OP
OP
She will never notice a thing probably. I plan on disabling AFM with HPTuners. Just have not done it yet. It is a 2014 with 130K so i need to do it soonish i spose.
OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.
- Thread starter SpareParts
- Start date
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OP
OP
Got the replacement engine tore down for the gaskets and seals im replacing.
Overall not bad looking on the inside, but the heads do have a little sludge built up in them. It's not hard and baked, just gooey.
Need to flip it on its side to clean that out so none of it gets into the engine pita, but i can't leave it in there.
The oil pan has some gunk in the bottom like the heads, but i did not see any sparkly stuff at all and that's a big relief!
Overall not bad looking on the inside, but the heads do have a little sludge built up in them. It's not hard and baked, just gooey.
Need to flip it on its side to clean that out so none of it gets into the engine pita, but i can't leave it in there.
The oil pan has some gunk in the bottom like the heads, but i did not see any sparkly stuff at all and that's a big relief!
mikeyss
Full Access Member
You may want to Google info about those 5364 heads. I believe they have some issues, so if your current engine has 821/823 heads, use those instead
OP
OP
I actually did check on them as i had never seen them.
Are you thinking the 823 heads that are known to crack if they have a casting mark that looks like a battery?
As far as i can find reading 5364 heads are as good as the other two casting number heads you normally find on 6.2L engines.
petethepug
Michael
Oh, here’s a bad idea. Rebuild the 6.2 and return the 5.3 for the core deposit 
OP
OP
Though of that. Have a 5.3 here and asked if that would work. Big NOPE!
Good try though
Good try though
mikeyss
Full Access Member
Hmmm.. When I was doing my research before building my 6.2, I remember it being the 5364 heads that had issues. When I get off work later, I will try and find the info I found back then. I definitely don't want to spread false information.
OP
OP
My thinking is it has ran this long. If I going to start putting different heads on it and stuff I might as well rebuild the bad one in it.
Jims2013Yukon
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2024
- Posts
- 2
- Reaction score
- 4
I had low pressure on my 5.3 with 180k miles. So I dropped the oil pan and replaced the o ring on the oil pick up tube. Increased oil pressure when hot from 15 to 25 at idle and from 25 up to 45 at 2500 rpm.
petethepug
Michael
As you can see the oil press sensor is conveniently located at the back of the motor and easy to access (as long as the motor is out).
Be sure to use an OEM sensor in there from a reputable source. The market is flooded with offshore counterfeit crap. You don’t want to replace that buggar after the motor is in. It’s a blind reach and a PITA.
Be sure to use an OEM sensor in there from a reputable source. The market is flooded with offshore counterfeit crap. You don’t want to replace that buggar after the motor is in. It’s a blind reach and a PITA.
OP
OP
OP
OP
Yes everything is from Rock Auto and GM, ACDelco, Felpro. You get the idea.
Nothing from ChingChong China. I only use name brand, where they get it from i can't control.
When my engine was out for the cam job, I installed a 1 foot grease gun hose for the oil pressure sensor. Got fittings off ebay. Now the sensor lies up close to the purge valve alongside the intake manifold. No problems changing that baby now ! The mechanic extended the wiring for it. Grease gun hose rated for 5000 psi or somethng like that. Working good.
OP
OP
That would sure work. Im installing a new one with the wrecking yard engine.
I also do not believe the old one is bad.
I also do not believe the old one is bad.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
I have tried to find where I got the info on the 5364 heads being problematic, but I couldn't find it anywhere. Therefore, I guess it looks like I'm wrong.
OP
OP
It's cool. More info on these trucks helps everyone
OP
OP
Thanks to this bearing, i will never have to work about the 8 seals under the valley cover.
OP
OP
Also found a great parts cleaner. Gets old varnish and gunk off pretty good. I tossed the parts in a bucket and let them soak for a couple of hours and rinsed them clean. No scrubbing.
OP
OP
Looks like im not going to get this engine changed before it just gets too cold and s4ity out sadly.
I'm really thinking about this weekend changing the oil pump and o ring on the current engine.
I can do it without taking the oil pan out. I know it can be done as i have done it once before. Im 99% sure the cam bearings are shot so trying to decide if i really wanna do it or not.
It can't hurt to do it for sure and there is a 1% chance it could help a lot, but i don't want to waste the time doing it if it changes nothing.
I have about 700 bucks of other parts from Rock Auto sitting here i really want to get installed. Mostly maintenance stuff like a rear window switch, motor mount kinda stuff.
Hard choice for me.
Last weekend i got the blown rear shocks changed with some wrecking yard shocks. What a nice difference that made and pretty easy. Had them both changed in 45 minutes from the time i slid the jack underneath till i pulled the jack out.
