What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[j91z28d1]

anyone come up with a better than stock air box for cooler intake air Temps.. it's not even hot here yet, I think 106 index today and see air Temps of 120 while stopped and drop to 116 rolling.

ls engines hate hot air. I'm half curious if some heat tape would help but seems like I need to get some cool outside air into black the fender baking in the sun.

I mean it could worse but would be nice if it was better

 

[Charlie207]

anyone come up with a better than stock air box for cooler intake air Temps.. it's not even hot here yet, I think 106 index today and see air Temps of 120 while stopped and drop to 116 rolling.

ls engines hate hot air. I'm half curious if some heat tape would help but seems like I need to get some cool outside air into black the fender baking in the sun.

I mean it could worse but would be nice if it was better

The oldschool turbo guys would take a wiper fluid tank, and plumb it into the intake for a DIY water/meth injection system with a TPS for whatever position you wanted it to kick on.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

anyone come up with a better than stock air box for cooler intake air Temps.. it's not even hot here yet, I think 106 index today and see air Temps of 120 while stopped and drop to 116 rolling.

ls engines hate hot air. I'm half curious if some heat tape would help but seems like I need to get some cool outside air into black the fender baking in the sun.

I mean it could worse but would be nice if it was better

I got the corsa intake and put gold tape all over it and wrapped the ducting, and it made no difference from the stock junk.
That said, all of my radiator baffles are blown out/rotten so I'm sure my engine bay sees some weird air

 

[j91z28d1]

The oldschool turbo guys would take a wiper fluid tank, and plumb it into the intake for a DIY water/meth injection system with a TPS for whatever position you wanted it to kick on.

yeah. I guess water injection would work. I wasn't thinking that drastic of a measure just to avoid buying 93 haha. but yeah, definitely could.

 

[j91z28d1]

I got the corsa intake and put gold tape all over it and wrapped the ducting, and it made no difference from the stock junk.
That said, all of my radiator baffles are blown out/rotten so I'm sure my engine bay sees some weird air

I was standing there looking at it and thinking, while all the heat tricks might help get the air from the maf to the engine without adding any heat. the temp sensor is in the maf, so all that would be guessing. the stock plastic is probably pretty good at not transferring heat to the moving air anyways. or at least as good as some thin tape wrapped around it.


I feel like I need to get some cooler air to the box itself. anyone know where the ambient air temperature sensor that's displayed on the dash is? I feel like matching that temp would be the best I could hope for.


on the radiator baffle note, when I got it both were good. Just saw today the drivers side is ripped up falling apart. guess I need to do something with that too.

 

[mikez71]

The outside temp sensor is in front of radiator on a little bracket more on the passenger side I believe..

Looks like it can be either driver or passenger side depending on options.

 

[j91z28d1]

The outside temp sensor is in front of radiator on a little bracket more on the passenger side I believe..

Looks like it can be either driver or passenger side depending on options.
View attachment 431301

oh nice.. I'll look for it when I have it apart for the baffles.

my going thought is there's 2 holes in the bottom of my air box, I have some left over 2 in hose from building brake ducts on my c6. if I can find a nice way to pick up some outside air to route to it.

what I need to do it make sure both air temp sensors match first thing in the morning after sitting overnight. Temps should equalize. but ugh, at 4am zombie mode I'm struggling to do extra stuff like pull out scanners. haha

 

[gooffeyguy]

The oldschool turbo guys would take a wiper fluid tank, and plumb it into the intake for a DIY water/meth injection system with a TPS for whatever position you wanted it to kick on.

Don't forget old school supercharger guys too

 

[Charlie207]

Don't forget old school supercharger guys too

We'd also spray the intercooler under WOT. Did you guys run ICs? Or, were you just doing 1/8 or 1/4 mile stuff?

