2011 Suburban 2500 Rear Axle Swap

[6point5diesel]

Hello All. I've just received some bad news. My rear axle is destroyed on my 2011 Suburban 2500.

I have a 2011 Suburban 2500 4X4 with the G80 locker and 3.73s.

I am having a heck of a hard time finding a wrecked replacement unit. My current only option seems to be a rebuild for $5,400 CDN (+install) or a Remanufactured unit for $5,500 CDN (+install).

I am about to bite the bullet. But would just like to make sure that I understand all my options.

As far as I know; the 2007-2013 Suburban 2500 have a similar bolt pattern to the 1999 to 2006 Silverado 2500/3500HDs. The 2007-13 Suburban is a bit-of-an odd-ball since they are more closely related to the 1999-2006 Suburban 2500HDs. GM used the same frame when they updated the body. (This is how I am understanding it.)


The last thing I would like to know; is it possible to swap in a 1999-2006 Silverado 2500HD (Duramax) rear axle. The 3.73s were only available in those years behind the Duramax. I understand that the Duramax had a bigger axle. A 14 bolt FF 11.50 Ring instead of the 10.50Ring that I have.

I know that the U-joint will be different; and it seems that there is a conversion joint available.

What could possibly stop me from making this swap?

The only thing I can think of is that the spring perches or the shock mounts might be different.


Your thoughts please?


Thank you!!!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

Try this source to see if you can find what you are looking for:

https://www.lkqcorp.com/buyparts/

 

[Bigburb3500]

Hello All. I've just received some bad news. My rear axle is destroyed on my 2011 Suburban 2500.

I have a 2011 Suburban 2500 4X4 with the G80 locker and 3.73s.

I am having a heck of a hard time finding a wrecked replacement unit. My current only option seems to be a rebuild for $5,400 CDN (+install) or a Remanufactured unit for $5,500 CDN (+install).

I am about to bite the bullet. But would just like to make sure that I understand all my options.

As far as I know; the 2007-2013 Suburban 2500 have a similar bolt pattern to the 1999 to 2006 Silverado 2500/3500HDs. The 2007-13 Suburban is a bit-of-an odd-ball since they are more closely related to the 1999-2006 Suburban 2500HDs. GM used the same frame when they updated the body. (This is how I am understanding it.)


The last thing I would like to know; is it possible to swap in a 1999-2006 Silverado 2500HD (Duramax) rear axle. The 3.73s were only available in those years behind the Duramax. I understand that the Duramax had a bigger axle. A 14 bolt FF 11.50 Ring instead of the 10.50Ring that I have.

I know that the U-joint will be different; and it seems that there is a conversion joint available.

What could possibly stop me from making this swap?

The only thing I can think of is that the spring perches or the shock mounts might be different.


Your thoughts please?


Thank you!!!

This is an interesting idea… I don’t have any experience with this but might want to check total width as well. Not sure if there are differences there too.

 

[strutaeng]

Does your truck have any independent speed sensors on the rear wheels? If not, then it should swap just fine (edit: IDK if the spring perches are the same with b/w GMT800 and GMT900?). Why not look into the 2500HD GMT900 trucks? Any gas model in that class will have a 14 bolt 10.5" full float axle like your axle.

Do you know what happened to your axle? Did they not give you specifics? Why can't it be rebuilt? Usually the ring/pinion, carrier, bearings/races can be replaced. Unless you get a bad accident where the housing gets bent, normal wear can be addressed with a rebuild.

 

[Geotrash]

Hello All. I've just received some bad news. My rear axle is destroyed on my 2011 Suburban 2500.

I have a 2011 Suburban 2500 4X4 with the G80 locker and 3.73s.

I am having a heck of a hard time finding a wrecked replacement unit. My current only option seems to be a rebuild for $5,400 CDN (+install) or a Remanufactured unit for $5,500 CDN (+install).

That's high. I just had the rear axle rebuilt on my 2018 Suburban 3500HD (10.5" ring gear, full floater, 4.10s) and paid $2,800 USD, out the door. That included a new OEM ring and pinion gears, all new Timken bearings, and all new seals. It only had 25K miles on it but a factory defect allowed one of the axle adjusters to back off and it trashed the gears and bearings.

The last thing I would like to know; is it possible to swap in a 1999-2006 Silverado 2500HD (Duramax) rear axle. The 3.73s were only available in those years behind the Duramax. I understand that the Duramax had a bigger axle. A 14 bolt FF 11.50 Ring instead of the 10.50Ring that I have.

