What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Fless

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Today was a day of waxing and polishing my 2001 Tahoe. I used Meguiar’s Ultimate Polish and Wax to get a good shine and cleaning before winter gets here. I used my Ryobi orbital detailer to apply the Polish and wax.

I have owned this Tahoe since July, 2001 and I polish and wax it every 6 months to keep the Forest Green color shine in good shape.

Love that color!
 

6speedblazer

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Ordered a couple hvac control panel bulb sets as bulbs in my Denali keep dying and one in my escalade is out.
 

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6speedblazer

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FIxed the tailgate lock on my Escalade EXT yesterday. When trying to lock it felt and sounded like nails on a chalkboard and felt like the key was going to snap. So i shot some lube in on the lock cylinder with no real change. Pulled the bezel off and realized it was the lock mechanism that the lock cylinder moves back and forth.

Drenched most of the internal assembly with some PB blaster and now its smooth like butter.
 

svrh89

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been awhile since i have updated on this forum. recently done some services on my yukon xl to get ready for the winter season. did all the oils, brakes/rotors, steering gear box, front hub assembly, drivers cv axel, some boost auto tow mirrors, fixed some issues with my fog lights, fixed my rear defrosters, and cleaned it very thoroughly. here's a photo of how it currently sits.
 

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SilverSport

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after a trip to Menards I had my glass hatch decide to close on my head after giving me no heads up ;) the struts were failing prior to the head bang...

a quick visit to RockAuto.com and I bought new STRONGARM struts for the glass hatch as well as the hatch door itself...

about $50 lighter in the wallet but the struts seem to work great and were easy enough to install...

Bill
 

ncalvo

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Figured out why the back doors quit locking and unlocking. Dirty contacts in the relays on the driver side of the dash. A little sandpaper work and they are back in business.
my driver side door lock button doesn't work, i've taken it apart and cleaned the board but didn't work
Ill have to try this
 

ScottyBoy

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my driver side door lock button doesn't work, i've taken it apart and cleaned the board but didn't work
Ill have to try this
I had an issue with my driver's side door lock button not working. It turned out to be a bad connection at one of the door harness plugs, where it plugs into the fuse block under the dash. I happened to be messing with it with the door open and it started working. Then it quit once I shut the door. That was the clue that led me to check that harness. I began wiggling the harness and plugs, and I narrowed it down to the brown plug. If I unplugged it and plugged it back in, it would work for a day or two. I finally just cut a plug off another truck in the junkyard and spliced it on to my harness. I "could" have replaced the entire door harness, but I did it the lazy way and just spliced in another pigtail. I used the heat and seal butt splice connectors, then wrapped it tightly in tape, fed it back into the dash and plugged it back into the bottom of the fuse panel. Its been working fine ever since, and that was well over 2 years ago now.
 

4Eyedturd

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Yukon had developed a knock if I idled for an extended period of time. It has slowly gotten worse while maintaining 40psi oil pressure. So I decided on an oil pump and cam retainer plate while changing all the associated seals and checking the rod bearings. All the rod bearings looked great but it looks like oil changes were not a priority. I spent more time cleaning sludge than disassembly. It’s back together with 50psi of oil pressure at idle, a lot less sludge inside and fresh seals that don’t leak.
IMG_4740.jpeg
 

S33k3r

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Yukon had developed a knock if I idled for an extended period of time. It has slowly gotten worse while maintaining 40psi oil pressure. So I decided on an oil pump and cam retainer plate while changing all the associated seals and checking the rod bearings. All the rod bearings looked great but it looks like oil changes were not a priority. I spent more time cleaning sludge than disassembly. It’s back together with 50psi of oil pressure at idle, a lot less sludge inside and fresh seals that don’t leak.
What weight oil will you be running?
 

treehan77

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Had to replace the spiral cable to fix Service Airbag message on the DIC. Noticed the message would disappear in certain steering wheel positions. I could only clear the code in that position also, otherwise it came back immediately. Went ahead and replaced torn shift boot while I was there. Then replaced both rear air actuators, since the rear was stuck on COLD and ceiling vents.

