Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[randeez]

Progress.

i was looking at blowers the other night just to bypass all this turbo exhaust routing leaking bs

 

[iamdub]

i was looking at blowers the other night just to bypass all this turbo exhaust routing leaking bs

Dewit. Offload all that leaking turbo trash on that bottom feeder in Louisiana.

 

[George B]

Wouldn't an SC work better for a lifted 4x4 anyway? I mean, we should be all about function and reliability... I vote yes.

 

[randeez]

Wouldn't an SC work better for a lifted 4x4 anyway? I mean, we should be all about function and reliability... I vote yes.

Yea but sc cost, new cam, new converter, new headers would all need to be swapped

 

[89Suburban]

Yea but sc cost, new cam, new converter, new headers would all need to be swapped

Git too it. And the sale to the bottom feeding swamp thang will help recoup come cost.

 

[pwtr02ss]

oil pan swapped - first drive no oil leaks! no leak at turbo drain, also put a new oring on the dipstick it was leaking a little before doesnt seem to be now but i can finally clean it all up and not having it covered in oil in a few days. will check/retorque all the bolts after a couple drives. and the oil cooler blockoff plate i found a new oring for it also, the one that was in there was pretty crusty and leaking also.

front driveshaft is swapped for the longer one i had. i was working on measuring and it came out that it only needed to be shortened like 1/2" but could be up to 1" and still be fine. but the socket in the transfercase was full of gunk or something it would only go in like 2 inches and then just stop. i went around the inside with a pick and a wire brush trying to clear out whatever was in there. ended up just having to push the splines in as far as theyd go in and out a handful of times. its stuffed in there pretty far, the little boot is pretty much completely collapsed but its in there kinda tight but shouldnt matter. the other driveshaft was a little short so splines only went in maybe 2/3s of their length and it did have some play on that end - will see if vibrations go away but with the CAD in there now not likely i'll be doing 80mph with 4wd locked in.

speaking of the CAD, wiring looks pretty simple. im going to end up with a master switch to energize and retract (2wd) and looking at wiring diagram it looks like one of the plugs in the transfer case just has a simple dry contact to complete the ground to extend (4wd) the CAD when put in 4hi/4lo so it will be somewhat automatically done when thrown in 4wd.

exhaust is still fucko'd and i cant really tune the idle with the o2 sensors not reading correctly, having it in open loop works but the cold starts kinda suck. would like it to work right so prob going to have to take it all back apart and make sure all the manifold surfaces are flat, actually fix the crossover, just whatever have some motivation to mess with it going to try and do it this weekend. im getting pissed i cant get it tuned to idle good but its just not going to happen until i can get the exhaust all sealed up tight.

Had me in the first half..."Talk dirty to me RANDeeez!!!!" Cramming that shaft deep until the rubber is fully collapsed.

I'm gonna need some of that idle expertise on a gen 3 that likes to surge at idle (only when you first start it, maybe the first 30-45 seconds in gear then levels out), eventually. Is yours just because of an exhaust leak?

 

[randeez]

Had me in the first half..."Talk dirty to me RANDeeez!!!!" Cramming that shaft deep until the rubber is fully collapsed.

I'm gonna need some of that idle expertise on a gen 3 that likes to surge at idle (only when you first start it, maybe the first 30-45 seconds in gear then levels out), eventually. Is yours just because of an exhaust leak?

I hope so...there 10% difference in trim between banks. The leak doesn't act like a leak at low velocity. It draws air in and the extra o2 throws the reading off. And the one I think should be tight is the one that is off

 

[pwtr02ss]

I hope so...there 10% difference in trim between banks. The leak doesn't act like a leak at low velocity. It draws air in and the extra o2 throws the reading off. And the one I think should be tight is the one that is off

Makes senses. Well, I hope you get it sealed up over the weekend. I'm 100% sure you'll get the tune sorted

 

[randeez]

Makes senses. Well, I hope you get it sealed up over the weekend. I'm 100% sure you'll get the tune sorted

i uhhh, not sure you should let me touch anything else...this was a rough one
so i started taking it back apart, made the cut for the flex section, the flange i ordered was for 2.5" pipe (crossover is 2.25) so couldnt use it anyway. the remflex gaskets were close and i couldve made them work but they werent tight on the pipe anyway where my problem is. i pulled passenger side and weld was just junk to the flange so i grindered the welds off and cleaned it up. welded once, still no penortration, grindr'd it all back off, cranked welded to the max and was able to get some heat into it and looks 100x better, that with the flex section it should get any binding on it it should hold.
so then comes the imma dumbass part.
driverside is basically still stock manifold and about 6" from that is the o2, stock flange, was baffled as to why in the logger it looked like there was a huge exhaust leak on just that side after i put new pan on and loaded it up with rtv a couple days ago. so i have the crossover cut in half im cleaning it up to see where flex lays out - I had a weld there already so i know i wanted to cut it out and put the flex where it was. i look at the o2 sensor and i can see that the crush washer has a tiny bit of room on both sides of it - i figure it just bottomed out or jammed up something - nope the o2 sensor was just in there not even hand tight about two full threads shy of even being snug
cross over with flex section is back in, laid another heavy bead of rtv between the flanges, with the donut gasket, letting it set up a little right now (says let setup for an hour before torqueing down) and then will give it a day or two to fully cure before i try to start and see how fuel trims look.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yea but sc cost, new cam, new converter, new headers would all need to be swapped

And?