As I understand it, you won't have enough clearance for the 11.5" to fit under the body without a lift kit, which is why they use the 10.5" on the Suburbans. The top of the rear diff could contact the body before the bump stops can prevent it under heavy load with a big bump.

I know that the U-joint will be different; and it seems that there is a conversion joint available.

What could possibly stop me from making this swap?

The ABS/TC encoders, as another poster mentioned. I'd shop around for a better price on the rebuild for yours. It's not a hard job for a pro.

 

[6point5diesel]

Does your truck have any independent speed sensors on the rear wheels? If not, then it should swap just fine (edit: IDK if the spring perches are the same with b/w GMT800 and GMT900?). Why not look into the 2500HD GMT900 trucks? Any gas model in that class will have a 14 bolt 10.5" full float axle like your axle.

Do you know what happened to your axle? Did they not give you specifics? Why can't it be rebuilt? Usually the ring/pinion, carrier, bearings/races can be replaced. Unless you get a bad accident where the housing gets bent, normal wear can be addressed with a rebuild.

I am going to do some measuring this weekend. I recently learned that 2007 to 2010 2500HDs came with 3.73 as an option; and have the same bolt pattern. So far; I am thinking the spring perch width is my biggest hurdle.

As for the wheel speed sensors; I would think I should only have the ABS sensor.


Here's my pics.

 

[6point5diesel]

This is an interesting idea… I don’t have any experience with this but might want to check total width as well. Not sure if there are differences there too.

Good point. From all my research; it appears that the Suburbans have a 67" rear track width vs. 66" for the 2500HDs. This might not be a hurdle.

 

[6point5diesel]

That's high. I just had the rear axle rebuilt on my 2018 Suburban 3500HD (10.5" ring gear, full floater, 4.10s) and paid $2,800 USD, out the door. That included a new OEM ring and pinion gears, all new Timken bearings, and all new seals. It only had 25K miles on it but a factory defect allowed one of the axle adjusters to back off and it trashed the gears and bearings.


As I understand it, you won't have enough clearance for the 11.5" to fit under the body without a lift kit, which is why they use the 10.5" on the Suburbans. The top of the rear diff could contact the body before the bump stops can prevent it under heavy load with a big bump.


The ABS/TC encoders, as another poster mentioned. I'd shop around for a better price on the rebuild for yours. It's not a hard job for a pro.

I think my problem is there is a lack of vendors in my city. I live in Saskatchewan. The only guy in town was the $5,400CDN quote.


I am still piecing together how this happened to a ~30,000 mile axle. No leaks. Not low on fluid.

Please look at the pictures above. One of my axle adjusters (for the carrier) is missing the hold down bolt. I am thinking my axle issue is similar to yours.

Do you have any more info about 14 bolts FF with a factory defect?

I can't seem to find much on the net regarding this.

Thanks

 

[strutaeng]

I am going to do some measuring this weekend. I recently learned that 2007 to 2010 2500HDs came with 3.73 as an option; and have the same bolt pattern. So far; I am thinking the spring perch width is my biggest hurdle.

As for the wheel speed sensors; I would think I should only have the ABS sensor.


Here's my pics.

Yikes! That's pretty bad.

If all that's have to be done is reweld the spring perches, that's definitely not a deal breaker, even if you have to get a welding shop to do that for you? Can you weld or have a buddy that can?

 

[kurtibm]

Hello All. I've just received some bad news. My rear axle is destroyed on my 2011 Suburban 2500.

I have a 2011 Suburban 2500 4X4 with the G80 locker and 3.73s.

I am having a heck of a hard time finding a wrecked replacement unit. My current only option seems to be a rebuild for $5,400 CDN (+install) or a Remanufactured unit for $5,500 CDN (+install).

I am about to bite the bullet. But would just like to make sure that I understand all my options.

As far as I know; the 2007-2013 Suburban 2500 have a similar bolt pattern to the 1999 to 2006 Silverado 2500/3500HDs. The 2007-13 Suburban is a bit-of-an odd-ball since they are more closely related to the 1999-2006 Suburban 2500HDs. GM used the same frame when they updated the body. (This is how I am understanding it.)


The last thing I would like to know; is it possible to swap in a 1999-2006 Silverado 2500HD (Duramax) rear axle. The 3.73s were only available in those years behind the Duramax. I understand that the Duramax had a bigger axle. A 14 bolt FF 11.50 Ring instead of the 10.50Ring that I have.

I know that the U-joint will be different; and it seems that there is a conversion joint available.