I can use my buddys garage for a day next weekend and need to put new front axles on it and ball joints.
I'm really thinking about this weekend changing the oil pump and o ring on the current engine.
I can do it without taking the oil pan out. I know it can be done as i have done it once before. Im 99% sure the cam bearings are shot so trying to decide if i really wanna do it or not.
It can't hurt to do it for sure and there is a 1% chance it could help a lot, but i don't want to waste the time doing it if it changes nothing.
I have about 700 bucks of other parts from Rock Auto sitting here i really want to get installed. Mostly maintenance stuff like a rear window switch, motor mount kinda stuff.
Hard choice for me.
Last weekend i got the blown rear shocks changed with some wrecking yard shocks. What a nice difference that made and pretty easy. Had them both changed in 45 minutes from the time i slid the jack underneath till i pulled the jack out.
I can use my buddys garage for a day next weekend and need to put new front axles on it and ball joints.
OP
OP
Ok so i decided to play sick today from work and change that oil pump.
Started at 9AM and done by 1:45pm so not to bad and had a couple short coffee breaks.
Discovered someone had been working on it before. The crank pulley bolt was loose and not even finger tight.
Kinda makes sense. The PO told me new cam bearings had been installed a year ago but the oil pressure was still FKD and he did not have any receipts.
I figured yeah right, I don't believe that for a minute with the oil pressure it has and you don't install new cam bearings and still have bad oil pressure.
I'm buying it cheap believing it needs an engine and was 99% convinced after seeing the shiny stuff in the oil drain pan.
Taking it apart is easy.
1: I did not even loosen the oil pan to allow it to drop an inch.
2: Taking out the pickup tube bolt is not bad. Once loose you can turn it out with a screwdriver. Tedious for sure but it works. I used a strong magnet on the bottom of the pan to catch it in case i dropped it and i did but the magnet caught it and made it easily retrievable.
3: Take the oil pump apart and lightly pry on the pickup tube and the pump comes right off.
4: Coffee or Beer break, Your choice.
5: You will need to take the new oil pump apart to install it. Before you put it back on, be sure to clean the tube and install the green o ring. With a little wiggling and twisting, it will eventually slide into place.
6: The entire hard part of the job is getting the pickup tube bolt back in and here is how i did it.
I used a new bolt and cut about 16 tiny notches around the washer part of the bolt. I then put 1 wrap of bailing wire around to hold the bolt and allow me to feed it back into the hole. The notches allowed me to turn the bolt easy with a screwdriver. Once i had the bolt about halfway in i pulled off the bailing wire. Continued turning it with a screwdriver until i could get a box end wrench on it and tightened it down.
7: Reassembled the oil pump. Tightened it down making sure i could get a .001 feeler gauge around it.
Putting the cover back on and reassembling everything else should be self explanatory.
Forgot to mention i also found a bad o ring.
Started at 9AM and done by 1:45pm so not to bad and had a couple short coffee breaks.
Discovered someone had been working on it before. The crank pulley bolt was loose and not even finger tight.
Kinda makes sense. The PO told me new cam bearings had been installed a year ago but the oil pressure was still FKD and he did not have any receipts.
I figured yeah right, I don't believe that for a minute with the oil pressure it has and you don't install new cam bearings and still have bad oil pressure.
I'm buying it cheap believing it needs an engine and was 99% convinced after seeing the shiny stuff in the oil drain pan.
Taking it apart is easy.
1: I did not even loosen the oil pan to allow it to drop an inch.
2: Taking out the pickup tube bolt is not bad. Once loose you can turn it out with a screwdriver. Tedious for sure but it works. I used a strong magnet on the bottom of the pan to catch it in case i dropped it and i did but the magnet caught it and made it easily retrievable.
3: Take the oil pump apart and lightly pry on the pickup tube and the pump comes right off.
4: Coffee or Beer break, Your choice.
5: You will need to take the new oil pump apart to install it. Before you put it back on, be sure to clean the tube and install the green o ring. With a little wiggling and twisting, it will eventually slide into place.
6: The entire hard part of the job is getting the pickup tube bolt back in and here is how i did it.
I used a new bolt and cut about 16 tiny notches around the washer part of the bolt. I then put 1 wrap of bailing wire around to hold the bolt and allow me to feed it back into the hole. The notches allowed me to turn the bolt easy with a screwdriver. Once i had the bolt about halfway in i pulled off the bailing wire. Continued turning it with a screwdriver until i could get a box end wrench on it and tightened it down.
7: Reassembled the oil pump. Tightened it down making sure i could get a .001 feeler gauge around it.
Putting the cover back on and reassembling everything else should be self explanatory.
Forgot to mention i also found a bad o ring.
