Oil filter difference ?

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BG1988

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I'm at the point that I need to change the oil and filter. What is the difference from a AC PF63 and a PF63E ? And is that the right oil filter, or is there a better choice ? Thank you !
Don't Buy E series filters they are garbage the filter medium degrades and if it happens to fail your engine will require replacement. it turns into a heavy duty Paper sludge
avoid ones that use paper end caps as well

“We have a saying: Lo barato sale caro. The cheap comes out expensive.” You get what you pay for!

I have used fram filters but they stop filtering at 2k miles honestly i can't afford to do 2k oil changes but 4-5k is fine that is what I get with mobil1 filters they also sell tall can filters . my oil stays clean tell 4500 miles.on the regular size.. that is when i change it to KEEP the engine squeaky clean inside..

The outside of the engine does not matter oil and dirt keeps it from galvanizing or rusting :p
 
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iamdub

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Prior research I had done showed me that Purolator Pure 1, Wix, M1, and K&N were all basically equal.

The guys on "BITOG" tell me that the Ultra does a better job of filtering smaller microns than the M1 extended performance filters I currently run.

The ultra uses a synthetic media vs the paper in the M1.

The K&N is extremely hard to argue with, due to the nut on the bottom, when the filter is in the factory location. On my remote mount it really isn't an issue to get your hands on the filters though.

Most guys, on here, aren't running 13k-15k mile OCIs like me, so for most they aren't getting anywhere near what they potentially could out of their filters. I guess what I'm saying is the filter probably isn't as crucial with a 3k-5k mile OCI.

I agree with those four filter recommendations.

I do 5K OCIs which is almost a year between changes for me. So, a dual filter setup probably wouldn't be very cost-effective. Or, would it? I mean, extra clean oil is good whether it's in for 3K or 15K miles.

You mind posting a link to what you have, or maybe where it is in your thread?
 
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swathdiver

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I've run FRAM filters on our other cars for thirty years without issue. Even when we were broke and kept resetting the OLM to zero a couple of times, the filters had 20K on them by then and never an issue. I like the black grit they use to help tighten it or loosen when its oily too. Currently running FRAMs on the Pontiac and I think we're trying out the Supertech filters on the Kia. This Montana is on conventional oil, the Kia takes synthetic.

My baby gets the K&Ns! Statistics wise, it is tops, lower micron rating, higher burst pressure, higher flow rate, etc. And that nut, love the nut!

41b9nInxQFL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg
 
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That nut would get in the way of punching a hole in the bottom of the filter to let it drain before removing it so not to make a mess.

I use a strap wrench to loosen the filter. I use no wrench to put it on, just my hands..... 3/4 to a full turn after gasket touches (filter stops being wobbly)

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 
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As for oil filters, I usually use Mobil 1 oil and filters, but when I ordered that 6 gallon box of ACDelco oil, I also ordered a few of the ACDelco Gold Ultraguard filters (UPF48R)

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 
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James Ward

James Ward

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Thank you, I'm getting ready to turn 69, so I have been very aware of the aftermarket commerce and I have to say, that almost everything now used on any motor vehicle is very, very good as to quality, save for FRAM. Most every aspect of repair and improvement to the vehicles today is 5 stars. From the time I was a teenager, vehicles have changed for the good about 95% of the time. Which you pay for in a new $50K truck, and it is not hard to understand why folks get angry when something goes wrong with these vehicles. But to defend the auto makers they have to contend with a LONGER lasting vehicle, and conforming to the ever increasing pressure from the likes of the EPA and higher technology. There ain't no free lunch anymore. I paid $42K for my 2015 Tahoe, and I don't knock down a lot of miles overall, but I always buy 2+ 5 quart containers of Mobil-1 0W/20 and I change my oil every 6 months so no significant aging of my oil and filter takes place. As a habit I try to always use OEM parts and I've done that since 1965 and haven't been let down yet. I've worked on just about everything on wheels, and I've never bought anything not built here in the Untied States. Just my nature there, I spent 4 years in and around serving in Vietnam, with Navy engineers, so I'm kinda old school. I'm not knocking foreign makes, but I've always like domestic builders. Considering my past and used that insight when looking at a new truck. OK, thanks for your posts and I hope this year is your best.

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kbuskill

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I agree with those four filter recommendations.

I do 5K OCIs which is almost a year between changes for me. So, a dual filter setup probably wouldn't be very cost-effective. Or, would it? I mean, extra clean oil is good whether it's in for 3K or 15K miles.

You mind posting a link to what you have, or maybe where it is in your thread?


I installed a Derale 15749 dual filter setup...
Derale 15749 Engine Oil Filter Relocation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTYI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_X5ZfEbMV87TPA

Here is a link to my build thread with some pics of the mounting locations...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...urb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-3#post-1199569

I also installed an aftermarket oil cooler since my truck didn't have one already.

Then I ended up having hydraulic hoses made up for it so I could get away from those barbed fittings that came in the kit...

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...rb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-51#post-1324392
 

iamdub

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I installed a Derale 15749 dual filter setup...
Derale 15749 Engine Oil Filter Relocation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONTYI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_X5ZfEbMV87TPA

Here is a link to my build thread with some pics of the mounting locations...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...urb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-3#post-1199569

I also installed an aftermarket oil cooler since my truck didn't have one already.

Then I ended up having hydraulic hoses made up for it so I could get away from those barbed fittings that came in the kit...

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...rb-ltz-mod-thread.100141/page-51#post-1324392

That's not bad at all. I thought it was something like a $150-$200 kit made with machined billet adapters.

Looking at the pic on Amazon, my first thought was to change the straight hose barbs to angled crimped-on fittings, which I see you did.

Thanks for the links! Gonna do some reading.
 
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