Valve Covers, AFM Deflector, Oil Consumption TSB 10-60-10-008M

[donjetman]

I'm a new guy here. While watching a utube video today about removing the oil pan, they talked about TSB 10-60-01-008M. WTF !
This TSB says to install valve cover # 12570427 on 07-08, and valve cover # 12642655 on 09 and later engines ONLY. There is a *NOTE* stating "These rocker covers are for specific years. The PCV orifice is different for each. The correct cover must be used or an SES light may set". There is a lot more scary info in it. I suggest you read it thoroughly.
I'll be installing the AFM pressure relief valve deflector,# 12639759, valve cover # 12570427, and doing the combustion chamber flush procedure while I have my oil pan off.
He's a link for the TSB:

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

What do yawl have to say about this?

 

[thompsoj22]

Great read, I consider myself sooooooooo lucky to have purchased our 08 6.2 without any knowledge of afm. I dont have it and none of the dormant components are installed in the 08 block? Im sure i would have bought the vehicle anyway as i was uninformed, however i wish GM would insert their power plant design engineers into a foreign compeitor car company to FUBAR one of their engines! Hang in there and forward this thread to GM to keep them up to date on the reality of trusting one of their products outside warranty!

 

[swathdiver]

What do yawl have to say about this?

Have fun!

Great read, I consider myself sooooooooo lucky to have purchased our 08 6.2 without any knowledge of afm. I dont have it and none of the dormant components are installed in the 08 block? Im sure i would have bought the vehicle anyway as i was uninformed, however i wish GM would insert their power plant design engineers into a foreign compeitor car company to FUBAR one of their engines! Hang in there and forward this thread to GM to keep them up to date on the reality of trusting one of their products outside warranty!

We might have lost the small block chevy were it not for displacement on demand government regulations what they are these days. The Gen IV components were updated in 2011 and they are much more reliable. The Gen V DI engines are even more reliable and because of their increased horsepower, use it more often, up to 51% of the time. The engines in the new generation pickups can shut off ANY combination of cylinders, called Dynamic Fuel Management, and operates about 60% of the time now.

 

[iamdub]

I'm a new guy here. While watching a utube video today about removing the oil pan, they talked about TSB 10-60-01-008M. WTF !
This TSB says to install valve cover # 12570427 on 07-08, and valve cover # 12642655 on 09 and later engines ONLY. There is a *NOTE* stating "These rocker covers are for specific years. The PCV orifice is different for each. The correct cover must be used or an SES light may set". There is a lot more scary info in it. I suggest you read it thoroughly.
I'll be installing the AFM pressure relief valve deflector,# 12639759, valve cover # 12570427, and doing the combustion chamber flush procedure while I have my oil pan off.
He's a link for the TSB:

https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63/cec66346-04c1-48e0-98a6-74c35af2c84e_2014+Engine+-+Oil+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

What do yawl have to say about this?

Why did you wait until AFTER I ordered the '09+ valve cover to tell me this?!

J/k

Oh well. I got the cover cheaply enough that I won't be sore if I have to perform some small modifications to make it work peacefully on my '08 5.3. It's not rocket surgery and less hassle than relocating the hole in my stock cover. Getting settled in to read your link...

 

[iamdub]

...I've read that before. What info in there are you referring to as "scary"?

 

[iamdub]

Just got my #12642655 valve cover delivered. I'll have to find a way to get a light inside the PCV port to see what the difference is between it and my stock cover. I think my borescope will fit. I tried to turn the nipple to see if I could break it free and pop it out, but it didn't budge. If I pinch it any harder for more grip, I'm likely to squash it. The casting number on the actual cover itself seems to be the same as any other cover, so I believe the actual cover is the same and the only change is to the PCV nipple/port and to the stainless baffle attached to the underside. So if the hole in the cover for the nipple/port is the same size between the two, I might can swap my original PCV port to this new cover. I'll handle it when I actually go to swap them. Worst case, I'll do as originally planned and modify my stock cover and pass this newer one on to someone with an '09+ motor.

 

[swathdiver]

Just got my #12642655 valve cover delivered. I'll have to find a way to get a light inside the PCV port to see what the difference is between it and my stock cover. I think my borescope will fit. I tried to turn the nipple to see if I could break it free and pop it out, but it didn't budge. If I pinch it any harder for more grip, I'm likely to squash it. The casting number on the actual cover itself seems to be the same as any other cover, so I believe the actual cover is the same and the only change is to the PCV nipple/port and to the stainless baffle attached to the underside. So if the hole in the cover for the nipple/port is the same size between the two, I might can swap my original PCV port to this new cover. I'll handle it when I actually go to swap them. Worst case, I'll do as originally planned and modify my stock cover and pass this newer one on to someone with an '09+ motor.

Didn't you and I hash all that out a couple weeks ago?

