Planning Dual 12" Rockville Install: Can I bypass Bose "Bass Choke" without a full rewire?

[iboughtatahoe23]

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Idk wat wires

 

[89Suburban]

Already some taps in there the yellow things wat dat bout

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Already some taps in there the yellow things wat dat bout

From what I thought was the right wires last time. My LOC is only two channels so I only need a tap one set I believe. That how it was on the door anyway and it worked

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I moved the tap from the rear door speakers to the factory sub wires at the Bose amp (Dark Blue/White and Light Green/Black).


Power and ground at the amp test good (12.8V). If I jump 12V straight to the REM terminal the green light comes on no problem. But the fuse tap (and the LOC Blue remote wire) aren’t turning the amp on anymore. It was kinda working before I moved the tap, now it’s dead unless I jumper it.


Video here on YouTube of my set up.

YouTube

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Yaaa pretty sure I just destroyed this I tried tapping All these wires. I’m not getting any signal or sound fron my subwoofer. Power to the amp is good just not getting any sound no matter what I do with these ******* wires, but I’m starting to get really frustrated with this shit.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I know this power is this sub because I unplugged it and the stock sub stops playing, but when I tap it for signal with my LOC my ******* amp just doesn’t wanna pick it up for whatever reason.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Update: Got it working! Ended up using the high level inputs on the amp tapped directly into the Bose amp sub output wires under the center console. Dark blue/white stripe was the positive. Dual 12s are hitting now.
Need help dialing it in though. Bass EQ/boost is off, gain is set on the amp, then I use the remote bass knob to bring it up to where I want it. The deep low notes sound great but the higher bass frequencies sound distorted/farty. Low pass filter is turned down but still getting that sound on the higher bass notes.
Running 2014 Tahoe Bose through high level inputs — is the Bose signal just not clean enough or is there a tuning fix? Would a better LOC like the CT Sounds LC2 with BassLift actually fix this?

 

[Doubeleive]

Update: Got it working! Ended up using the high level inputs on the amp tapped directly into the Bose amp sub output wires under the center console. Dark blue/white stripe was the positive. Dual 12s are hitting now.
Need help dialing it in though. Bass EQ/boost is off, gain is set on the amp, then I use the remote bass knob to bring it up to where I want it. The deep low notes sound great but the higher bass frequencies sound distorted/farty. Low pass filter is turned down but still getting that sound on the higher bass notes.
Running 2014 Tahoe Bose through high level inputs — is the Bose signal just not clean enough or is there a tuning fix? Would a better LOC like the CT Sounds LC2 with BassLift actually fix this?

That's why I said it needs a bass restore or it will sound like crap, works yes sound= bleh

 

[Doubeleive]

And if you have to cut a harness leave some length to be able to patch it back later if need be, cutting too short is a problem down the road if you decide to sell it or whatever and want to keep your equipment for another vehicle

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

And if you have to cut a harness leave some length to be able to patch it back later if need be, cutting too short is a problem down the road if you decide to sell it or whatever and want to keep your equipment for another vehicle

Yeah, I should be able to throw that hardness back on there. Just fine if need be. I’m going to look into that base restore.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Seriously tho thanks guys for the help. Not only this post but through the years. Thanks for watching me cuss at no one and nothing!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I understand your pain. I took the easy way out and stripped out all of the Bose equipment, and I went with a fully aftermarket system. But, then again, I was never a fan of the Bose sound.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I understand your pain. I took the easy way out and stripped out all of the Bose equipment, and I went with a fully aftermarket system. But, then again, I was never a fan of the Bose sound.

How hard is this to do? At the least I was considering a better loc or a head unit?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

How hard is this to do? At the least I was considering a better loc or a head unit?

When I say that I changed out everything, I meant EVERYTHING, except the existing wires to the door and post speakers. That meant changing the head unit, interface unit, amps, and speakers. It is fairly simple, as everything is plug and play, and involved no cutting of wires, except wiring the existing speaker wires to the new amp's outputs.

I will note that the speaker impedance of the Bose speakers is not standard, so running an aftermarket amp into Bose speakers will not produce great sound.

 

[Doubeleive]

How hard is this to do? At the least I was considering a better loc or a head unit?

The hardest part is handing out the money, cheap parts = cheap results, that's just how it goes, especially in car audio.
you can leave the factory amp in there and just bypass it completely if need be
the goal in replacing a bose system is to beat the bose sound, bose uses trickery to produce good sound from a very efficient design. so when you go to replace it you have to replace all of it. when I say trickery they use non standard ohm's and voltages that are not standard in the aftermarket world.
you might see 1,2,4 ohm's in typical audio equipment while bose uses 2.5, 3.6, 7, etc... they don't share their secret either, the system design is not shared with the public.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

The hardest part is handing out the money, cheap parts = cheap results, that's just how it goes, especially in car audio.
you can leave the factory amp in there and just bypass it completely if need be
the goal in replacing a bose system is to beat the bose sound, bose uses trickery to produce good sound from a very efficient design. so when you go to replace it you have to replace all of it. when I say trickery they use non standard ohm's and voltages that are not standard in the aftermarket world.
you might see 1,2,4 ohm's in typical audio equipment while bose uses 2.5, 3.6, 7, etc... they don't share their secret either, the system design is not shared with the public.

Yeah, I noticed that was kind of weird. I was replacing my rear door speakers and I replaced them with 4 ohm speakers because that was as close to the 3.86 ohm reading from the factory ones.

 

[Doubeleive]

people will go and buy new door speakers and install them and then it sounds like a turd, why? because the ohm's are not what Bose used.
and they use filters on all channels so the old speaker was say a 1-way and you put in two-way even if the ohm's match it's not going to sound like what you expect.
that's the same reason you can't just slap a line adapter to a bass speaker and expect to get good bass, the bass signal was never there to begin with.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

When I say that I changed out everything, I meant EVERYTHING, except the existing wires to the door and post speakers. That meant changing the head unit, interface unit, amps, and speakers. It is fairly simple, as everything is plug and play, and involved no cutting of wires, except wiring the existing speaker wires to the new amp's outputs.

I will note that the speaker impedance of the Bose speakers is not standard, so running an aftermarket amp into Bose speakers will not produce great sound.

So it’s not like you’re gutting wire from the doors and rewiring the whole system right? Because that’s what I was kind of picturing.

 

[Doubeleive]

even the factory sub is tuned to a specific hertz, hence the bass restore is needed