OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.

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mikeyss

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I think i have a plan for the oil pressure and rough idle. Seems like a good plan anyway.

This weekend.
Change sender and check for screen.
New Plugs, wires.
New intake gaskets.
New valley cover gaskets.

If that does not fix it then the next weekend will be,
New oil pump. Milling 10355HV. Maybe new VVT stuff. Its not that much and im in there already so.

If that does not fix it i will have to assume the motor has bad bearings and will replace the engine with a 60day warranty wrecking yard special.
I just installed the same oil pump you've listed and my oil pressure at cold idle is 60psi, and hot idle is 35-40psi. Long story short, my oil pump was replaced when I built my motor a few years ago, and it was an AC Delco replacement. It 100% failed on me with less than 30k on it last month. Luckily when it failed, I was home.
 
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SpareParts

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Here is the dilemma with my plan.
I can do the sensor. VVT stuff and the oil pump and still have the same problem. Winter is coming fast and i have to do all this work in my back yard. It will be snowing here by the end of next month.
So im really leaning on just getting another engine and spend a few weekends swapping it out.
The engine i can get is $2,500 with a 6 month warranty.
Has 45 PSI hot oil pressure and compression is 220-230. 186K miles
Really leaning on going that route.
 

petethepug

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What’s the data on the Denali replacement motor?

07-08 6.2L L92 (+ Esky).
07-08 6.2L L92 (pick up truck)
09 6.2 L9H (+ Esky)
09-13 6.2L L9H (pick up truck)
10-14 6.2L L94 (AFM)

If you can find an L9H it does not have AFM but requires the same higher volume fuel pump & injectors as the L94 as they’re set up to run e85.
 
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Data?
The 8th digit is 8 of the posted vin. My current is not AFM. As far as i know the replacement is not AFM.
 
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I think i see what your saying.
I have never seen a station offering E85 so an L92 will work fine for me.
 

dadwagon95

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I'd say f it and go hard or go home with a millings high volume oil pump and a double chain to increase velocity... My 04 Yukon runs 50-60 PSI oil pressure at 1500 -2500 RPMs around 40-50psi at idle. You'll be able to do an overhaul and change the seals out that are behind the timing cover, I'd maybe check for and real bad pressurized leaks that could cause a significant loss of oil pressure. If I'm not mistaken the 07's had the dod system and they are garbage in my opinion and different valley Pan with the electronics that run through it and the four valves that have that fancy feature so it's considered 4 cylinder on the highway.
Heard of people getting a delete kit for those DOD systems, it sucks you can't just swap the valley pans and be done with the GM wanted to go with the whole system either delete it or change it
 

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Sorry for confusion. I corrected my last thread to reference your truck as a Denali instead of an Esky. I move through the Esky forums a lot.

L92 it is then. Consider using ARP studs on the exhaust manifolds while they’re out. They’ll never break or rust up. When it’s time to pull the trans you’ll be happy you did.
 
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No DOD. I think the system is there but it is non functional from the factory.. I also have a flat valley cover.
Definitely going with new exhaust bolts and several other new parts if I replace the engine.
I need to decide today on what path to take.
 
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This morning when i started it up and drove to work for about the first 10 minutes i could hear a knock. To light for a rod and way to light for a main so i believe piston slap.
Never did it before today. I wonder if the PO had some additive in it that masked the piston slap and since i changed the oil it finally cleaned out enough to start making noise.
I know piston slap is supposed to be no big deal but it is another reason to replace the engine.