 

[donjetman]

What info in there are you referring to as "scary"?

On p.2 of the TSB it states "If this repair does not correct the condition, it may be necessary to replace all of the piston assemblies (piston and rings) with new parts." SCARY !

GM also states "Some customers may comment about engine oil consumption of vehicles with higher mileage (approximately 48,000 to 64,000 km (30,000 to 40,000mi
GM thinks that is "higher mileage" ????? SCARY !!!!

GM thinks oil consumption is normal? they state "If the customer understands that some oil consumption is normal and still feels the consumption level is excessive, more than 1 quart per 2000 to 3000 miles of driving" Again SCARY

I guess I've been spoiled? because the last 10+ yrs and 190K miles my Toyota daily driver hasn't burnt or leaked any oil, and I do extended oil change intervals based on used oil analysis results.

 

[iamdub]

Didn't you and I hash all that out a couple weeks ago?

Kinda... But this cover was $36 to my door. That makes it not worth my time to relocate the hole in my original cover, essentially making it the same as the #12570427. For less than $40, I have the relocated hole. I just need to address the difference in PCV valve or orifice or whatever it is, and I believe that'd be easier than cutting and welding the baffle. If I'm wrong, then someone with an '09+ will have a deal on an upgraded cover. On the other hand, I may discover a cheaper alternative to the #12570427 for the '07-'08 owners.

 

[iamdub]

On p.2 of the TSB it states "If this repair does not correct the condition, it may be necessary to replace all of the piston assemblies (piston and rings) with new parts." SCARY !

GM also states "Some customers may comment about engine oil consumption of vehicles with higher mileage (approximately 48,000 to 64,000 km (30,000 to 40,000mi
GM thinks that is "higher mileage" ????? SCARY !!!!

GM thinks oil consumption is normal? they state "If the customer understands that some oil consumption is normal and still feels the consumption level is excessive, more than 1 quart per 2000 to 3000 miles of driving" Again SCARY

I guess I've been spoiled? because the last 10+ yrs and 190K miles my Toyota daily driver hasn't burnt or leaked any oil, and I do extended oil change intervals based on used oil analysis results.

I see what you mean now. Yeah, it's pretty freakin' ridiculous.

 

[dnt1010]

I just purchased a used 09 Chevy Tahoe Hybrid with the 6.0 AFM engine. Was a quart low of oil after approx 1200 miles of driving. I could not determine if the previous owners had changed the drivers side valve cover or not without pulling it off so I went ahead and swapped it out. After I removed it I saw that it had in fact been replaced at some point so I did not gain anything except for I guess the satisfaction of knowing. It was a bit disappointing to see the interior condition of the existing valve cover, it is sludged up pretty badly. I think people following GM's OLM system cause a lot of high mileage sludge issues due to delayed oil changes. Any motor oil (including synthetic) will sludge if left in for too long. For you guys that are running the OLM down to 0% before an oil change take a look at this pic (below) of the interior of the valve cover, now keeping in mind that this is a 198k miles engine and will have some buildup thsi looks excessive to me..... The previous owner assured me that it had always had 5W30 synthetic oil run in it and was religiously changed per owners manual. Anyway I have driven for another 500 miles or so after the valve cover swap and the oil level seems to have dropped a little bit but not enough to ad any oil yet. Oil pressure is good with no odd engine noises or lifter clicks so hopefully it will run a long time. It has averaged over 17 mpg over the last 1700 miles or so, pretty good for a Tahoe with a 3.5" lift / 10x20 Mayhem 8106 Hatchets and a set of aggressive tread Nitto Grapplers. I am looking at changing out the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids soon. I will be curious to see what the fluids that come out will look like. Not sure how many Hybrid owners visit here? my intial search turned up no threads on hybrids................might be a lone wolf LOL

 

[swathdiver]

I just purchased a used 09 Chevy Tahoe Hybrid with the 6.0 AFM engine. Was a quart low of oil after approx 1200 miles of driving. I could not determine if the previous owners had changed the drivers side valve cover or not without pulling it off so I went ahead and swapped it out. After I removed it I saw that it had in fact been replaced at some point so I did not gain anything except for I guess the satisfaction of knowing. It was a bit disappointing to see the interior condition of the existing valve cover, it is sludged up pretty badly. I think people following GM's OLM system cause a lot of high mileage sludge issues due to delayed oil changes. Any motor oil (including synthetic) will sludge if left in for too long. For you guys that are running the OLM down to 0% before an oil change take a look at this pic (below) of the interior of the valve cover, now keeping in mind that this is a 198k miles engine and will have some buildup thsi looks excessive to me..... The previous owner assured me that it had always had 5W30 synthetic oil run in it and was religiously changed per owners manual. Anyway I have driven for another 500 miles or so after the valve cover swap and the oil level seems to have dropped a little bit but not enough to ad any oil yet. Oil pressure is good with no odd engine noises or lifter clicks so hopefully it will run a long time. It has averaged over 17 mpg over the last 1700 miles or so, pretty good for a Tahoe with a 3.5" lift / 10x20 Mayhem 8106 Hatchets and a set of aggressive tread Nitto Grapplers. I am looking at changing out the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids soon. I will be curious to see what the fluids that come out will look like. Not sure how many Hybrid owners visit here? my intial search turned up no threads on hybrids................might be a lone wolf LOL