 

[Runfor5]

Changed the trans fluid on my '14 over the past ~24 hours. I was fairly clean until it came time to flex the exhaust pipe out the way to get the back end of the pan out LOL. I followed a YouTube video, but will note on my '14 I did not have to remove the shift cable linkage; it was not blocking access to any of the trans pan bolts.

18, 10mm bolts hold the pan on. I removed the gasket prior to fiddling with flexing the exhaust pipe slightly to slide the rear of the pan out.
I elected to not fool with the metal retainer ring that holds on the trans filter. I just pushed up in there my new one. I used the OEM ACDelco filter, fluid, and pan gasket.

Fluid had clearly been changed before by PO, as the magnet was quite clean (pic below) and the bolts + old gasket came off no troubles. Cleaned and painted the pan while off with Rustoleum Enamel spray can (silver).

On re-install, I found it easier to twist the pan up and into position, THEN I slipped the pan gasket through and on. The gasket on initially with pan was too thick to get past the exhaust piping. I got about 5.5 quarts + whatever residual in old filter (so nearly 6?), out of the system by doing this.

 

[gooffeyguy]

We'd also spray the intercooler under WOT. Did you guys run ICs? Or, were you just doing 1/8 or 1/4 mile stuff?

I don't have an intercooler on my mustang with the Vortech, mainly because plumbing it is a nightmare with my intake and throttle body location. That's the main reason I use meth injection at the blower discharge. Plus the Vortech runs cooler than many other brand centrifical blowers to start with.

Earlier Fox bodied mustang setups are easier to run an intercooler, as well as the '96+ 4.6l models due to blower location.

I could run an intercooler if I switched to a fox style intake setup, which would include a different intake manifold and throttle body, but I like my Cobra intake manifold that's custom ported to my heads and the meth injection works for my needs. It's boost referenced and is variable, so under low boost it sprays less and increases as boost increases.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Changed the trans fluid on my '14 over the past ~24 hours. I was fairly clean until it came time to flex the exhaust pipe out the way to get the back end of the pan out LOL. I followed a YouTube video, but will note on my '14 I did not have to remove the shift cable linkage; it was not blocking access to any of the trans pan bolts.

18, 10mm bolts hold the pan on. I removed the gasket prior to fiddling with flexing the exhaust pipe slightly to slide the rear of the pan out.
I elected to not fool with the metal retainer ring that holds on the trans filter. I just pushed up in there my new one. I used the OEM ACDelco filter, fluid, and pan gasket.

Fluid had clearly been changed before by PO, as the magnet was quite clean (pic below) and the bolts + old gasket came off no troubles. Cleaned and painted the pan while off with Rustoleum Enamel spray can (silver).

On re-install, I found it easier to twist the pan up and into position, THEN I slipped the pan gasket through and on. The gasket on initially with pan was too thick to get past the exhaust piping. I got about 5.5 quarts + whatever residual in old filter (so nearly 6?), out of the system by doing this.

View attachment 431329
View attachment 431330
View attachment 431332

I've found it helpful when dropping the pan to use an evacuator or fluids pump with the line ran down through the trans dipstick tube to suck out most of the fluid from the pan first.

 

[89Suburban]

I've found it helpful when dropping the pan to use an evacuator or fluids pump with the line ran down through the trans dipstick tube to suck out most of the fluid from the pan first.

Speaking of which, the last time I used my extractor was to remove antifreeze from my daughter's car. I left the antifreeze in it for about 3 months. When I went to go use it again recently I went to pump vacuum and the handle/plunger assembly went limp and loose. I went to unscrew the lid off the extractor to investigate and it was like it was fused onto it. After some hard wrestling, cussing and a mallet I finally got the lid to unscrew but it was very tight the whole way off. It was like the threaded top of the tank was expanded.

Once I got it apart I saw the plunger casing somehow fell off the threaded base. When I went to screw it back on it just acts like it strips on the threads. The casing was not cracked but it seemed expanded as well and would not thread tight onto the housing. I believe leaving the antifreeze in there for such a prolonged period affected the plastic parts and my extractor is basically ruined now.

