Rc silverado front lift and skyjacker rear lift coils

[87carl]

Have you checked the CV for binding at full suspension droop and with the steering at full lock? If it’s not binding then you may have premature wear but at least it’s not gonna break the first time you hit a rock while turning. Visually it looks right on the edge of the CV articulation range, but photos can be tricky.

Are you saying I want it to bind? And everything is brand new it shouldn't have any premature wear. And it's at almost full droop even with it on its own weight. It only went down a couple inches when I let jack down. My wife asked why I stopped letting it down I pulled the jack out and she was asking why it didn't come down lol

 

[Bill 1960]

Are you saying I want it to bind? And everything is brand new it shouldn't have any premature wear. And it's at almost full droop even with it on its own weight. It only went down a couple inches when I let jack down. My wife asked why I stopped letting it down I pulled the jack out and she was asking why it didn't come down lol

You do not want it to bind. The CV can only handle a certain amount of angle and if that's exceeded the joints will bind up when the ball bearings run out of travel in the housing. Then they break. If you think about how the outer joint moves, it has to flex up/down for suspension travel and right/left to steer. Those two angles add up. So the joint can handle maximum up/down motion when the steering is straight ahead. And of course the CV can handle the most left/right articulation when it's level and parallel to the road.

What I always check after changing ride height is jack it up, let the suspension droop, and spin the tire / hub and make sure the CV is free (hasn't run out of flex). Then turn full left and repeat. Turn full right and repeat. If the CV can't flex that much you'll feel the bind and resistance to turning it by hand. If it's spinning freely at all the angle your suspension + steering combined give it, you are good to go.


The most common failure mode for CV's off road and especially lifted / big tires is having the steering cranked to one side and hitting a hard bump under power. That's when all the parts line up to max out your CV angles.

My comment about premature wear was directed at the future, not the present. A CV running 25 degrees angle is going to wear more than one running 10 degrees. The most common thing I've seen is boots wearing out early from high angle operation.

 

[87carl]

I must have misread your first comment. And I didn't feel any binding when I did that

 

[87carl]

Got front mostly done and back on ground last night. today I did a tape measure and eyeball alignment to get it atleast drivable till I can get it aligned properly. Then took it to town and cruised around got it washed and when I got back I trimmed the front wheel liners and plastic behind the bumper. And got the liner screwed on better. The increased scrub radius from the wheel spacers caused some rubbing. Also put on jeep jk lift sway links in the rear end of my burb yesterday. Still gotta get out front sway bushing bolts so I can install the sway bar and still waiting for the spohn rear arms and panhard. But it is getting close to done well atleast the suspension is lol I can't make it move down hardly at all even sitting on hood so thought it would be stuff but it actually rides amazingly soft and comfortable. Center caps will go on when everything is done Stock suspension measured 34 inches from ground to bottom of wheel well in front 36 from ground to bottom of wheel well in rear. Now it's 39 in front 39.5 in rear. That's after driving about 100 miles So 5 inches lift in front and 3.5 in rear.

 

[87carl]

She is throwing abs and traction control lights now gotta figure out why

 

[Dustin Jackson]

She is throwing abs and traction control lights now gotta figure out why

@87carl A wheel speed sensor cable probably came unplugged, they connect at the top of the frame near the rear shocks.

 

[87carl]

@87carl A wheel speed sensor cable probably came unplugged, they connect at the top of the frame near the rear shocks.

I've had every one of them unplugged during this project I'm betting I didn't get one plugged in fully

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@87carl easy fix

 

[87carl]

@87carl easy fix

If that's actually the problem. I gotta crawl under and check. But been enjoying driving it everywhere last couple days. I can't get over how smooth she rides I have a bad kidney that's pretty sensitive to the bouncing and shit. this is first time in a long time I've been able to drive something alot without it hurting. Bad news it's now throwing a p0016 code crank cam correlation it's been starting hard occasionally for couple weeks assuming that's why. But no other symptoms. Idk how long codes been there haven't scanned it in a couple weeks and lights been on for evap forever. Hopefully thats just a sensor I don't want to get into the timing chain right now.

