RooTBeeRthe1st
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HahahaThe folks here are GOOD at helping spend your money.
That's one of those things I absolutely don't need any help with.
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HahahaThe folks here are GOOD at helping spend your money.
Update after test drive: Took the Yukon out for a little highway cruise to get it up to temperature this evening. Ambient air temp was 70ºF. The transmission temperature gradually climbed and held steady around 175º on the highway after 20 minutes or so. Then getting off the highway and going through traffic, the temp crept up to 185º. I stopped in a parking lot to check the cooler fan and it wasn't running yet. It didn't kick on until the indicated transmission temp was between 190º and 195ºF (stopped again to check when it was 194ºF), but it quickly stopped the rise and started bringing it back down. I shut the engine off and after a minute or so the fan stopped with the temp back down around 182ºF indicated.
Curious what those of you running this cooler are finding with it, where it keeps your temp with and without towing, and whether the fan brings your temp back down when towing up a grade effectively. Thanks for your thoughts.
Fans are still programmed to come on at the factory temps. I bought the 700w fan motor for the drivers side, along with the correct fan blade, and will install both this weekend.
Thanks for offering some good ideas.
A couple more showing the mounting and wiring from the bottom. I have 2 more straps that will attach to the bolts that hold the skid plate on.
View attachment 277637
View attachment 277638
Thank you for the details on your numbers, John. I plumbed it so that coolant flows from the transmission directly to the Derale and then back to the transmission. I have a front license plate in the way of getting direct ram air on the cooler, so the next step will be to fabricate some deflectors from aluminum sheet to direct the ram air coming in on either side of the license plate through the cooler instead of beside it, and rivet them in place. The numbers I'm getting make sense to me though because the transmission temperature sensor sits in the valve body, so it's plausible that it would be 10-15º cooler by the time it gets to the thermal switch on the cooler's inlet port through 6' of mostly aluminum line. Thus, if the switch activates the fan at 180º it makes sense that at the valve body the temp would be 190º+ by the time the fan comes on.Where did you tap power? Ign off fan off right? Those temps seem correct if you are still using the radiator "pre heater". How effective were you at getting the max ram air through the lower grill? The trans oil enters the bottom of the radiator "heater", Exit's the top "heated" and flows through the DERALE and back to the trans so temps will allways be influenced by radiator coolant. I have seen "stable" trans temps as low as 114 on 50 degree 70 mph freeway cruising, Which is "ram air" overcoming the radiator heater. My average temps on 80 degree oat are 155 degree's at 70 mph. Stop and go freeway traffic at 80 oat are same as yours approx 175 degrees once the fan comes on. Im going to eliminate the radiator from the circuit this summer and see how much of a difference it will make.
Thank you! Your ideas and photos helped tremendously - can't thank you enough for posting them.Cant explain the "no power" fuel pump fuse location but given that the fan will run for just a few minutes after shutdown as you have explained in another post id give your install an A+! That looks profesional and will add reliability to your vehicle. As i have commented previously, In order to see the true capabilities of the DERALE i think it should be used as a standalone and not use the factory radiator heater. Another member has installed the same cooler without the radiator so we will know soon enough what the difference would be. Great work!
Thanks for clarifying, Tom. I misread your photos. Sorry about that and thanks for clarifying and sharing your numbers. I like your idea of wiring in an override switch, and may do that.Just for the record: I kept the trans cooler circuit in the radiator.. So it goes
into the radiator - then to the derale cooler - then back to trans
In my short test drives, I'll get everything good and hot... Trans temp gets to
about 172* and stabilizes with suburban driving... IF I turn on the fan, the temp after a couple minutes will drop down to about 160* ish..
I haven't towed yet though... But I figure 10*-15* degree drop by turning on
the fan will keep me happy when towing
That's a good idea and will likely do that, but I have a hunch that my engine cooling problem will be solved now that there isn't a massive transmission cooler in front of it. Time for an HP Tuners setup.I highly recommend getting the fans programmed to come on with a higher duty cycle at lower temps. The factory programming is shit.
Oh I definitely agree that you helped it by relocating. Your factory settings on the tune will not allow a 97% duty cycle on the fans till your coolant is well into the upper 220 degree range. I need to do this upgrade to my Denali as well since we are doing a trip to Yellowstone this summer too.That's a good idea and will likely do that, but I have a hunch that my engine cooling problem will be solved now that there isn't a massive transmission cooler in front of it. Time for an HP Tuners setup.
Sweet! Hope y'all have a fabulous trip!Oh I definitely agree that you helped it by relocating. Your factory settings on the tune will not allow a 97% duty cycle on the fans till your coolant is well into the upper 220 degree range. I need to do this upgrade to my Denali as well since we are doing a trip to Yellowstone this summer too.
Nice! When we moved to Texas from the Vail Valley in Colorado we pulled our Travel Trailer which was loaded to about 7500-8K#. I couldn’t keep the temps under control on the two mountain passes but once I got down on the plains it regulated great. Fast forward to last summer we borrowed our friends TT and went to Galveston. I had a hell of a time keeping the temps under 230 on both motor and Trans. That was even with a brand new radiator and cooling system flush. I am not risking it this time!!Sweet! Hope y'all have a fabulous trip!
I've towed a lightly loaded, single-axle 5x10 cargo trailer across Kansas from Virginia to CO and back twice - once in May and once in July. The OAT driving westbound in July was 102ºF in a hot spell and the engine and transmission were both getting warm. For our trip to Yellowstone this August, I want my cooling system upgraded and fully sorted before we set out, so that's why I'm doing this work now while I still have time to experiment.
So tonight was a drive to soccer practice in 87° ambient temps. It took about 15 miles of driving to break 180° on the transmission temp, but then we sat in traffic for a while and the temperature crept up to 194°, before coming back down as the fan had turned on. Since the fan shut off temperature is 165° at the cooler inlet, it brought the transmission pan temperature down to about 178° before the fan shut off and the temperature started creeping back up again. Again, we will know more when we’re towing in the mountains this weekend, but I am very satisfied so far.
Also, when we parked at the game the fan was running, but shut off after maybe a minute, So having it wired into always on power doesn’t seem to be an issue so far.
Yes, that’s my concern as well. That switch is not a real sturdy piece of kit either. I’ll definitely move it to a switched source.My main concern with it being hooked to constant power wouldn't be it running for too long after shutting the engine off.
My main concern would be a malfunction with the thermostatic switch getting stuck in the closed position allowing it to run continuously.
Odds are probably pretty slim but there is always that possibility. Having on a switched source would be a fail-safe just in case. It would suck to come out to a dead battery.