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Welcome Darryl! A few Hybrid guys are members but not regulars. Yours is the first Hybrid I've seen that's been lifted. As for the OLM, When mine shows 30-45% it's around 5K miles. Thinking about dropping it to 4K instead.

As for burning oil and replacing pistons and rings, this is done because the rings were not set right during break-in and or the motor was exposed to dirty oil and dirty air filters.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I just purchased a used 09 Chevy Tahoe Hybrid with the 6.0 AFM engine. Was a quart low of oil after approx 1200 miles of driving. I could not determine if the previous owners had changed the drivers side valve cover or not without pulling it off so I went ahead and swapped it out. After I removed it I saw that it had in fact been replaced at some point so I did not gain anything except for I guess the satisfaction of knowing. It was a bit disappointing to see the interior condition of the existing valve cover, it is sludged up pretty badly. I think people following GM's OLM system cause a lot of high mileage sludge issues due to delayed oil changes. Any motor oil (including synthetic) will sludge if left in for too long. For you guys that are running the OLM down to 0% before an oil change take a look at this pic (below) of the interior of the valve cover, now keeping in mind that this is a 198k miles engine and will have some buildup thsi looks excessive to me..... The previous owner assured me that it had always had 5W30 synthetic oil run in it and was religiously changed per owners manual. Anyway I have driven for another 500 miles or so after the valve cover swap and the oil level seems to have dropped a little bit but not enough to ad any oil yet. Oil pressure is good with no odd engine noises or lifter clicks so hopefully it will run a long time. It has averaged over 17 mpg over the last 1700 miles or so, pretty good for a Tahoe with a 3.5" lift / 10x20 Mayhem 8106 Hatchets and a set of aggressive tread Nitto Grapplers. I am looking at changing out the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids soon. I will be curious to see what the fluids that come out will look like. Not sure how many Hybrid owners visit here? my intial search turned up no threads on hybrids................might be a lone wolf LOL


View attachment 211657
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The vc actually doesn't look too bad. PO probably did oil changes with GM recommended intervals as you stated. I always change oil around 2500-3000. Although sometimes I do exceed that, but not usually.

 

[donjetman]

While in the pan to change the oil pan gasket #12612350, I installed an AFM Oil Deflector, GM# 12639759, to the AFM pressure relief valve, per TSB 10-06-01-008M, see pictures. I also installed a new oil pickup tube o-ring, Felpro#72401. The old o-ring was hard and brittle. And I installed the pan back on the engine today.

TSB 10-06-01-008M link:
https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf

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[dnt1010]

donjetman great pics thanks for posting that. It looks like a small amount of oil sludge in the first pic. How many miles/ Are you the original owner/ If so what type of oil and oil change intervals? I am really curious now as to how a high mileage engine is going to look inside even if the oil was changed every 3000 miles or less.
Maybe it would be best to just trade for a brand new vehicle each year and let the used car owners worry about this stuff (said the tightwad NEVER Hahahaha)

 

[donjetman]

I've seen better and I've seen worse. I bought the vehicle used(132k miles) recently. I'm the third owner. I don't know the mx history. I bought it cheap(that's me) and they took my 200k mile 02 4x4 Surburban in trade that had a lot of issues.

 

[07yukonguy]

Just came across this valve cover issue while looking up high oil consumption. 07’ Yukon 240,000kms. Needs a litre of oil between changes. Is it worth the valve cover swap or just keep adding oil?

 

[wjburken]

Just came across this valve cover issue while looking up high oil consumption. 07’ Yukon 240,000kms. Needs a litre of oil between changes. Is it worth the valve cover swap or just keep adding oil?

I would swap the cover. Will help your motor last longer.

 

[iamdub]

Just came across this valve cover issue while looking up high oil consumption. 07’ Yukon 240,000kms. Needs a litre of oil between changes. Is it worth the valve cover swap or just keep adding oil?

The concern isn't just that you're having to add a little oil, it's that the oil is being fed into the engine, and mostly all of it to the rear cylinder(s). You'd be far better off if that one liter was just leaking out somewhere because at least then it wouldn't be causing harm by carbonizing combustion chambers and possibly sticking up piston rings. You could just add oil until you got around to fixing the leak. Do what you can to reduce the oil going into the intake manifold by getting the revised valve cover and adding a good catch can.