Redoing front brakes again

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Dustin Jackson

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When I got my Tahoe a few years ago the front brakes kind of grinded when coming to a stop. So I redid the brakes with a cheap set of drilled and slotted brakes with ceramic pads and made sure to lube the slider pins A LOT.

After I redid the brake job I still had some grinding for about 6 months still and then it went away for a couple years but the last couple of weeks I have been driving with my windows down and I can hear that my front brakes are having a rotational squeak and my wheels are cover in brake dust.

I ordered new powerstop pads and rotors and new brake hoses. I am going to be sure to clear out the slider pin holes to make sure the calipers can move.

I don’t want to replace the caliper if I don’t need to, what are things I can look out for while I am doing the front brakes to verify if the front caliper itself is good or not?
 

OR VietVet

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One mistake was the, " cheap set of drilled and slotted brakes with ceramic pads", and hopefully your current choice is better. I always use the ACD brand or Genuine GM. They just work better. Your signature says 180k miles on 2008 Z71. If that is the current mileage, it is past time, IMO, to do the calipers. Also, flush the brake fluid. Also, what is the condition of the rear brakes and what quality are they. They help stop the truck and if you are getting poor performance from the rear, the fronts work harder and get hotter than would be normal. I have said the same statement many times, the brake system is the most important system on your truck, it needs TLC at all times.
 

swathdiver

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When I got my Tahoe a few years ago the front brakes kind of grinded when coming to a stop. So I redid the brakes with a cheap set of drilled and slotted brakes with ceramic pads and made sure to lube the slider pins A LOT.

After I redid the brake job I still had some grinding for about 6 months still and then it went away for a couple years but the last couple of weeks I have been driving with my windows down and I can hear that my front brakes are having a rotational squeak and my wheels are cover in brake dust.

I ordered new powerstop pads and rotors and new brake hoses. I am going to be sure to clear out the slider pin holes to make sure the calipers can move.

I don’t want to replace the caliper if I don’t need to, what are things I can look out for while I am doing the front brakes to verify if the front caliper itself is good or not?
You can get brand new GM OE calipers, without a core charge, from RA, for $64 each Dustin. If you rebuild them yourself, it would cost about $45 each.

The Yukon's first set of front pads went 57K miles. Then new pads were put on and the rotors actually turned and that set went 78K miles.

The Yukon's first set of rear pads and rotors went 121K miles. It's been almost six years since we changed them and we're at 66K so far.

On the red Sierra, the brake wear seems to be the opposite, the front pads are original with plenty of meat on them. We just replaced the rear pads at 88K miles.

The white Sierra has been lifted for ten years now and she's over 150K miles and we're getting ready to completely overhaul the brakes. We haven't had to service them in over 50K miles.

All three trucks run GM Original Equipment brakes.


We've put Powerstop brake pads, rotors and calipers on our little spare Kia twice, the pads and rotors went about 30k miles.

With inflation being what it is these days, how much will you be saving by buying the less expensive parts twice rather than once over the course of 2-5 years or so?


If memory serves, caliper wear reveals itself as uneven wear across a pad. Slide pin wear is one pad wearing more than the other.


Oh, almost forgot! Do you remember the story of me doing the Yukon's front pads and rotors and not the calipers?

In March of 2019 at 135,940 miles my children and I serviced the front brakes, replacing the rotors, pads, caliper guide pins and bolts and all the extras for $412. BOTH rotors were $157.86 and the pads were $91.79. I distinctly remember ignoring that little voice that said to change the calipers, they looked good I told myself.

In March of 2020 one piston on the RF caliper hung up. Took it apart, cleaned, lubed and re-assembled. All was well for 3 more months until it seized completely and burned up the brakes on that side at 155,423 miles.

So now in 2020 the pads were $98.85 and the rotors were $179.02 for both. Total for the front was $499.89 which included two new GM OE calipers at $63.97 each. I rebuilt both rear calipers for $76.19 at the same time.

In October of 2022, brake parts were purchased for the red Sierra. Those same rotors up front were now $226.67 and scored the pads for $91.85. Rear pads were $141.08 and both rotors were $206.92.

The point being, as time goes on, the parts are getting more expensive, generally speaking. The rear GM OE pads have been discontinued so you have to look hard or use ACDelco Professional now.
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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Ive only owned the Tahoe since 160,000 miles so I am not sure if the calipers have been replaced, also don’t want to replace good parts if I can avoid it.

I was planning on doing all 4 corners calipers, pads, and rotors this year but finances aren’t allowing it.

I inspected the rear brakes and I have no problems with them and there is plenty of meat on the pads and no lip on the rotor.

I have a front set of powerstop rotors and pads along with a new set of brake hoses.

When I open it up this weekend I am going to inspect the calipers and pads for the wear you suggested to try and determine if the calipers are still working the way they should or if the slider pins are proper.

I think part of my problem is I packed my slider pin holes with grease thinking I was helping myself but I think I ended up just lube-locking my slider pins.

I hear you guys on replacing the calipers just to be safe but this isn’t the time for me to do that.
 

Big Mama

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My 07 had a similar problem. The front right pin locked up so I did a clean and new lube on it. It only lasted a couple months before it locked up again. I figured there was something wrong with the piston, not the guide pin so I got a new caliper and no problems since. It seemed like no matter how well I cleaned and relubed it just wouldn’t act right.
 
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Dustin Jackson

Dustin Jackson

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So I think the plan is to get everything apart and inspect the brake pad wear like suggested above, if the pads are wedge shaped that's probably the caliper but if one pad is worn more than the other then I might go with a new set of sliding pins?

I might squeeze the caliper open and have my daughter step on the brake pedal for me so I can observe the caliper piston and make sure its operating smoothly.

I also heard that a bad brake hose could prevent the caliper from operating properly so I went with new brake hoses
 

swathdiver

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Ive only owned the Tahoe since 160,000 miles so I am not sure if the calipers have been replaced,
The original calipers were supplied by PBR and will have those letters on them. PBR Brakes is an Australian company.

The OE supplier in '19 and '20 was Akebono, a Japanese company. Might still be, don't know.
 

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