gooffeyguy
Tom
It's a replacement piece that goes between the windshield and the main dash. It's the piece that has the defrost openings and also houses the ambiant light sensor (that little bubble that sticks up at the center)
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- Thread starter swathdiver
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
It's a replacement.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
all sales final
Hey that's ok, the control arm brackets on the one I bought were dragged through the dirt and the bolt holes on a few got slightly elongated. Will take parts from the first one to repair the one you gave me and then have old 8.6 kept for spares as well.
I was bummed to learn that none of those parts are available anymore, the rubber parts for the lever, the anchor block, etc. Some of the others can still be had in the ACDelco line and the actual parking brake shoes and adjuster hardware is available aftermarket.
Missed out on a low mileage 3.73 geared front differential up in Melbourne. The other 3.73 has 158K and almost $400.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Dorman is the filler panel between the dash and the glass. Dash is new gm
randeez
Full Access Member
Mine got delivered today, still in box on porch tho didn't get home till late
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
If it wasn't so darn hot outside we would have put ours in today! By the time it cooled off we were too dog tired.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I used the seal that goes against the windshield off my factory one. It seemed to be better made.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Or get a couple cans of Battery Terminal Cleaner, and spray it in all the nooks & crannies at the very least. The can pressure will force the inert spray into the spots you can't reach, and deactivate the acid.
Then spray it down at the car wash with the low-pressure hose.
randeez
Full Access Member
got around to throwing this piece in this afternoon, color is a hair off but just chocking it up to main dash being in there (in the sun) for a couple years but looks 100x better. old one had more than half the tabs broke off. fit was great, texture finish is about perfect. the windshield seal you speak of, my stock one didnt even have a seal so dorman one went in, looked to be decent tho
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Well, we've been busy with the 90K service on the 2013 Sierra. Installed the AVS stick on visors and GM Accessory splash shields with red GMC logo on the back. Also got a super deal on a GM Accessory Tonneau Cover and put that on. Bed Liner is backordered still. I could get one sooner for $50 more and risk damage during delivery. Think we'll wait.
Only thing left to do is to replace the O2 sensors and power steering fluid. We'll do that over the winter.
I've decided to forgo the 3.73 gears but still going to put the larger axle under the Yukon. Truck is going west for two weeks. Don't want to potentially give up gas mileage and decided not to buy a travel trailer until after we buy some land. Slowly working on other truck and household projects as health allows. Summer heat is here.
The white Sierra is going to have a major suspension and steering overhaul soon. Collecting parts, including traction bars and then the lift components will be removed, cleaned up and powder coated. Julia is going with a brass or bronze accent color to powder coat various parts. Kryptonite UCAs didn't come with bushings but that will make powder coating easier. Don't think I'll have much more than an advisory role until it comes time to put everything back together!
Oh, I scored a good deal on the tools to rebuild the GM CV-Shafts and to properly swage the new clamps on them. It'll pay for itself after the first 2 rebuilds.
Looking for a cheap Branick 7400 or 7600 spring compressor. Maybe a 7200 if the top bearing is still good, no parts for those anymore is my understanding.
Never using this one again, scares me!
Finished building my second cannon this morning, another 1981 vintage CVA black powder cannon, this one a Yorktowne in .50 caliber. Came together real nice and she's ready for Independence Day! Looks similar to this real one but the carriage and wheels are stained walnut and rust browned the metal hardware.
Only thing left to do is to replace the O2 sensors and power steering fluid. We'll do that over the winter.
I've decided to forgo the 3.73 gears but still going to put the larger axle under the Yukon. Truck is going west for two weeks. Don't want to potentially give up gas mileage and decided not to buy a travel trailer until after we buy some land. Slowly working on other truck and household projects as health allows. Summer heat is here.
