Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
45,012
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I don’t know, I might try. It’s on an ear of the tank. It’s leaking on the inside of this hole. The problem is if I make it worse and it won’t hold coolant in the system I probably shouldn’t drive the truck.View attachment 247653

First I was thinking you could go at it with a tiny drill bit at a shallow angle to "route" out a slot along the leaking seam, then pack it with epoxy. Now I'm thinking you could use a thin cut-off disc to slice the seam on the whole ear, spread it apart with a screwdriver or wide pry tool, fill the entire ear full of epoxy and clamp it back closed to cure.
 
OP
OP
Rocket Man

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
Looking back I see that now. Must be flat head screws. Is that ear hollow?
Yes flat head Allen head screws and yes the ear must be hollow, there’s a seam that runs right through both mount holes horizontally instead of that part being solid plastic like you would think it would be. Like I said, it’s a shit design. That plastic seems to squish down when I tighten the screw down. Probably why the epoxy i flowed in from inside the tank didn’t fix it.
 

George B

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Posts
7,882
Reaction score
18,994
Location
Oconomowoc, Wisconsin 53066
Yes flat head Allen head screws and yes the ear must be hollow, there’s a seam that runs right through both mount holes horizontally instead of that part being solid plastic like you would think it would be. Like I said, it’s a shit design. That plastic seems to squish down when I tighten the screw down. Probably why the epoxy i flowed in from inside the tank didn’t fix it.

Thats ******!
 
OP
OP
Rocket Man

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
First I was thinking you could go at it with a tiny drill bit at a shallow angle to "route" out a slot along the leaking seam, then pack it with epoxy. Now I'm thinking you could use a thin cut-off disc to slice the seam on the whole ear, spread it apart with a screwdriver or wide pry tool, fill the entire ear full of epoxy and clamp it back closed to cure.
I actually thought about doing that but was thinking that might open up a can of worms but you might be right, now that someone else thought of it maybe it’s not so crazy after all. I might give it a try, hopefully I don’t mess up the tank worse than it is.
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
45,012
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I actually thought about doing that but was thinking that might open up a can of worms but you might be right, now that someone else thought of it maybe it’s not so crazy after all. I might give it a try, hopefully I don’t mess up the tank worse than it is.

After using that JB Weld Plastic Epoxy to repair a few mounting tabs for some rather large headlight assemblies, I'd trust it or anything similar. Having the whole ear filled to keep it from squashing should be a permanent fix. I'm thinking you'd fill one half and let it sit until the epoxy sets up enough to stay in place when inverted, then flip it to fill in the other half as quickly as possible, remove your spreader tool so the two filled halves connect, then lightly clamp and let cure.
 

pwtr02ss

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Posts
13,862
Reaction score
32,187
Location
Tennessee
After using that JB Weld Plastic Epoxy to repair a few mounting tabs for some rather large headlight assemblies, I'd trust it or anything similar. Having the whole ear filled to keep it from squashing should be a permanent fix. I'm thinking you'd fill one half and let it sit until the epoxy sets up enough to stay in place when inverted, then flip it to fill in the other half as quickly as possible, remove your spreader tool so the two filled halves connect, then lightly clamp and let cure.

That JB plastic weld is awesome.
 
OP
OP
Rocket Man

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
Just as I expected, cutting the tank turned into a bit of a can of worms. In order to get to the back sides of both mounting holes I had to really split it open. You can see the pink plastic weld I used, where it flowed into the channel that encircles the hole in the corner. Like I said, shit design. I cleaned everything with lacquer thinner, filled everything including both mounting holes completely and clamped the shit out of it. I’ll drill new holes through the JB Weld after it cures. I figure that’s better than trying to keep those holes clear and will be less likely to leak. We will see.

A9924547-A926-4736-B6A8-D3952EBA424C.jpeg 3C8B8FD5-4876-4E7F-8CFC-72C9166D700E.jpeg 7FD4E9CF-2375-4201-8EFE-8B32395B357C.jpeg C2849A62-BE6B-476E-9F68-9FE7D3C19BD1.jpeg 632DB797-E384-4E92-A504-C7AC552EB554.jpeg
 
OP
OP
Rocket Man

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
26,679
Reaction score
52,949
Location
Oregon
The ******** at Whipple emailed me back to say it’s out of warranty (duh, I told them it was) and the $125 is actually a discount, retail is really $175. Which is a bunch of shit since there is no part number and they’re only included with a supercharger bundle unless your original pos tank develops a leak. And even if there is a part number, Whipple is the one setting the price. F them. I’ll spend more money for a nice aluminum tank before I pay them a dime.
 

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
33,186
Reaction score
51,406
Location
Central Jersey
The ******** at Whipple emailed me back to say it’s out of warranty (duh, I told them it was) and the $125 is actually a discount, retail is really $175. Which is a bunch of shit since there is no part number and they’re only included with a supercharger bundle unless your original pos tank develops a leak. And even if there is a part number, Whipple is the one setting the price. F them. I’ll spend more money for a nice aluminum tank before I pay them a dime.
I'm with you Mark. I bet you could have something better fabbed up.
 

Dantheman1540

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Posts
4,974
Reaction score
10,823
Location
Sugar Loaf Mountain
Hell yeah brother! Get them cold IATs with a big tank! :beer:


Actually won't really help driving around IATs but should help keep it from getting heat soaked and reduce the time it takes to recover. I've done bigger pump, lines and heat exchanger but the one thing that showed a noticeable difference on logs was the big tank.
 

adventurenali92

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Posts
7,722
Reaction score
9,173
Location
Big Bear Lake, ca
I like the painted trim on the hatch. Looks really good. Interesting that you color matched the lift handle as well. I never thought of that. Kinda sticks out to me. But I like the uniform color though. When I first got my escalade pillar covers painted the shop painted them pewter instead of silver birch. I didn’t realize until I put them on the truck. They were WAY too dark.... I was like well crap that doesn’t match. So I had to drive back to him and show him and he was like oh yeah I painted them the wrong color... he ended up having to redo them. I’m surprised though... those esky pillar covers have been on my truck 4 years now and the paint still looks really good. Not a single chip. Hopefully when you repaint, it’ll fix the off color on your pillar covers.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,766
Posts
1,991,604
Members
102,756
Latest member
dizhai
Back
Top