What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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S33k3r

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Heating and A/C issues on the '02 Hoe 5'3L.
Tackled the heating 1st as it is a priority. The factory plastic outboard/fender side T connection at the firewall had begun leaking. I sprung for the Dorman metal T connections. The inboard/engine side was pretty easy to remove. The outboard/fender side T was challenging. I was unable to remove by squeezing the plastic release/lock tabs. So I used my Dremel electric hot iron tool to melt thru the plastic on 90-degree phasing. A little patience and perseverance creative thinking.
We need air conditioning even now in late November. Last week the connection at the pressure switch and accumulator began slowly leaking. Long and short of it I loathe doing A/C work. I have the tools to do the work just hate messing with it. Seems there's always something more with an A/C system. Discovery of shorted wires at the pressure switch plus when I finally was able to remove the orifice plain as day there were metal shavings on the old orifice.
I'm going to block off the rear A/C it has not worked since buying the vehicle earlier this year. The dash A/C has been frosty cold except when sitting still. Yup I'm shopping for the new components compressor, accumulator, condenser, evaporator... fun times ahead. The A/C is working again I don't expect it to last long.
Do you have the tools to refill your AC system? Have you looked at the price for new coolant? I live out in Texas, and I have a trusted mechanic and his labor is not a lot more than the cost of the coolant.
 

S33k3r

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Brakes.... man live my daughter, but sometimes.... View attachment 472636

Me: Jesus, how long has it looked like this and when did it start making noise?
Her: I didn't notice that color till you said something just now. But it just started making noise...like 2 weeks ago"
Me: why did you not call me about it?
Her: i didn't notice anything out of the ordinary
Me: I just moved it in the driveway, and it barely stops!
Her: Oh yeah i just drive slower.
Me: You and your mother are going to be why I die of a stress heart attack.
I feel doubly blessed, then! Only my wife behaves like this. If my daughters think they have an issue, they call me an give me the symptoms. If the money light comes on, they take it to Autozone and get the code read and give me that information, too. My wife, on the other hand, will have something wrong with her car, and then not ever let me take it to fix it/get it fixed.
 

S33k3r

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Sorry to hear about your wife's Suburban...

Do you know the extent of the damage? I don't see any body panels damaged.

I was crawling under my 06 Suburban the other day trying to replace the jounce stops and noticed some welds at the very end of the frame...I'm guessing it was rear ended at some point in it's life like yours?
I don't think there's any frame damage, but I haven't gone underneath it. I'm fairly sure the trailer hitch took all the damage, plus the bumper. The hatch isn't even damaged -- though it may have some scratched pain. Very happy with that vehicle.
 

Mudsport96

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I feel doubly blessed, then! Only my wife behaves like this. If my daughters think they have an issue, they call me an give me the symptoms. If the money light comes on, they take it to Autozone and get the code read and give me that information, too. My wife, on the other hand, will have something wrong with her car, and then not ever let me take it to fix it/get it fixed.
Usually she is really good about it, and calls with the slightest noise or when the CEL pops on.
 

latvius

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Drove the wifes Denali and thought it had more road noise than usual. Then started to hear a grinding noise when braking, funny thing was it sounded like the drivers side but on the passengers side one pad was down to the rivets, the other 3 all looked the same as in the picture bout a 1/4 inch of pad.
This is the same vehicle that the previous owner/mechanic put a 4 foot long spark plug wire and a a/c condenser from a non rear a/c as replacement parts (I had fun figuring out why my new correct sized condesor wouldn't fit right). I think thier mechanic had a junkyard and just got old parts, wouldn't surprise me if the pads were pieced together from a used vehicle when I got it.

Oh well time for pads and rotors and I think the axleshaft seal is leaking.

20251130_114441.jpg20251130_114507.jpg
 

mountie

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I usually drive my ’05 Yukon XL with the radio on….. This time it’s off…..
Today, making another ‘test drive’ after cleaning my throttle body & MAF sensor, I hear a sort of quiet, creaking sound in the rear area, as I make a slow - sharp turn. I wonder how long that noise has been there? I have no clue what could be causing it.
 