A little back history.
About 8 years ago i bought a used 2008 Escalade with 140K, 6.2L that seemed perfect.
Maybe 3 months later it developed low oil pressure and i did the usual stuff you read to try.
New sender and removed screen, Helped nothing.
New Melling HV oil pump and O ring. Helped but not much and over the next month oil pressure dropped to near 0 again.
Had a Rebuilt engine installed. 3 year 100k warranty. About 6 moths later it started loosing oil pressure and piston slap developed.
Sold it and gave the guy the warranty papers and wished him good luck.
Swearing i would never have another 6.2ls as the oiling system and cam bearing design is cra*
Im a GM guy and love the Suburban's, Yukon's and Escalade,s and needed another newer one in my life.
I do own a k2500, 6.0, 2001 Suburban with 180K and a 2014 Avalanche 5.3 with 130k(wife's DD)
I purposely bought the cheapest NNBS one i could find with all else being in good shape knowing it would probably need an engine if the usual fixes did not work and im totally prepared for and expect that for the price.
So from my previous experience and the usual fixes not working im going to replace the engine and not mess with the current one.

The wrecking yard replacement engine will get some new parts though.
New rear main seal and as long as im there a new barbell.
New front crank seal
New oil pump O ring
New VVT system
New oil pan gasket
New valley cover gasket's
New Oil sender.
New intake gaskets
New valve cover gaskets
New Plugs/wires
New exhaust manifold bolts
New oil/Filter
Am i missing anything?
 
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After changing oil i let the pan sit for close to a week (mostly because i was lazy but curious)
After carefully draining the pan this was in the bottom. Lots of sparkly stuff!
Nothing is going to fix that.
20241025_133429.jpg
 

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Our 08 Denali had scary piston slap below 50* at cold start up. The 40k and six years we had it, nothing came of it. The new owner I sold it to knew of it and appreciated the heads up.

I’d slip a new TC in filled w/ fresh fluid and service the trans, fluid & filter. Press the trip reset button and wait for another 100k.
 
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Our 08 Denali had scary piston slap below 50* at cold start up. The 40k and six years we had it, nothing came of it. The new owner I sold it to knew of it and appreciated the heads up.

I’d slip a new TC in filled w/ fresh fluid and service the trans, fluid & filter. Press the trip reset button and wait for another 100k.
After seeing what is in the bottom of the pan after a normal oil change this advice makes no since to me. If you are saying just run it.
Servicing the trans however does with out a doubt.
 

j91z28d1

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After changing oil i let the pan sit for close to a week (mostly because i was lazy but curious)
After carefully draining the pan this was in the bottom. Lots of sparkly stuff!
Nothing is going to fix that.
View attachment 441170


ouch.. is that all aluminum? wow.

any chance you have the oil filter still to cut open? I got into the habit it cutting my filters open to take a peak to look for signed it wear. so far I haven't found any yet thou.
 
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I have the filter but have not cut it open yet. Ill also be cutting the filter open on the engine i bought
 
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The oil filter on the current engine was a Napa Platinum. Cut it apart the best i could and it did have a at least 8 shiny metal chips about like you see in the oil pan.

The filter on the Replacement engine was a Quaker State. Needed changed for sure but, It had no metal in it at all i could find.

After cutting apart both the filters i can say with out a doubt i would NEVER buy a Quaker State filter. It is total junk IMHO. Single layer with week pleating and nothing stopping it from collapsing, It is also has hard and brittle filter medium after use.
The Napa Platinum was constructed very well. Has 2 layers of pleated material with a mesh to help support it and stopping it from collapsing.
 

j91z28d1

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interesting you didn't find many in the filter as the pan. i hope you have time to take a look at the motor when you get it out. id have to go back and look but if it's a aluminum 6.2 it might be worth something if it's not damaged to badly.



hopefully the new motor is solid. any plans for it before you drop it in?
 
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I have 6months to return the core and get my $875 core charge back. 6.2l engines have a decent demand. Im going to try to sell it as a rebuildable core for $1000
if not ill just return it. Im also thinking of keeping it and rebuilding it to put in the wife's Avalanche that has a 5.3 in it. So i have time to decide on what i wanna do.

The replacement engine will get everything listed in post #30
 

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If the glittery 6.2L L92 is salvageable that 400hp tied to the 6L80 6SP in the wifey’s Avalanche would make her happy. Of course she’d be most happy with the AFM being gone in the 5.3L, right?
 

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