The white Sierra is going to have a major suspension and steering overhaul soon. Collecting parts, including traction bars and then the lift components will be removed, cleaned up and powder coated. Julia is going with a brass or bronze accent color to powder coat various parts. Kryptonite UCAs didn't come with bushings but that will make powder coating easier. Don't think I'll have much more than an advisory role until it comes time to put everything back together!
Oh, I scored a good deal on the tools to rebuild the GM CV-Shafts and to properly swage the new clamps on them. It'll pay for itself after the first 2 rebuilds.
Looking for a cheap Branick 7400 or 7600 spring compressor. Maybe a 7200 if the top bearing is still good, no parts for those anymore is my understanding.
Never using this one again, scares me!
Finished building my second cannon this morning, another 1981 vintage CVA black powder cannon, this one a Yorktowne in .50 caliber. Came together real nice and she's ready for Independence Day! Looks similar to this real one but the carriage and wheels are stained walnut and rust browned the metal hardware.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
A member whose name is lost to me now showed us how to replace the grommets at the bottom of our airboxes. To do so, we have to purchase a new mounting plate.
GMPartsGiant had them for about $14 so I bought one. The part number is 23425108.
GMPartsGiant had them for about $14 so I bought one. The part number is 23425108.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Ok, so the next thing was to put new foam around the airbox to keep hot engine air out as the old foam has seen better days. You keep the original foam and slip this inside of it and it clips in place. Pretty ingenious I thought. The air cleaner seal is part number 22844822 and was also purchased from GMPartsGiant.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Good to know!
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Been taking a break from the forum again as my eyes are shot.
In the meantime, we've been having the trucks cleaned and detailed and amassing parts for the 2012s overhaul. We picked up those brand new HD towing brakes from ACDelco with all new calipers, brackets, pads and specially cut and coated rotors. The calipers say ACDelco on them.
On the Yukon XL, we replaced all 4 exterior door handles along with 8 of the nine speakers and boy did that make a difference! She sounds better than ever. Used GM OE Bose speakers.
Want to replace the subwoofer, I believe the unit is a Bose 181860 and see that they were used in vehicles and in home audio systems. Leary about buying a used one, all the sellers say they work great but how to tell if they still make bass? My old speakers look great and sounded fine too! Can a subwoofer be rebuilt?
The sealed chrome door handle kit came with 2 RR door handles. When installed on the passenger front, the door would not open. Luckily, the panel was off and we were able to unbolt the handle from the inside and then remove it and push down on the lever to open the door. Turns out the part that connects to the lever is longer so we swapped parts over from the old one and was back in business.
The exterior handle on the driver's side front door was not snapping back into place at first. Seems to be getting better. Curiously, the RF interior handle is not snapping back into place. Might have to pull the panel and adjust something. Will give it a few days.
One of the sylvania bulbs out back (7443LLBP) that was replaced in February burned out. Normally don't run them but needed the truck up and running. Preference is for GM/ACDelco or Philips Original Equipment. Forgot to change it out so now faced with the same situation again! LOL
Michelin Defenders have 9/32 of tread on them now at almost 24K miles. That's about a 1/32 of an inch for every 8K miles. Pretty much as expected.
The lumbar switch on the passenger side was pushed in, it's pushed on the other trucks too, so I took out the little screw in front, pinched the rear clips to pull the cover off some and pushed the lumber switch module back into it's bracket and all is good again for that.
Truck has been busy hauling the family to and fro. She's gone over 4.5K miles since April. The girls don't plan their fuel stops so the truck has been drinking Racetrac, Shell, Sunoco, Mobil, etc. during this time. MPGs are still pretty good.
Waiting on oil analysis from Blackstone-Labs.
So, what have y'all been up to?
In the meantime, we've been having the trucks cleaned and detailed and amassing parts for the 2012s overhaul. We picked up those brand new HD towing brakes from ACDelco with all new calipers, brackets, pads and specially cut and coated rotors. The calipers say ACDelco on them.
On the Yukon XL, we replaced all 4 exterior door handles along with 8 of the nine speakers and boy did that make a difference! She sounds better than ever. Used GM OE Bose speakers.
