Trans tuning

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Chris2144

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This is the first video be careful follow along and listen closely he specifically mentions that some of the things he does later in the video and the truck he is working on is a gen 5 a lot of it is the same for the gen 4 but not all.
Also he shows you how to use the bluecat tool.
 
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Chris2144

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This is the second video. This is a good one too but doesn’t go into as much depth.

Still he shows that eliminating desired slip is the way to go at least if you are getting away from a factory converter.

The luk converter is supposed to be a dual disk and I’m liking it. I need to data log it when I get back home then throw the tune on and log it again. With the old converter you could not tell when it was locked or unlocked and it would shudder until you got into the throttle enough for the trans to ramp up apply pressure or just unlock it.

Now there is a distinct lock up in 4th and on and off the throttle in 5-6 again you get the normal distinct unlock and lock.
 
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Chris2144

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Here is the bluecat tuning tool.
These three links along with a laptop and hpt will get you a trans tune. Just follow along in the video they do go kinda fast at some spots I had to pause so I could enter in all my stuff the continued to follow along but it wasn’t hard. I think I’ve got a decent tune now and I’ll play with to get my shift schedule and speeds where I want them.
 
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Chris2144

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Doesn’t make much sense to allow slip but after seeing the stock tune I could understand what they were trying to do.
Also understand why the converter fails.
I really like the 6l80 way better than the 4l60. Can’t wait to get the tune on it.

I also raised my idle in the tune I’m chasing a rough idle but I’m pretty sure it’s a vacuum/ intake gasket leak. So I’m going to pull the intake and vlom while I’m there replace the vlom gasket and o rings and put new intake gaskets on. Then throw the tune on and do an adaptive reset.

I’ve started looking into playing with the vvt as well but I won’t change that just yet.
 

Marky Dissod

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Doesn’t make much sense to allow slip but after seeing the stock tune I could understand what they were trying to do. Also understand why the converter fails.
I also raised my idle in the tune I’m chasing a rough idle ...

I always thought GM was trying to reduce NVH; they'd prefer if the driver & riders don't notice anything with their backsides, one less potential complaint.
I actually prefer feeling gentle but positive shifts & TCC engagements / releases.

Raising the idle (up to 725RpM in P / N, up to 625RpM in gear) never hurts, plus it actually helps initial throttle response a bit.
Going higher is a bit wasteful, especially in gear, as you'll NEED to use quite a bit of brake to keep the vehicle from creeping forward.
 
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Chris2144

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Yea I’m no trans expert but I’ve always been told a quick firm shift is better for clutches same would apply for the tc.

I’ve always hated a soft slow trans. I’m not looking to chirp tires or anything but having the torque converter clutch slip all the time just seem crazy.
 

Marky Dissod

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Yea I’m no trans expert, but I’ve always been told a quick firm shift is better for clutches; same would apply for the torque converter.
I’ve always hated a soft slow trans. I’m not looking to chirp tires or anything, but having the torque converter clutch slip all the time just seems crazy.
Although clutches are by definition designed to tolerate some slip, the less the better. Slip = energy wasted as heat, plus you're aging the clutch more quickly.

When the TCC is engaged (primarily to improve MpGs), an automatic transmission is 'pretending' to be a manual by using a physical clutch.
GM's concern is that if the TCC does not slip at all, its engagements & releases as well as any other driveline NVH may be transferred to the driver / riders.
By letting the TCC slip a lil bit, no one will physically notice things like V7 / V6 / V5 / V4 / I4 / V3 / I3 / V2 / I2 mode changes with their backside
(their ears are a different story). There are other potential driveline vibe sources, of course, I was just using an obvious example.
 

Foggy

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Why not. I would think out of all gears you wouldn’t want any slip in the od gears.

I don’t have afm so it won’t need to slip in any of the od gears for that I know there was a thing with slipping the converter to help with vibration or harmonics something of that nature due to the afm
You don't zero out slip as the TC clutch is "wet clutch" design. It needs to slip just
a bit to live a happy/long life.
Up your UPSHIFT speeds by like 15% in all gears at everything below 50% throttle.
You'll have to adjust the DOWNSHIFT to go along with it..
I keep TC Clutch in 4th gear above 42 mph at light throttle.
5-6 upshift not until 49-50 mph. 5-6 shift 64 mph... I love my 6L80
since I tuned it. Just keep in mind that some of the videos and advice
you find is NOT for a 6K+ lb house on wheels. Creep up to certain settings
 

mikez71

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When you think about it.. 20rpms of slip is only 1 full rotation in 3 seconds..

Think I heard the trans fluid moving through the grooves on the clutch material helps to cool it.
 
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Chris2144

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You don't zero out slip as the TC clutch is "wet clutch" design. It needs to slip just
a bit to live a happy/long life.
Up your UPSHIFT speeds by like 15% in all gears at everything below 50% throttle.
You'll have to adjust the DOWNSHIFT to go along with it..
I keep TC Clutch in 4th gear above 42 mph at light throttle.
5-6 upshift not until 49-50 mph. 5-6 shift 64 mph... I love my 6L80
since I tuned it. Just keep in mind that some of the videos and advice
you find is NOT for a 6K+ lb house on wheels. Creep up to certain settings
I’ll have to go back and look again but I think mine are close to that after I got done changing everything with the bluecat tool
 

Foggy

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I’ll have to go back and look again but I think mine are close to that after I got done changing everything with the bluecat tool
To add: you can zero out slip, but only with an aftermarket converter that has
a non wet clutch design. I think that design is in the high end converters
aimed toward the racing/ high stall market. Most of the stuff we use
for our heavy beast (lower stall) will have the wet clutch design
 
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Chris2144

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To add: you can zero out slip, but only with an aftermarket converter that has
a non wet clutch design. I think that design is in the high end converters
aimed toward the racing/ high stall market. Most of the stuff we use
for our heavy beast (lower stall) will have the wet clutch design
All the things I’ve seen and the two videos say to zero it out. I’m using a luk torque converter which should be fine with no slip.

Above all I just want to be able to get to 200k with it if I make it that far I’ll be happy. I think I caught the failing converter before it got done with its self destruct sequence so there’s some hope lol.
 

mikez71

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With the old converter you could not tell when it was locked or unlocked and it would shudder until you got into the throttle enough for the trans to ramp up apply pressure or just unlock it.

Now there is a distinct lock up in 4th and on and off the throttle in 5-6 again you get the normal distinct unlock and lock.

Is this regarding a zero slip tune?

I figure the stock trans usually makes it to 200k, but I'm curious how much longer upgraded trannies should last...
 
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Chris2144

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No I have not tuned the trans yet this is just with the new converter.

I would imagine that tuning the trans with just some mild changes should help it live longer. Idk though I’m new to the 6l80.

I do know that the stock converters were the biggest problem. The local trans shop said after the converter replacement they are pretty solid with stock power
 

mikez71

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While I don't doubt a tune can make it live longer, 200k is not terrible is all I'm saying..

Other parts wear out as well.. So I wonder how long an upgraded & rebuilt 6L80 should last?
 

Marky Dissod

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While I don't doubt a tune can make it live longer, 200k is not terrible is all I'm saying.
Other parts wear out as well ... So I wonder how long an upgraded & rebuilt 6L80 should last?
I'm saying that the torque converter clutch's failure is by far the 6L80's chief failure mode,
and that tuning the tcm thoroughly & properly can easily add at least 10,000 miles to a new or rebuilt 6L80 (if one is willing to make VERY SMALL NVH sacrifices).
 

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