What could possibly stop me from making this swap?

The only thing I can think of is that the spring perches or the shock mounts might be different.


Your thoughts please?


Thank you!!!

 

[swathdiver]

Hello All. I've just received some bad news. My rear axle is destroyed on my 2011 Suburban 2500.

Your thoughts please?

What specifically is damaged and or destroyed?

If the housing is good you can certainly rebuild it.

 

[6point5diesel]

Thanks Kurt. We did look through these three.

1. The one in Weyburn with ~157,000 miles; the wrecker couldn't confirm the mileage or condition.
2 & 3. The last two have north of 255,000 miles.

If I was going to dump the vehicle; I would consider these axles. Since my Suburban has ~30,000 miles; It may just be worth getting it rebuilt.

 

[6point5diesel]

What specifically is damaged and or destroyed?

If the housing is good you can certainly rebuild it.

As far as we figure; the housing is fine. Needs a full overhaul kit. New bearings, seals, ring, pinion, axle shafts, carrier + G80, and cover. All the guts are pooched.

The problem I am having is that I am not finding too many options to locally rebuild it. Just the $5,500 CAD for the remanufactured axle. Sounds like this will be done down east. Detroit or Windsor. Possibly next door to the AAM factory.

 

[kurtibm]

Thanks Kurt. We did look through these three.

1. The one in Weyburn with ~157,000 miles; the wrecker couldn't confirm the mileage or condition.
2 & 3. The last two have north of 255,000 miles.

If I was going to dump the vehicle; I would consider these axles. Since my Suburban has ~30,000 miles; It may just be worth getting it rebuilt.

You are most welcome. Found THIS one.... maybe not a huge savings but may be a consideration. Their # is 888-752-1118

 

[swathdiver]

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://aamaftermarket.s3.amazonaws.com/resources/pdf/file-20150608153906.pdf



Remember, AAMs website is DemandAAM.com.

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

Genuine OEM GM Parts and Accessories Online - GM Parts Giant

GMPartsGiant.com is a trusted online store for Genuine OEM GM Parts and accessories. We offer fast shipping and wholesale prices. Superb customer service and online inventory make us the #1.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

You can figure out which kits you need from this information. I often buy from East Coast Gear Supply and C and M Gearworks, both on Ebay and at their respective websites.

 

[Fless]

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://aamaftermarket.s3.amazonaws.com/resources/pdf/file-20150608153906.pdf

View attachment 467750

Remember, AAMs website is DemandAAM.com.

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

Genuine OEM GM Parts and Accessories Online - GM Parts Giant

GMPartsGiant.com is a trusted online store for Genuine OEM GM Parts and accessories. We offer fast shipping and wholesale prices. Superb customer service and online inventory make us the #1.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

You can figure out which kits you need from this information. I often buy from East Coast Gear Supply and C and M Gearworks, both on Ebay and at their respective websites.

Here's a working link to the diagram and list above:

AAM-Link

 

[Geotrash]

I think my problem is there is a lack of vendors in my city. I live in Saskatchewan. The only guy in town was the $5,400CDN quote.


I am still piecing together how this happened to a ~30,000 mile axle. No leaks. Not low on fluid.

Please look at the pictures above. One of my axle adjusters (for the carrier) is missing the hold down bolt. I am thinking my axle issue is similar to yours.

Do you have any more info about 14 bolts FF with a factory defect?

I can't seem to find much on the net regarding this.

Thanks

This is the first 14-bolt that I've owned so I'm not an expert here, but it seems that the nature of the defect in yours was the same as the defect in mine. Specifically, an improperly installed (or missing) adjuster retainer on one side. Mine took about 20K miles to start making noise.

The guy who rebuilt mine runs a custom 4x4 shop and he deals with a ton of Jeeps. The AAM 14-bolt in our trucks is the same one they install in Jeeps when the owner wants a bulletproof off-road rig. They're well-known as being super rugged and reliable, and he said this is the first one he's seen in his 15 years running the shop that had this particular factory defect.

 

[swathdiver]

Hey Dave, it's missing on the right!

@Geotrash

 

[Geotrash]

Hey Dave, it's missing on the right!

@Geotrash

Good eye! Saw that. Bet it was the same assembler’

 

[strutaeng]

Friday 4:59 PM build date?! Lol

That clip is only to apply side bearing preload in equal increments, right? Actually, it's to lock down the adjuster? Once that's achieved the bearing caps holds everything down IIRC. Or what are we talking about?

But the fact that it's missing raises big questions... SMH