Want to replace the subwoofer, I believe the unit is a Bose 181860 and see that they were used in vehicles and in home audio systems. Leary about buying a used one, all the sellers say they work great but how to tell if they still make bass? My old speakers look great and sounded fine too! Can a subwoofer be rebuilt?
The sealed chrome door handle kit came with 2 RR door handles. When installed on the passenger front, the door would not open. Luckily, the panel was off and we were able to unbolt the handle from the inside and then remove it and push down on the lever to open the door. Turns out the part that connects to the lever is longer so we swapped parts over from the old one and was back in business.
The exterior handle on the driver's side front door was not snapping back into place at first. Seems to be getting better. Curiously, the RF interior handle is not snapping back into place. Might have to pull the panel and adjust something. Will give it a few days.
One of the sylvania bulbs out back (7443LLBP) that was replaced in February burned out. Normally don't run them but needed the truck up and running. Preference is for GM/ACDelco or Philips Original Equipment. Forgot to change it out so now faced with the same situation again! LOL
Michelin Defenders have 9/32 of tread on them now at almost 24K miles. That's about a 1/32 of an inch for every 8K miles. Pretty much as expected.
The lumbar switch on the passenger side was pushed in, it's pushed on the other trucks too, so I took out the little screw in front, pinched the rear clips to pull the cover off some and pushed the lumber switch module back into it's bracket and all is good again for that.
Truck has been busy hauling the family to and fro. She's gone over 4.5K miles since April. The girls don't plan their fuel stops so the truck has been drinking Racetrac, Shell, Sunoco, Mobil, etc. during this time. MPGs are still pretty good.
Waiting on oil analysis from Blackstone-Labs.
So, what have y'all been up to?
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Good to see you back! You will see I have tested my fuel alcohol content calculator. Seems ok and that's with Denso sensors. Not much else. Getting ready for vacation in northern Wisconsin.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm very surprised by this. My experience has always been if a speaker sounds bad, it'll look bad, too. Usually rotted or soft surrounds. Your original speakers appeared fine? My old '08 speakers sound great. Maybe it's cuz it has spent most of its life parked inside?
I've not routed that rod on the inside correctly before and it drags on the rubber block that's supposed to keep it from rattling laterally. Or maybe it's that cable to the handle was pulled.
Nothing interesting. Working, mostly.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have found speakers that looked fine to have a bad coil that rubbed as it moved in its suspension. They usually sounded raspy and you could feel and hear it if you pushed on them just right.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
They didn't sound bad per se, they just didn't sound great and lacked some bass. We got some bass back with the new speakers and still have to replace the subwoofer.
My daughter said one speaker had a problem but I forget what it was, I'll look at them later and take photos. Well, maybe next week, getting out of here and going to Daytona for some R&R.
I could barely hear my D-pillar speakers and now that we've replaced them, can hear them now. Curiously, they are NOS, they are dated in early 2009 when my truck was built at the end of 2009! All of the other speakers were within 3 years old and of course, new in the box or bags for the little tweeters. Can hear the tweeters better too now that I think about it, especially with the treble turned up.
It sounds just as good as the 2013s stock system now. Well, my wife and youngest daughter say it's almost as good! LOL Smaller crew cab help with sound maybe?
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Yeah, and that's often a result of a soft surround letting the cone sag (with side-firing speakers) and the off-centered voice coil rubs and shorts out. Or too much juice burns the voice coil.
My speakers sound fine, IMO. But now I wanna push on 'em and kinda hoping to find a problem.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Reading what you guys have written shows me that I know so little about audio systems! LOLYeah, and that's often a result of a soft surround letting the cone sag (with side-firing speakers) and the off-centered voice coil rubs and shorts out. Or too much juice burns the voice coil.
My speakers sound fine, IMO. But now I wanna push on 'em and kinda hoping to find a problem.
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