Planning Dual 12" Rockville Install: Can I bypass Bose "Bass Choke" without a full rewire?

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iboughtatahoe23

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2014 Tahoe LT with Bose audio (non touchscreen)

I’m currently running Kicker 48ESC65 speakers in my rear doors and have a Rockville RV12.2B dual 12-inch kit on the way. I’m trying to plan my signal integration now so I don’t run into the same "choked" bass issues I had with my previous slim 10-inch.


I know the Bose amp applies heavy processing and roll-off. To get the cleanest audio and proper frequency separation, I’m looking at two paths:


1. Console Sub Tap: Moving my Metra LOC taps from the rear doors to the factory sub wires in the center console. My theory is that since Bose already filters these for low-end, I’ll get a better bass signal than the doors provide.


2. The "Pre-Amp" Bypass: Using the PAC AOEM-GM1416 to grab the signal behind the head unit before the Bose amp messes with it.


The Goal:


I want to use the head unit for clean mids/highs and the bass remote for the 12s. I’m planning to keep the head unit bass flat or negative to prevent the Bose amp from "choking" the signal, then use the Rockville's gain to bring the volume back up.


For those who have done this on the 2007-2014 GM trucks: is the console tap "clean" enough for dual 12s, or is the PAC harness a mandatory move to keep the Bose DSP from ruining the frequency response or can I keep running the loc wired to the rear door speakers.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Currently I have my loc wired and tapped to my rear door speakers.
 

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2014 Tahoe LT with Bose audio (non touchscreen)

I’m currently running Kicker 48ESC65 speakers in my rear doors and have a Rockville RV12.2B dual 12-inch kit on the way. I’m trying to plan my signal integration now so I don’t run into the same "choked" bass issues I had with my previous slim 10-inch.


I know the Bose amp applies heavy processing and roll-off. To get the cleanest audio and proper frequency separation, I’m looking at two paths:


1. Console Sub Tap: Moving my Metra LOC taps from the rear doors to the factory sub wires in the center console. My theory is that since Bose already filters these for low-end, I’ll get a better bass signal than the doors provide.


2. The "Pre-Amp" Bypass: Using the PAC AOEM-GM1416 to grab the signal behind the head unit before the Bose amp messes with it.


The Goal:


I want to use the head unit for clean mids/highs and the bass remote for the 12s. I’m planning to keep the head unit bass flat or negative to prevent the Bose amp from "choking" the signal, then use the Rockville's gain to bring the volume back up.


For those who have done this on the 2007-2014 GM trucks: is the console tap "clean" enough for dual 12s, or is the PAC harness a mandatory move to keep the Bose DSP from ruining the frequency response or can I keep running the loc wired to the rear door speakers.
If you are using the stock radio/amp for the source you most definitely need a bass restore such as the Lc2i or LC2i pro or better
otherwise it will sound like complete crap, trust me on this. And the best place to tap is the output from radio (before amp) or output from amp bass out. door speaker output is heavily filtered already.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0?th=1
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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If you are using the stock radio/amp for the source you most definitely need a bass restore such as the Lc2i or LC2i pro or better
otherwise it will sound like complete crap, trust me on this. And the best place to tap is the output from radio (before amp) or output from amp bass out. door speaker output is heavily filtered already.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0?th=1
A bit out of the budget at the moment. Any thing else I can try?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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wondering where the amp for the sub would be to try wiring the LOC I currently have to the amp? I’ve heard under the cupholders, I’ve also heard under the seats
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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under center console, if you lift the cup holder out (it just lifts up) you can sort of access it there
Enough acess to tap the amp? Also with my current Metra LOC, is this better than the speakers in the meantime until I can get that lc2i?
 

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89Suburban

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I am running JL Audio CP210-W0v3 off a AudioControl EPIC750 amp tapped into the sub harness under the cup holders with a regular line converter.

I keep a roll of TP in the cup holder tray and that wedge sub will make it walk and dance around. It hits HARD.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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I am running JL Audio CP210-W0v3 off a AudioControl EPIC750 amp tapped into the sub harness under the cup holders with a regular line converter.

I keep a roll of TP in the cup holder tray and that wedge sub will make it walk and dance around. It hits HARD.
Love to hear it man
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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I am running JL Audio CP210-W0v3 off a AudioControl EPIC750 amp tapped into the sub harness under the cup holders with a regular line converter.

I keep a roll of TP in the cup holder tray and that wedge sub will make it walk and dance around. It hits HARD.
So u tapped the 16 pin harness ? What wires exactly ?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Update: Got the new Rockville RV12.2B dual 12s and separate amp. Power, ground, remote wire all good — green light comes on clean with just those three connected. As soon as I plug in the RCA cables from my LOC it throws into protect mode. Disconnected everything from the LOC, still happens. Thinking the LOC might be sending DC voltage through the RCA outputs and triggering protect.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Ugh what a nightmare this is man..

About to just bite the bullet and take it into some shop and just pay the labor and call it a day. I’m sure they’ll get it done in an hour.
 

89Suburban

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I'm sorry I ddn;t get pics yet, I'll post it up in an hour when I get out of work.

Did you tap into the input side of the factory sub correct?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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I'm sorry I ddn;t get pics yet, I'll post it up in an hour when I get out of work.

Did you tap into the input side of the factory sub correct?
I haven’t even done that yet. I’m still trying to get everything to work off of the door speakers because the old slim powered sub. Same brand worked fine with this set up. I don’t know why it wouldn’t work with this one.
 

89Suburban

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