Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat

[Geotrash]

Hi All, the 2012 XL Denali is a towing beast, but after the cam upgrade, new HD torque converter, and adding the Tru-Cool 40K in front of the radiator, the engine itself is running warm now that we're getting into spring. Hauled our 6500 lb camper down to Virginia Beach this weekend in 83º ambient weather, and the engine coolant temps were running between 227º and 237ºF per the OBD2 stream most of the way, which translates to about 3/4 up the temp gauge on the dash. But that was only at speed... at idle in traffic it was running much cooler, around 205º. So that tells me that my fans are working fine (verified as well), but that the Tru-Cool cooler is likely robbing some of my radiator's capacity when the engine's working hard. Transmission stayed nice and cool the whole way, never getting above 180º.

After reading a bunch of posts from all of you, especially @kbuskill's experience with his Cold Case, I went with a GMT569A as I have oil coolers on both ends of my factory radiator. I like the fact that it's a 2-row with 1-1/4" wide tubes and is significantly deeper than the factory radiator. Hoping that this upgrade will finally make this truck what I want it to be for our summer camping season, including a 4000 mile trip west out to Yellowstone.

Anything else you guys can think of to shore this truck up for camper duty?

 

[HD_LS]

Make sure you put a restriction in the small hose that goes from the top passenger side of the radiator to the surge tank. Otherwise you will get error messages. Including false hot engine, AC disabled actions. The stock radiator hose outlet is restricted, the cold case one is not.

 

[Geotrash]

Make sure you put a restriction in the small hose that goes from the top passenger side of the radiator to the surge tank. Otherwise you will get error messages. Including false hot engine, AC disabled actions. The stock radiator hose outlet is restricted, the cold case one is not.

Thanks D - yes, I did see that in Ken's thread. Thanks for calling it out to make sure - good call.

 

[kbuskill]

Thanks D - yes, I did see that in Ken's thread. Thanks for calling it out to make sure - good call.

Do you have any old aluminum valve stemmed TPMS sensors laying around?

I hear they work great as a restrictor for that radiator... lol

 

[Geotrash]

Do you have any old aluminum valve stemmed TPMS sensors laying around?

I hear they work great as a restrictor for that radiator... lol

So I hear! [emoji6]


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[thompsoj22]

Hi All, the 2012 XL Denali is a towing beast, but after the cam upgrade, new HD torque converter, and adding the Tru-Cool 40K in front of the radiator, the engine itself is running warm now that we're getting into spring. Hauled our 6500 lb camper down to Virginia Beach this weekend in 83º ambient weather, and the engine coolant temps were running between 227º as 237ºF per the OBD2 stream most of the way, which translates to about 3/4 up the temp gauge on the dash. But that was only at speed... at idle in traffic it was running much cooler, around 205º. So that tells me that my fans are working fine (verified as well), but that the Tru-Cool cooler is likely robbing some of my radiator's capacity when the engine's working hard. Transmission stayed nice and cool the whole way, never getting above 180º.

After reading a bunch of posts from all of you, especially @kbuskill's experience with his Cold Case, I went with a GMT569A as I have oil coolers on both ends of my factory radiator. I like the fact that it's a 2-row with 1-1/4" wide tubes and is significantly deeper than the factory radiator. Hoping that this upgrade will finally make this truck what I want it to be for our summer camping season, including a 4000 mile trip west out to Yellowstone.

Anything else you guys can think of to shore this truck up for camper duty?

Try the 700 watt/7 blade fan motor on the drivers side only, It made a difference for me. I know you have skills from reading your posts so consider the additional current required to use it. JMO, But there is no reason to run the trans fluid through the radiator in the summer, When you install the new radiator simply use your trukool as a standalone and id guess you will notice a significant improvement in coolant temps.

 

[Geotrash]

Thank you, @thompsoj22 . I notice that the 700w fan motor may have been standard equipment in the Escalade. But the only place I can find them this morning is on eBay. Any chance you have a source you would recommend? I now also understand the wisdom of your remote mounted Derale cooler.

Update: After a little more research, it looks like the 700W fan motors came with the enhanced cooling package (K5L), which mine does not have. PartsGeek Part Number: 127975-05620229. I'll order the one for the drivers side today and replace it when I pull the fans to replace the radiator. Do you happen to know if the existing wiring will support 2 of the 700W fans?

 

[1BADI5]

Install pics or it never happened

 

[thompsoj22]

Thank you, @thompsoj22 . I notice that the 700w fan motor may have been standard equipment in the Escalade. But the only place I can find them this morning is on eBay. Any chance you have a source you would recommend? I now also understand the wisdom of your remote mounted Derale cooler.

Update: After a little more research, it looks like the 700W fan motors came with the enhanced cooling package (K5L), which mine does not have. PartsGeek Part Number: 127975-05620229. I'll order the one for the drivers side today and replace it when I pull the fans to replace the radiator. Do you happen to know if the existing wiring will support 2 of the 700W fans?

I have had no problem with the harness but i cant claim knowledge of the OEM harness limitations in regard to amperage/current. The 700 watt motor's that i purchased from rockauto are GM#15780796 or ACDELCO#15-80881. I honestly dont advise two 700's. It is overkill, and "unnecessary" except in extreme "short duration" situations. Staying with the 5 blade/500 watt on the passenger side and upgrading to the 7 blade/700 watt on the drivers side is the right combo. Order the new 7 blade fan at the same time, Im serious when the 700 cycle's to high the sound and volume of air will amaze you! You dont want an old brittle plastic fan on the 700 watt motor coming apart and going through your new radiator.

 

[Geotrash]

Again, thank you. After studying all the part numbers for various model years and cooling system options, I landed on a 700 W motor designed for the enhanced cooling system spec (K5L) for the 2012 MY, along with an upgraded five bladed fan designed for the same enhanced system.


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