Stealth subwoofer install options

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09_BLK GMC

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Hello, I have searched for stealth installs for our body style Tahoes (2011 Tahoe) but can't find much information. Just trying to get ideas, I'd like to keep most of my rear compartment. The only option I see is the ebay box for the center console cause I don't want to pay top dollar for a stealth box from JL. Any help would be great! Thanks guys!
 

Booby1323

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The same guy on ebay that makes the center console box you mentioned (I believe Rodney's Boxes is his name) also makes a box for between the second row seats if you got the captains seats back there.

I considered getting one but I think I want to build my own because I wanted to put a JL 10w7 in that spot and Rodney's boxes cant build theirs for a down firing W7 because of the volume and travel of the sub. My plan was to build a similar box but with the w7 firing forward and I wanted to build it so it is on a hinge so the whole enclosure could tumble over like the second row seats for cargo space.
 

Booby1323

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Another idea of mine was to gut an extra pair of third row seats and build sub enclosures on one or both of them. Id probably try to mount the amp on the enclosure and try to have the signal and power cables on some sort of plugs so that they could be easily removed for cargo space should it be needed or to put the original third row seats in. Might be a cool way to have a badass system and keep the ability to use the rear area.

I actually already bought and extra set of 3rd row seats like a year ago with the idea of doing this but I still unsure how crazy I want to go with sound system yet and haven't really done anything with them yet. Ive been scheming how to do the my system for a while now and I'm just now starting to get serious about gathering the equipment. Just picked up a new JL stealthbox for $300 off my local facebook listings and got a JL xd300/1 amp to run it and I found a good deal on a JL xd600/6 for the door speakers. I got about 150 SF of dynamat on the way as well. Still need to plan door speakers and something for some BIG bass.
 
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09_BLK GMC

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Nice!! That 3rd row seat idea is thinking outside the box, I would have never thought of that! You have a nice stack of parts, I like the xd amps cause they are nice and compact.
 

iamdub

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Hello, I have searched for stealth installs for our body style Tahoes (2011 Tahoe) but can't find much information. Just trying to get ideas, I'd like to keep most of my rear compartment. The only option I see is the ebay box for the center console cause I don't want to pay top dollar for a stealth box from JL. Any help would be great! Thanks guys!

How much beat do you want? You can buy or build a box like this except have the sub firing downward so you could carry cargo on top:

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If you went with flat sub(s), you could make it about half as deep as the one in the pic. If you don't use the third row seats, you could make what's known as a "false floor" to fill in the whole cargo area. It'd look stock at first glance. You could mount your amps under it and would have plenty of air space if you wanted to make it ported.
 
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09_BLK GMC

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@kee guller What kind of amp and sub are you running?

@iamdub I'm not looking window rattling bass just more than what i have now. I do not have the bose or premium audio.
 

iamdub

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I'm not looking window rattling bass just more than what i have now. I do not have the bose or premium audio.

I suggest you find someone with the Bose sub (it's in the console) and listen to it. Adjust the bass, etc. and see if it'll work for you. I'm decently satisfied with mine for what it is. Nothing chest-pounding, but it can be felt and fills the low end considerably well. Another member recently installed a low-profile all-in-one sub/amp/enclosure thing that fit where the Bose sub and enclosure would be (THREAD HERE). Actually, he replaced his Bose sub with it and reported that it sounded much better. I don't know if he meant louder or better sound or both, but I'd say it at least was louder. If you listen to a Bose system, just imagine it a little louder. If this will work for you, then you've got your answer for a stealth sub with nothing in plain view and no loss of any cargo space or even floor space, for that matter.
 

Kee Fuller

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Im running an 8 inch jl audio sub and 1500 watt planet audio amp for it. Its nothing fancy, but it hits way harder than the factory stuff. I wanted my stuff to look and sound better than factory.
 
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09_BLK GMC

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I suggest you find someone with the Bose sub (it's in the console) and listen to it. Adjust the bass, etc. and see if it'll work for you. I'm decently satisfied with mine for what it is. Nothing chest-pounding, but it can be felt and fills the low end considerably well. Another member recently installed a low-profile all-in-one sub/amp/enclosure thing that fit where the Bose sub and enclosure would be (THREAD HERE). Actually, he replaced his Bose sub with it and reported that it sounded much better. I don't know if he meant louder or better sound or both, but I'd say it at least was louder. If you listen to a Bose system, just imagine it a little louder. If this will work for you, then you've got your answer for a stealth sub with nothing in plain view and no loss of any cargo space or even floor space, for that matter.

Thank you for your advice, I do have the Bose in my 15 Silverado Crew and I definitely need more bass than that lol!

Im running an 8 inch jl audio sub and 1500 watt planet audio amp for it. Its nothing fancy, but it hits way harder than the factory stuff. I wanted my stuff to look and sound better than factory.

That's probably the route I may be going for! Thank you for the info!

Guys again Thank you for your help!!
 

Joseph Garcia

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Even though you have bench second row seats, you can still install a sub box behind them that is relocatable and/or removable. This gives you the flexibility to move or remove the sub, when you need the cargo space for something else. My removable, 10" down-firing Audiomobile sub, powered by a 500 watt Rockford Fosgate amp hidden within the rear side panel, is specifically designed for small, 1 cubic foot sealed enclosures, but the sub itself is not a pancake design. The sound, while it won't set off car alarms a block away, delivers a very strong and tight base sound. I have quick disconnect plugs on the speaker wires, so it is easy to remove when needed. I also carry a 10' length speaker wire with matching quick disconnect plugs so that I can move the sub box to any position within the truck at any time when needed.

07 Denali Custom Sub.jpg
 
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09_BLK GMC

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Even though you have bench second row seats, you can still install a sub box behind them that is relocatable and/or removable. This gives you the flexibility to move or remove the sub, when you need the cargo space for something else. My removable, 10" down-firing Audiomobile sub, powered by a 500 watt Rockford Fosgate amp hidden within the rear side panel, is specifically designed for small, 1 cubic foot sealed enclosures, but the sub itself is not a pancake design. The sound, while it won't set off car alarms a block away, delivers a very strong and tight base sound. I have quick disconnect plugs on the speaker wires, so it is easy to remove when needed. I also carry a 10' length speaker wire with matching quick disconnect plugs so that I can move the sub box to any position within the truck at any time when needed.

View attachment 225315

If I had the captains chairs this would have been the option I would have gone with. I am also debating on getting a single 12" that I can take out if needed.

Thank you guys for all the input!!
 

iamdub

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If I had the captains chairs this would have been the option I would have gone with. I am also debating on getting a single 12" that I can take out if needed.

Thank you guys for all the input!!

Speaking of removable, I had a 300-watt sub system in my ex-wife's car. The amp was mounted to the enclosure, so we had three wires plus the two RCAs to disconnect. I put the power, ground and remote wire together with a 2-conductor with ground twist-lock plug and mounted a receptacle to the underside of the back dash. The RCAs had a magnet hot-glued to them where the "Y" was so when they were disconnected from the amp, we just stuck them to the metal of the back dash. The twist-lock connector I used was rated for 30 amps, which would support 300 watts down to around 10 VDC, which your battery should never get to. At 14 VDC, it's only around 21 amps and around 25 amps at 12 VDC, to give you a reference.
 

JustinMKN

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Really happy with my JL Stealth Center Console woofer for $650 ish in my 2017 Suburban Premier.
 

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