 

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S33k3r

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Fun stuff in my household: Had our mechanic inspect the Escalade for a trip my wife and daughter's are taking (I'm minding the animals while they are gone). Today I am waiting for him to finish rebuilding the front suspension... It is a mechanic I 100% trust, and will refer anyone who has passing interest in a mechanic to. It's supposed to be done this afternoon so they can start their trip by 5.

And this was, I guess a month ago now:

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Here's what the drunk man with no license or insurance was driving / what is left of his vehicle:

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My wife got his information and then left the scene because she was frightened of him. He was drunk and mentioned that he couldn't get another DUI...

Did I mention she drove away? How about she has driven it almost every day since then; she loves her suburban and won't take it out of action for me to get it fixed!!!

Next up, my 2007 Silverado. I *finally* got the wiring harnesses to replace the tail light harnesses that no longer would hold bulbs. I technically didn't need the whole harnesses, but I couldn't figure out how to just order the receptacles. Fortunately, the harnesses were not spendy.

In replacing the harnesses, I discovered remnants of the original harnesses! So this was the second time the harnesses had been replaced.
 

13JRomee

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Heating and A/C issues on the '02 Hoe 5'3L.
Tackled the heating 1st as it is a priority. The factory plastic outboard/fender side T connection at the firewall had begun leaking. I sprung for the Dorman metal T connections. The inboard/engine side was pretty easy to remove. The outboard/fender side T was challenging. I was unable to remove by squeezing the plastic release/lock tabs. So I used my Dremel electric hot iron tool to melt thru the plastic on 90-degree phasing. A little patience and perseverance creative thinking.
We need air conditioning even now in late November. Last week the connection at the pressure switch and accumulator began slowly leaking. Long and short of it I loathe doing A/C work. I have the tools to do the work just hate messing with it. Seems there's always something more with an A/C system. Discovery of shorted wires at the pressure switch plus when I finally was able to remove the orifice plain as day there were metal shavings on the old orifice.
I'm going to block off the rear A/C it has not worked since buying the vehicle earlier this year. The dash A/C has been frosty cold except when sitting still. Yup I'm shopping for the new components compressor, accumulator, condenser, evaporator... fun times ahead. The A/C is working again I don't expect it to last long.
 

Mudsport96

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Brakes.... man live my daughter, but sometimes....
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Me: Jesus, how long has it looked like this and when did it start making noise?
Her: I didn't notice that color till you said something just now. But it just started making noise...like 2 weeks ago"
Me: why did you not call me about it?
Her: i didn't notice anything out of the ordinary
Me: I just moved it in the driveway, and it barely stops!
Her: Oh yeah i just drive slower.
Me: You and your mother are going to be why I die of a stress heart attack.
 

strutaeng

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Fun stuff in my household: Had our mechanic inspect the Escalade for a trip my wife and daughter's are taking (I'm minding the animals while they are gone). Today I am waiting for him to finish rebuilding the front suspension... It is a mechanic I 100% trust, and will refer anyone who has passing interest in a mechanic to. It's supposed to be done this afternoon so they can start their trip by 5.

And this was, I guess a month ago now:

View attachment 472550View attachment 472551View attachment 472552View attachment 472553View attachment 472554


Here's what the drunk man with no license or insurance was driving / what is left of his vehicle:

View attachment 472555


My wife got his information and then left the scene because she was frightened of him. He was drunk and mentioned that he couldn't get another DUI...

Did I mention she drove away? How about she has driven it almost every day since then; she loves her suburban and won't take it out of action for me to get it fixed!!!

Next up, my 2007 Silverado. I *finally* got the wiring harnesses to replace the tail light harnesses that no longer would hold bulbs. I technically didn't need the whole harnesses, but I couldn't figure out how to just order the receptacles. Fortunately, the harnesses were not spendy.

In replacing the harnesses, I discovered remnants of the original harnesses! So this was the second time the harnesses had been replaced.
Sorry to hear about your wife's Suburban...

Do you know the extent of the damage? I don't see any body panels damaged.

I was crawling under my 06 Suburban the other day trying to replace the jounce stops and noticed some welds at the very end of the frame...I'm guessing it was rear ended at some point in it's life like yours?
 

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