Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,031
Reaction score
18,444
Location
south florida
Yukon-fixed

No not really, I put the front axle disconnect actuator back in, she smooth up to 100, so guessing front driveshaft angle is no bueno. I still have the stock axle in one side so it's possible the RCVs aren't completely junk. I'm not swapping it back in just to confirm at the moment tho.
Not sure what to do to reduce front axle angle though...it's pretty much turned down as much as possible and laying on the rear crossmember right now. Gotta get under it and see what I can make happen.
Drilled a hole in the new oil pan for turbo drain. I vaguely remember that the oil pickup tube runs down that side and I couldn't put a bulkhead type fitting in, that's why I ened up getting it welded. Which was a my first choice anyway but the warping shit is a little annoying. Going to try drilling and tapping for a 1/2npt to 10an fitting, and drown it in thead sealer.
 
OP
OP
randeez

randeez

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Posts
6,031
Reaction score
18,444
Location
south florida
oil pan swapped - first drive no oil leaks! no leak at turbo drain, also put a new oring on the dipstick it was leaking a little before doesnt seem to be now but i can finally clean it all up and not having it covered in oil in a few days. will check/retorque all the bolts after a couple drives. and the oil cooler blockoff plate i found a new oring for it also, the one that was in there was pretty crusty and leaking also.

front driveshaft is swapped for the longer one i had. i was working on measuring and it came out that it only needed to be shortened like 1/2" but could be up to 1" and still be fine. but the socket in the transfercase was full of gunk or something it would only go in like 2 inches and then just stop. i went around the inside with a pick and a wire brush trying to clear out whatever was in there. ended up just having to push the splines in as far as theyd go in and out a handful of times. its stuffed in there pretty far, the little boot is pretty much completely collapsed but its in there kinda tight but shouldnt matter. the other driveshaft was a little short so splines only went in maybe 2/3s of their length and it did have some play on that end - will see if vibrations go away but with the CAD in there now not likely i'll be doing 80mph with 4wd locked in.

speaking of the CAD, wiring looks pretty simple. im going to end up with a master switch to energize and retract (2wd) and looking at wiring diagram it looks like one of the plugs in the transfer case just has a simple dry contact to complete the ground to extend (4wd) the CAD when put in 4hi/4lo so it will be somewhat automatically done when thrown in 4wd.

exhaust is still fucko'd and i cant really tune the idle with the o2 sensors not reading correctly, having it in open loop works but the cold starts kinda suck. would like it to work right so prob going to have to take it all back apart and make sure all the manifold surfaces are flat, actually fix the crossover, just whatever have some motivation to mess with it going to try and do it this weekend. im getting pissed i cant get it tuned to idle good but its just not going to happen until i can get the exhaust all sealed up tight.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Posts
25,961
Reaction score
50,621
Location
Oregon
oil pan swapped - first drive no oil leaks! no leak at turbo drain, also put a new oring on the dipstick it was leaking a little before doesnt seem to be now but i can finally clean it all up and not having it covered in oil in a few days. will check/retorque all the bolts after a couple drives. and the oil cooler blockoff plate i found a new oring for it also, the one that was in there was pretty crusty and leaking also.

front driveshaft is swapped for the longer one i had. i was working on measuring and it came out that it only needed to be shortened like 1/2" but could be up to 1" and still be fine. but the socket in the transfercase was full of gunk or something it would only go in like 2 inches and then just stop. i went around the inside with a pick and a wire brush trying to clear out whatever was in there. ended up just having to push the splines in as far as theyd go in and out a handful of times. its stuffed in there pretty far, the little boot is pretty much completely collapsed but its in there kinda tight but shouldnt matter. the other driveshaft was a little short so splines only went in maybe 2/3s of their length and it did have some play on that end - will see if vibrations go away but with the CAD in there now not likely i'll be doing 80mph with 4wd locked in.

speaking of the CAD, wiring looks pretty simple. im going to end up with a master switch to energize and retract (2wd) and looking at wiring diagram it looks like one of the plugs in the transfer case just has a simple dry contact to complete the ground to extend (4wd) the CAD when put in 4hi/4lo so it will be somewhat automatically done when thrown in 4wd.

exhaust is still fucko'd and i cant really tune the idle with the o2 sensors not reading correctly, having it in open loop works but the cold starts kinda suck. would like it to work right so prob going to have to take it all back apart and make sure all the manifold surfaces are flat, actually fix the crossover, just whatever have some motivation to mess with it going to try and do it this weekend. im getting pissed i cant get it tuned to idle good but its just not going to happen until i can get the exhaust all sealed up tight.
Progress. :happy107:
 
Top