Rear Main

[TheOldMan71]

What's up everyone. I'm finally going to deal with the leaking rear main seal on my 10 Burb. Quotes around me are like $2500 for the job so I'm going to do it in my driveway. Not something I wanted to diy but the budget is forcing me. Maybe I can use the money I save for a new driveway since it's ruined from my trucks oil leaks!! Biggest thing Im worried about is getting the exhaust flange bolts off but other than that it's seems pretty straight forward. While the trans is out Im also going to change the oil pressure sensor that's been acting wierd and the passenger side motor mount. What's everyone's thoughts about changing out the barbell seal if it's not leaking? Also any other recommendations on what to replace while it's apart? I know I could do a ton with the 180,000 mile transmission but I'm short on time and money and so far it's been fine so I just plan on re installing it.

Check your oil sending unit also. It’s easily accessible while the trans is backed out for the rear seal. It’s near the top on the driver side of the engine. To replace it from the top you have to remove the intake and still say bad words. They are prone to leaking also. This will appear to be a rear main leak as it will flow down to the lowest point of the transmission, just like a rear main seal. Hope this helps.

 

[TheOldMan71]

Does the trans and transfer case need to be supported with a jack when the cross member is removed but trans still bolted to the engine?

It’s a good idea, but not necessary

 

[solli5pack]

Well hello there...I took the intake off...Much easier and I'm sure is going to be a big help when Im putting it back in....Thanks for the suggestion @rdezs

 

[rdezs]

LOL, it sure beats pointlessly trying to squeeze your entire arm between the transmission and the transmission tunnel, knowing you'll only get 3 inches from the bolt

That notorious list of things "while you are in there" just popped in my mind....
1. A genuine GM ACDelco oil pressure sending unit is sort of a no-brainer when you have the intake off. It's also a good time to consider an oil pressure sending unit relocation kit to make future servicing it much easier.
2. Check the valley cover bolts and see how many are loose..... I can almost guarantee you'll have a couple.
3. Clean the inside of the intake and whatnot with some throttle body cleaner. It's normal to have a little bit of oil pooled in there.

 

[rdezs]

I don't recall if you mentioned if you've had the AFM deleted? If so and you find loose bolts holding the VLOM plate down in the valley.... I would only remove one bolt at a time, little bit of blue loctite and torque it down. If you remove the VLOM, technically you're supposed to replace it.

If you have the AFM deleted and you've got the smooth valley cover, the bolts should be tight and we're probably installed with blue loctite.

 

[rdezs]

.... As for the plastic barbell, pull out your cordless drill driver and put a wood screw in about 1/4 inch. Then grab hold of the screw and simply pull it out.

.... Looks like that engine could use more frequent oil changes. I would definitely run some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 in it for a while. Check your PCV hose to the intake and make sure it's cleaned out, and make sure you can blow through the port, driver side valve cover.

 

[solli5pack]

It’s a good idea, but not necessary

Are you calling yourself TheOldMan71 because you were born in 1971 or because your 71?lol...I'm born in 73...an old man also..lol

 

[alvocado]

Im interested to know how much ground clearance you need to have room to drop the trans and move it far enough back to access the crank cover. I just bought 6 ton jack stands to get my Yukon up high enough to do the same job in a couple of weeks. I have a HF 800 lb trans jack and the plate sits a bit high at the lowest position. I couldn’t get the trans out from under an Audi A7 with regular 3 ton stands sitting at 16”.

 

[89Suburban]

Are you calling yourself TheOldMan71 because you were born in 1971 or because your 71?lol...I'm born in 73...an old man also..lol

1973 isn't old man c'mon!!!! You ain't halping my self esteem!

 

[rdezs]

Im interested to know how much ground clearance you need to have room to drop the trans and move it far enough back to access the crank cover. I just bought 6 ton jack stands to get my Yukon up high enough to do the same job in a couple of weeks. I have a HF 800 lb trans jack and the plate sits a bit high at the lowest position. I couldn’t get the trans out from under an Audi A7 with regular 3 ton stands sitting at 16”.