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latvius

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I had taken off the front axle of my Tahoe some years ago and I remember it was short. So I needed to take off the passenger axle of my Denali so I watched some ytube vids to refresh my memory and I wasn't paying attention to the ones I watched were the drivers side (foreshadowing).
So I pop the axle loose and as I pull it just keeps coming out until it's almost out but the shock is in the way. So I remove the shocl, then the sway bar is in the way to I remove the links and pull it out of the way, then the control arm is in the way and I said, no not gonna remove that. Back to the internet I go. So all the videos I could find are of trucks and the axle tube all has springs and washers and stuff in it. So I thought I better put the axle back in so when I pull the tube it all doesn't come dropping out.
Well the AWD Denali doesn't have any of that stuff, just an axle.
The seal comes in tomorrow in the mail and I have to go buy some anerobic sealant since it's aluminium, or at least that's what's recomended.

20251201_135923.jpg
 

clandr1

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On Monday I replaced my high mount brake light (for the third time, I think) and last night I replaced my factory original turn signal switch (it was turning on the high beams every time I turned on the right turn signal). Cost was $18 for an aftermarket DOT stamped brake light and $160 for a Genuine GM turn signal assembly.
 

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Tonyrodz

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On Monday I replaced my high mount brake light (for the third time, I think) and last night I replaced my factory original turn signal switch (it was turning on the high beams every time I turned on the right turn signal). Cost was $18 for an aftermarket DOT stamped brake light and $160 for a Genuine GM turn signal assembly.
My turn signal switch is doing the exact same thing, right turn switch=high beams. Did they have an aftermarket switch available? Amazon?
 

clandr1

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My turn signal switch is doing the exact same thing, right turn switch=high beams. Did they have an aftermarket switch available? Amazon?
I ended up getting a Genuine GM part from Summit Racing. I’m that weird guy who doesn’t always trust aftermarket parts and figured the OEM switch was worth it since it lasted me 20 years :)
 

6speedblazer

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Did a couple things this morning. Finally put together a battery tender that plugs into the trailer plug. Made one for my escalade and one for my Trailblazer SS. No more poping the hood and putting on alligator clamps.

Then I replaced the bulbs in the hvac on my denali. Only 4 worked and it bugged me. Now i just have to wait for dark to really see the results. I didnt take a picture but i did test it before reassembly to make sure i didnt mess up. I ordered 2 kits, will do the escalade one here soon. Its currently only down one bulb, but at 20 years old its only a matter of time.
 

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Fless

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Did a couple things this morning. Finally put together a battery tender that plugs into the trailer plug. Made one for my escalade and one for my Trailblazer SS. No more poping the hood and putting on alligator clamps.

Then I replaced the bulbs in the hvac on my denali. Only 4 worked and it bugged me. Now i just have to wait for dark to really see the results. I didnt take a picture but i did test it before reassembly to make sure i didnt mess up. I ordered 2 kits, will do the escalade one here soon. Its currently only down one bulb, but at 20 years old its only a matter of time.

Did that to mine a few years back: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...s-gmt800-tahoe-yukon-today.12502/post-1799713

The "after" pics are a few posts down from that one.
 

Tonyrodz

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Did a couple things this morning. Finally put together a battery tender that plugs into the trailer plug. Made one for my escalade and one for my Trailblazer SS. No more poping the hood and putting on alligator clamps.

Then I replaced the bulbs in the hvac on my denali. Only 4 worked and it bugged me. Now i just have to wait for dark to really see the results. I didnt take a picture but i did test it before reassembly to make sure i didnt mess up. I ordered 2 kits, will do the escalade one here soon. Its currently only down one bulb, but at 20 years old its only a matter of time.
The trickler through the trailer plug is a great idea. How'd you do it?
 

Tonyrodz

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Standard battery tender with an sae plug. Then a 10 foot sae extender and then a 7 pin to sae adapter.

My stuff stuff sits a lot so I keep everything but the daily on a battery tender.
I also have mine on a tender. I need to buy another for the Mustang--since it's tucked in for the winter.
 

Fless

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The trickler through the trailer plug is a great idea. How'd you do it?

Easy. Use a 7-pin trailer-side connector and wire the tender to the 12v and ground contacts, observing polarity. As long as the connection to the fusebox post for the trailer (hotel) power has been made (and the JCase fuse inserted), the tender current will flow to the battery. That's an "always on" circuit.

I would, however, recommend disconnecting the tender before using the key in the vehicle (on accy, run, or start).

1764972020429.png
 
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clandr1

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My 20 year old blower motor was occasionally chirping, I assume because the bearings were at end of life, so I changed out the assembly with an aftermarket part. We’ll see how long this one lasts. Not too bad of a project: only took about 20 minutes to swap.
 

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