So after getting bit by this $100 loss of a tool I recommend emptying your extractor after every use. It's a fkn shame because I never had this issue in the 4 years I have owned it.

Amazon.com

 

[j91z28d1]

The outside temp sensor is in front of radiator on a little bracket more on the passenger side I believe..

Looks like it can be either driver or passenger side depending on options.
View attachment 431301

I had. completely forgotten the temp on the havc and dash are a crazy filtered one to avoid the showing the head soak numbers. this morning I checked and it was way different then the intake air Temps before starting it. later I found the ambient temp in the scanner. Will compare another day.

mine also has a 5/8 tranny hard line run 2 inch under it. so that seems silly haha, guess the non hybrids don't have that pipe there.



ended up make a new driver side baffle. kinda a hassle, I should have just pulled the headlight and battery first. would have been faster.





while out I load checked my 2 year old Delco agm 760cca battery, still tested at 737. so I guess it's doing OK with the flooded charge routine. it's only a 36 month battery.

 

[Charlie207]

I had. completely forgotten the temp on the havc and dash are a crazy filtered one to avoid the showing the head soak numbers. this morning I checked and it was way different then the intake air Temps before starting it. later I found the ambient temp in the scanner. Will compare another day.

mine also has a 5/8 tranny hard line run 2 inch under it. so that seems silly haha, guess the non hybrids don't have that pipe there.



ended up make a new driver side baffle. kinda a hassle, I should have just pulled the headlight and battery first. would have been faster.
View attachment 431335

View attachment 431338
View attachment 431337

while out I load checked my 2 year old Delco agm 760cca battery, still tested at 737. so I guess it's doing OK with the flooded charge routine. it's only a 36 month battery.

View attachment 431336

I need to remake my baffles. It never really gets hot enough here to matter, but I'm sure it would be better.

 

[Runfor5]

I've found it helpful when dropping the pan to use an evacuator or fluids pump with the line ran down through the trans dipstick tube to suck out most of the fluid from the pan first.

Great idea, my clothes would have greatly appreciated doing that beforehand haha

 

[89Suburban]

I had. completely forgotten the temp on the havc and dash are a crazy filtered one to avoid the showing the head soak numbers. this morning I checked and it was way different then the intake air Temps before starting it. later I found the ambient temp in the scanner. Will compare another day.

mine also has a 5/8 tranny hard line run 2 inch under it. so that seems silly haha, guess the non hybrids don't have that pipe there.



ended up make a new driver side baffle. kinda a hassle, I should have just pulled the headlight and battery first. would have been faster.
View attachment 431335

View attachment 431338
View attachment 431337

while out I load checked my 2 year old Delco agm 760cca battery, still tested at 737. so I guess it's doing OK with the flooded charge routine. it's only a 36 month battery.

View attachment 431336

I need to remake my baffles. It never really gets hot enough here to matter, but I'm sure it would be better.

Made mine out of this sh*t. Works good. I think @Sparksalot did too.

Amazon.com

 

[Runfor5]

Considering removal of the front diff (assuming easy, keep reading) in order for ease of oil cooler and trans cooler lines + a leaking axle seal on passenger side (slide hammer did not work so believe case may have to be split in half to access). Silly perhaps but bear with me.

My Denali is AWD - full-time, not the selectable hi/low 4WD unit. I've watched the below video a few times, and it seems (dare I say it?) easy... mind you this appears to be a 4WD front diff unit not AWD based on the wiring connection (*correct me if I'm wrong though).

Does anyone know if there any special considerations for removing the AWD front diff unit vs that of a 4WD one, which may/may not be contemplated by this video?

 

[Charlie207]

Made mine out of this sh*t. Works good. I think @Sparksalot did too.

Amazon.com

Is there a template anywhere?

 

[89Suburban]

Is there a template anywhere?

No just cut it to fit it's pretty easy to work with. You can make a template out of cardboard I guess if yours is missing.