I've used 6 ton jack stands, and I have them sitting on blocks of wood that are 12 inches square and 6 inches high.

I've gotten older and wiser over the years..... I only use the jack stands that have the safety pin to lock them in. Then I have some other big blocks of wood I place under the tires..... Just in case I guess

 

[solli5pack]

Im interested to know how much ground clearance you need to have room to drop the trans and move it far enough back to access the crank cover. I just bought 6 ton jack stands to get my Yukon up high enough to do the same job in a couple of weeks. I have a HF 800 lb trans jack and the plate sits a bit high at the lowest position. I couldn’t get the trans out from under an Audi A7 with regular 3 ton stands sitting at 16”.

If you're doing it on the ground you need a lot more than I have to get it out. The tail is up against that permanent crossmember. Ill work around it but putting in the tourqe converter is going to be fun!

 

[solli5pack]

1973 isn't old man c'mon!!!! You ain't halping my self esteem!

After 50 it's all the same!!!

 

[solli5pack]

I don't recall if you mentioned if you've had the AFM deleted? If so and you find loose bolts holding the VLOM plate down in the valley.... I would only remove one bolt at a time, little bit of blue loctite and torque it down. If you remove the VLOM, technically you're supposed to replace it.

If you have the AFM deleted and you've got the smooth valley cover, the bolts should be tight and we're probably installed with blue loctite.

I deleted the AFM two years ago. Ever since my oil pressure gauge has been reading way high..like ******* on 80. I figured the sensor was glitching. Im curious to see how it reads with a new sensor.

 

[solli5pack]

LOL, it sure beats pointlessly trying to squeeze your entire arm between the transmission and the transmission tunnel, knowing you'll only get 3 inches from the bolt

That notorious list of things "while you are in there" just popped in my mind....
1. A genuine GM ACDelco oil pressure sending unit is sort of a no-brainer when you have the intake off. It's also a good time to consider an oil pressure sending unit relocation kit to make future servicing it much easier.
2. Check the valley cover bolts and see how many are loose..... I can almost guarantee you'll have a couple.
3. Clean the inside of the intake and whatnot with some throttle body cleaner. It's normal to have a little bit of oil pooled in there.

oil pressure sending unit relocation kit?????

 

[rdezs]

Yeah, Google it.... There's several out there. Basically it moves your oil pressure sending unit to the end of a steel braided hose to where you can get to it when you want. Most people end up wire tying it to the firewall out of the way. Makes it really convenient to verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as well

 

[rdezs]

If you're doing it on the ground you need a lot more than I have to get it out. The tail is up against that permanent crossmember. Ill work around it but putting in the tourqe converter is going to be fun!

View attachment 459425

You definitely need a little more height. At this point you could get away by Jackie in the back of the vehicle up an extra 8 or 10 inches

 

[alvocado]

My floor jack is maxed out at around 19" high. Are you using blocks on the jack pad to get extra height? My 6 ton jack stands will extend to just under 24" if I can safely get the truck up that high. I'm in the 50+ club so any extra height is welcomed to lessen the toll on my back. Pulling a transmission on the Audi A7 in February with the car sitting at 15-1/2" nearly broke me.

 

[rdezs]

Yes.... Use a block on the jack pad for the last couple inches

 

[j91z28d1]

My floor jack is maxed out at around 19" high. Are you using blocks on the jack pad to get extra height? My 6 ton jack stands will extend to just under 24" if I can safely get the truck up that high. I'm in the 50+ club so any extra height is welcomed to lessen the toll on my back. Pulling a transmission on the Audi A7 in February with the car sitting at 15-1/2" nearly broke me.

quick jacks go to 24in. plus you can add a suv kit to get a few more. they have gone up in price and you need a place to store them, but I couldn't work at home anymore without them. if you work on a few things, I think it's worth it but a place you can't get a lift

 

[solli5pack]

So GM process is to tighten up the oil pan to housing bolts first? I thought it would be the other way around.