I drive these mofo's like mario andretti
no problems with Baer erradispeed either those bad boys are thick
rotor.JPG
rotor1.jpg
 

kbuskill

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Anyone that has owned a GMT900 for any length of time has probably had to replace a door handle, or 12... especially if you have kids.

I remember several years ago seeing a company that made solid billet aluminum door handles for these rigs but they don't appear to be available anymore, at least it couldn't find them.

What I did find was these...

They still have the plastic ends but the threaded inserts used to bolt them to the door appear to be deeper than stock and the actual handle is solid metal so the hinge portion along with the mechanism that actuates the rod is all metal.

I installed them yesterday and had to slightly adjust the arm that connects to the rod because it was keeping just a little too much pressure on the rod and the lock wouldn't open after being engaged. Kind of like when someone pulls the handle at the same time you are unlocking the door.

After adjusting the arm slightly the handle work great.

I will say that the spring is stronger and the handles them selves are substantially heavier than the OEM.

Of course at this point I have no long term use on them but they just feel heavy duty compared to the originals.

No pics because they look exactly the same as stock when installed.

They also sell them for the GMT800 as well apparently, just FYI for anyone who may be in need. I have never personally owned an 800 so I'm not sure if they suffer from the same issue.
 

Doubeleive

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Anyone that has owned a GMT900 for any length of time has probably had to replace a door handle, or 12... especially if you have kids.

I remember several years ago seeing a company that made solid billet aluminum door handles for these rigs but they don't appear to be available anymore, at least it couldn't find them.

What I did find was these...

They still have the plastic ends but the threaded inserts used to bolt them to the door appear to be deeper than stock and the actual handle is solid metal so the hinge portion along with the mechanism that actuates the rod is all metal.

I installed them yesterday and had to slightly adjust the arm that connects to the rod because it was keeping just a little too much pressure on the rod and the lock wouldn't open after being engaged. Kind of like when someone pulls the handle at the same time you are unlocking the door.

After adjusting the arm slightly the handle work great.

I will say that the spring is stronger and the handles them selves are substantially heavier than the OEM.

Of course at this point I have no long term use on them but they just feel heavy duty compared to the originals.

No pics because they look exactly the same as stock when installed.

They also sell them for the GMT800 as well apparently, just FYI for anyone who may be in need. I have never personally owned an 800 so I'm not sure if they suffer from the same issue.
so.... is the pull handle all one piece metal? or is the inside edge different with a lip edge and therefore prone to peeling where it curves towards the rear.
mine have never broke but some of the chrome is cracking/peeling on the rear curve which happens to all handle eventually IF they do not break first.
nearly every single one found in the junkyards is like this unless the door was rarely used or someone replaced it already.
 

Tonyrodz

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Anyone that has owned a GMT900 for any length of time has probably had to replace a door handle, or 12... especially if you have kids.

I remember several years ago seeing a company that made solid billet aluminum door handles for these rigs but they don't appear to be available anymore, at least it couldn't find them.

What I did find was these...

They still have the plastic ends but the threaded inserts used to bolt them to the door appear to be deeper than stock and the actual handle is solid metal so the hinge portion along with the mechanism that actuates the rod is all metal.

I installed them yesterday and had to slightly adjust the arm that connects to the rod because it was keeping just a little too much pressure on the rod and the lock wouldn't open after being engaged. Kind of like when someone pulls the handle at the same time you are unlocking the door.

After adjusting the arm slightly the handle work great.

I will say that the spring is stronger and the handles them selves are substantially heavier than the OEM.

Of course at this point I have no long term use on them but they just feel heavy duty compared to the originals.

No pics because they look exactly the same as stock when installed.

They also sell them for the GMT800 as well apparently, just FYI for anyone who may be in need. I have never personally owned an 800 so I'm not sure if they suffer from the same issue.
I bet it'll be fun to open the door during the summer if it's had direct sunlight beaming on it all day. Just like the good old days lol.
 

Scrappycrow

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@dkad260 got a link for that adhesive weather strip you got there?
Once the size is narrowed down, I'd suggest refining the properties and getting it from McMaster-Carr's "foam" category. I did this when I had to r&r the sunroof cassette in my Gen 3 Camry and no one except them had the strips with the correct properties; I ultimately decided to stack two different P/Ns with the same size, but different density to conform and have the right "squish." Importantly, make sure the foam is rated for outdoor use -- a lot of it you get at hardware stores isn't and it'll crumble after a short while.

I bet it'll be fun to open the door during the summer if it's had direct sunlight beaming on it all day. Just like the good old days lol.
This is one reason I chose boring old white for my Tahoe -- a significant reduction in solar gain here in the South. My black-on-black '79 AMC Spirit has metal handles (you know the ubiquitous AMC inset levers) which get brutally hot -- I basically have to resort to a "reverse slap" to not burn myself sometimes.
 

dkad260

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@dkad260 got a link for that adhesive weather strip you got there?
I believe this is it.

White:



Black:

 

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