 

[87carl]

With the 3.5 lift kit lifting the front 5 inches and the rear only coming up 3.5 inches it feels kinda low in the rear and the wife dont like that so definitely going to have to order a set of c50r 5 inch rear lift springs to bring ass up a little bit more.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

With the 3.5 lift kit lifting the front 5 inches and the rear only coming up 3.5 inches it feels kinda low in the rear and the wife dont like that so definitely going to have to order a set of c50r 5 inch rear lift springs to bring ass up a little bit more.

@87carl The more you lift the rear the more your rear axle will become off centered and start sticking out of the passenger side of the tahoe. you will have to address the track bar/pan hard bar.

 

[87carl]

@87carl The more you lift the rear the more your rear axle will become off centered and start sticking out of the passenger side of the tahoe. you will have to address the track bar/pan hard bar.

I ordered spohn adjustable panhard bar and control arms a month ago they keep delaying shipment but eventually they should be here and I can get axle centered

 

[Bill 1960]

A track bar on a slanted angle because of lifting will cause bump steer. If a drop bracket is not in place to level the panhard. I don’t recall if that’s something addressed already in your build or not.

Adjustable length bar will get it centered at rest, but if that is the only fix it will go off center as the suspension cycles.

 

[87carl]

A track bar on a slanted angle because of lifting will cause bump steer. If a drop bracket is not in place to level the panhard. I don’t recall if that’s something addressed already in your build or not.

Adjustable length bar will get it centered at rest, but if that is the only fix it will go off center as the suspension cycles.

Would it be cause bump steer on a rear axle?

 

[Bill 1960]

Would it be cause bump steer on a rear axle?

Oh yeah, when the rear axle moves sideways you’ll change direction. Just like steering a forklift or a boat.

Whether it’s enough to concern you, personally, is for you to decide. There’s plenty of people driving around on lifted Jeeps and other solid axle vehicles every day with bump steer front and/or rear and they’re oblivious to it. It’s just something to be aware of when lifting.

 

[87carl]

Oh yeah, when the rear axle moves sideways you’ll change direction. Just like steering a forklift or a boat.

Whether it’s enough to concern you, personally, is for you to decide. There’s plenty of people driving around on lifted Jeeps and other solid axle vehicles every day with bump steer front and/or rear and they’re oblivious to it. It’s just something to be aware of when lifting.

I will keep an eye out for that

 

[Dustin Jackson]

A track bar on a slanted angle because of lifting will cause bump steer. If a drop bracket is not in place to level the panhard. I don’t recall if that’s something addressed already in your build or not.

Adjustable length bar will get it centered at rest, but if that is the only fix it will go off center as the suspension cycles.

@Bill 1960 Do you have link for that track bar relocation bracket? My track bar is angled just enough to off center the rear wheels. I asked a fabricator to extend my body side track bar mount but he said that the angle of the track bar is so little that I could get away with using an adjustable track bar.

 

[87carl]

Well today was a giant waste if money the only alignment shop nearby I trusted the owner is no longer managing and without him there service has become like every other shop. I told them do alignment and replace the cam and crank sensors and do a crank relearn. They didn't replace the sensors so the relearn was pointless waste of time. Then gave me a line of shit about it needing the new abs sensors relearned and programmed with a scan tool but didn't do it while he had it plugged in. Then what really pissed me off is they charged 100 for alignment plus an extra 80 for an hour labor because it supposedly took 4 hours to align it and they couldn't get it correct supposedly alignment cams are maxed out which they are not I looked when I got home. So that was a waste of a day and 250 bucks. Do abs sensors need relearned if you replace wheelbearings?

 

[Bill 1960]

No, they straight up lied to you on multiple items .

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Well today was a giant waste if money the only alignment shop nearby I trusted the owner is no longer managing and without him there service has become like every other shop. I told them do alignment and replace the cam and crank sensors and do a crank relearn. They didn't replace the sensors so the relearn was pointless waste of time. Then gave me a line of shit about it needing the new abs sensors relearned and programmed with a scan tool but didn't do it while he had it plugged in. Then what really pissed me off is they charged 100 for alignment plus an extra 80 for an hour labor because it supposedly took 4 hours to align it and they couldn't get it correct supposedly alignment cams are maxed out which they are not I looked when I got home. So that was a waste of a day and 250 bucks. Do abs sensors need relearned if you replace wheelbearings?

@87carl No I replaced both my front hubs and didn't have to do anything other than bolt and plug them in.