What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

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How is that even possible if adding LT headers - effectively letting the engine breath a ton better right off the cylinder heads - instantly increases HP/TQ across the entire RPM range?

I don't want to start another "backpressure is needed" debate, because it's not a debate, and has been debunked many times.
I guess I missed the LT header part of the discussion. I can tell you with stock manifolds, or shorty headers like I have, getting rid of the cats makes for a noticeable loss of bottom end power. It has less to do with back pressure and more to do with losing heat which slows the exhaust gases down and therefore it doesn't scavenge as well. Reducing the diameter of the Y-pipe doesn't allow the exhaust gases to expand so rapidly, which means the gases can't cool as fast, so it keeps the velocity of the gases higher creating more scavenging. At least that is what my research after the fact shows. All I know is having a smaller diameter Y-pipe made restored the bottom end power. Now the argument could be made, I guess, that I somehow have restricted the flow for optimal top end performance. To that I say, I don't really care as this is a 6k lb brick and I spend more time below 4k rpm then I do winding it out to 6k rpm.

To each their own, I was just relaying real world experience to try and save someone else the aggravation.
 

j91z28d1

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ugh. noticed my right front tire is showing some Feathering on the outside is less than 10k miles. I knew they didn't actually do the alignment I paid for, but since it went straight I got side tracked and forgot about it. blah guess I Gotta handle that and rotate them to the back or something.


annoying, I literally hate shops. even good ones are awful. maybe I'll just get out the string and do it myself
 

j91z28d1

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I guess I missed the LT header part of the discussion. I can tell you with stock manifolds, or shorty headers like I have, getting rid of the cats makes for a noticeable loss of bottom end power. It has less to do with back pressure and more to do with losing heat which slows the exhaust gases down and therefore it doesn't scavenge as well. Reducing the diameter of the Y-pipe doesn't allow the exhaust gases to expand so rapidly, which means the gases can't cool as fast, so it keeps the velocity of the gases higher creating more scavenging. At least that is what my research after the fact shows. All I know is having a smaller diameter Y-pipe made restored the bottom end power. Now the argument could be made, I guess, that I somehow have restricted the flow for optimal top end performance. To that I say, I don't really care as this is a 6k lb brick and I spend more time below 4k rpm then I do winding it out to 6k rpm.

To each their own, I was just relaying real world experience to try and save someone else the aggravation.


alot of times louder feels slower too. especially at part throttle as they drone alone.

atleast to my old or ears haha. I tend to like really quiet daily
 
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89Suburban

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ugh. noticed my right front tire is showing some Feathering on the outside is less than 10k miles. I knew they didn't actually do the alignment I paid for, but since it went straight I got side tracked and forgot about it. blah guess I Gotta handle that and rotate them to the back or something.


annoying, I literally hate shops. even good ones are awful. maybe I'll just get out the string and do it myself
Make some toe plates like I did.
 

Grady_Wilson

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ugh. noticed my right front tire is showing some Feathering on the outside is less than 10k miles. I knew they didn't actually do the alignment I paid for, but since it went straight I got side tracked and forgot about it. blah guess I Gotta handle that and rotate them to the back or something.


annoying, I literally hate shops. even good ones are awful. maybe I'll just get out the string and do it myself
I have to find a good shop out my way, back in So Cal I found one that did great work and I had them do all my alignments.
They were honest and did great work.
So honest that when the step son bought a couple year old used car and he took in for an alignment, after a few hours they called him back to pick it up, when he got there they told him it was in spec so no alignment needed, no charge.
They didn't even charge him for the time it took them to setup the machine and get the initial readings.
 

j91z28d1

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I have to find a good shop out my way, back in So Cal I found one that did great work and I had them do all my alignments.
They were honest and did great work.
So honest that when the step son bought a couple year old used car and he took in for an alignment, after a few hours they called him back to pick it up, when he got there they told him it was in spec so no alignment needed, no charge.
They didn't even charge him for the time it took them to setup the machine and get the initial readings.


man I need to find that shop. sadly what I've found sound moving to tx is everyone seems to have their hand out trying to get something for nothing.
 

j91z28d1

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Make some toe plates like I did.


I have toe plate with camber gauge as well as turn plates. the problem is my garage floor isn't flat. foundation "settling" they call it around tx haha. plus not being on a lift it's almost impossible to reach any of the adjustments without jacking it up, which throws every off. even then I find string easier to get a visual. I was hoping to avoid all that and just pay someone that. keep that for my projects.


blah
 

Pandabird

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You should replace those tee's and the heater hose nipple where it is crimped. They are 3 separate parts and a major PITA. But if one of them let's go on the road that is worst, bad news bears.
Sorry but I got a bit hung up on that third part you mentioned. HVAC Tees you mentioned in multiples so I assume it's best to swap both, there's a 113mm and a 111mm version and i'm confused if I should get one of each or two of a kind. Then connectors were seemingly sold in pairs and that's where my math brain said ****. Trying to avoid ordering a full overseas pallet of different combinations, so what's the reasoning behind the different sized tees and does it matter somehow?
 

89Suburban

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Sorry but I got a bit hung up on that third part you mentioned. HVAC Tees you mentioned in multiples so I assume it's best to swap both, there's a 113mm and a 111mm version and i'm confused if I should get one of each or two of a kind. Then connectors were seemingly sold in pairs and that's where my math brain said ****. Trying to avoid ordering a full overseas pallet of different combinations, so what's the reasoning behind the different sized tees and does it matter somehow?

List of parts in this post:



Picture of how they should be installed. I used a utility knife to cut away some of that firewall matting to make more room to access that tight spot.



img_4917-jpg.jpg
 

Pandabird

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List of parts in this post:



Picture of how they should be installed. I used a utility knife to cut away some of that firewall matting to make more room to access that tight spot.

Thanks! Gonna try this as a winter project, I've started hearing a weird single loud knock or pop sound during cold starts from the passenger side (note, it only sounds one single time about one and a half minute after ignition). Thought it was coming from the right front wheel since i'm usually making my way from the parking lot by then and just when I'm about to make a turn i feel that one *pop* sound. But this last time it was idling in park when I heard (and sorta felt) it
 
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mikez71

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A/C compressor cycling on?
Or worn balljoint maybe?
 
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mikez71

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so what's the reasoning behind the different sized tees and does it matter somehow?
Lots of cars have been like this for awhile. Not sure exactly why, but probably to help with the flow. Larger hose on water pump suction side.
Have heard mention of it minimizing gurgling sounds in the core. idk..
 

Pandabird

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A/C compressor cycling on?
Or worn balljoint maybe?
Actually haven't had the AC on for a while but it's worn for sure, constant whiny sound when toggled. Since stuff still spins around even when turned off that could actually be it. I suspected the AC clutch but I bet I gotta take the belt off and spin things by hand if i'm making a full day project under the hood anyways. The original comment was about a burnt looking tee-connector and now I'm already adding belts and tensioners to my order. Love it!:D
 

j91z28d1

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Lots of cars have been like this for awhile. Not sure exactly why, but probably to help with the flow. Larger hose on water pump suction side.
Have heard mention of it minimizing gurgling sounds in the core. idk..


I think it's just so they don't put the wrong hose on the wrong pipe. during assembly haha
 

mikez71

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I think it's just so they don't put the wrong hose on the wrong pipe. during assembly haha
Have heard that too!

But then, what difference does it make if it's backwards when the hoses are the same size?
It goes through the heater core backwards? Shouldn't matter?
 

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