Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Took it for a quick little drive, it's better.
1-2 was being all flare. but that's gone now

 

[pwtr02ss]

Found a nice video telling me how to get the fast learn to fire off using HP Tuners

Adding the FastLearnStatus, it gave me directions to place in Drive.
then a nice status as it did it's thing.

Now i'm stuck in between gears, but that's normal.
IIRC I just need to wait it out.

Open the door for like 10 seconds, and close it, with the key out of the ignition. That supposedly resets whatever needs to be reset

Edit: Disregard. I didn't realize that as posted yesterday lol

 

[Just Fishing]

So far everything is going well... lol

I have those lumbar gears on order.
And I'm looking to replace an airbag sensor today...
My helper apparently managed to slap it with a crowbar.
Looking at the location, I have 0 clue how he managed to hit it from where he was.

Oh well, costs a good $100 for the doorman replacement and the warning is anoying me.

 

[Just Fishing]

And I'm still running the stock 5.3 tune, seems to be just fine.

Surprising.
Only changes was in the displacement section.

Been watching for engine knock and the afr gauge.
Everything has been looking good.

I really really want to start messing around with the engine timing.
Mostly applying the 6.2 map, that was amazing with my prior testing.

Even the 6.0 2500hd timing was better than the 5.3.

I have a feeling that the 5.3 would have benefited from a good tuner.

I'm holding off for now, once I'm ready to really dig in.

I also need to wrap my head around the different fields that affect timing before I start copy pasting fields.

 

[Just Fishing]

New seat cushion came, so I slapped that baby in last night.
It wasn't too difficult, but I did end up pulling the seat to make it easier to get to.
Bolts are a reverse torx bit, but a 6 point socket worked just fine.

One of the little velcro pads came off on me when I went to undo it in order to stretch the leather out.
But I have a can of 3m spray glue, stuck it back on nicely.
I also needed that to re attach the heater element to the new foam.

I didn't get any pictures of the process, mostly because there are a ton of vids on youtube covering it.

The new oem foam was dark grey, almost black.
But still very soft like the original.
I wasn't expecting that.

The ac delco box had been opened, but it looks like it was to put the receipt in there...
I would have preferred that they didn't break the seal.
But oh well, the seat is back together and very comfortable!

I also cracked open the power lumbar gear box.
I confirmed 3 gears just like it should have per Gruven.
But the outer ring gear has a crack in it.

I doubt it will matter much, but I'll probably steal the ring gear out of the passenger side for now.

I also found a broken part in the lumbar itself.
The wire piece seems to be made out of aluminum, and coated with plastic.

I thought I was screwed, but then I got the idea to use my handy safety wire pliers.

I spun up a piece of the heaviest stainless wire I have then folded it over.

The end ring attached to the original broken end.
Then secured with some smaller safety wire.

It's pretty stiff, so I think it will work.

I finished it up with some shrink tubing.
Mostly so it won't snag.

So far it feels like it will work just fine, but I won't know for sure until Gruven actually ships my parts out.

 

[Just Fishing]

and the picture of the freshened seat.
Last night I used my steamer to try and get some of the wrinkles out of the leather.
Much better than it was for sure.

Due to the little repair on the side, I was tempted to replace the cover.
but I opted to use the current one instead, saving me some money.
+ I like the aged look of the leather.

 

[Tonyrodz]

and the picture of the freshened seat.
Last night I used my steamer to try and get some of the wrinkles out of the leather.
Much better than it was for sure.
View attachment 371709

Due to the little repair on the side, I was tempted to replace the cover.
but I opted to use the current one instead, saving me some money.
+ I like the aged look of the leather.

You could bring the lower cover to an upholsterer. They could replace just that one panel--it's vinyl, so it shouldn't be much.

 

[Just Fishing]

Video I used to do the seat cover

It also covers removing the back of the seat after they do the bottom.

 

[Just Fishing]

You could bring the lower cover to an upholsterer. They could replace just that one panel--it's vinyl, so it shouldn't be much.

I thought about that, I think they could at a minimum install a better looking patch.
Maybe later on, for now it works, and It's much more comfortable.

 

[Just Fishing]

Still no shipped status for my seat parts.
But with the lumbar "fixed" as it is and the tension removed, the seat back is much more comfortable.

The seat bottom is amazing. Lol

 

[Just Fishing]

And I pulled the valve covers, removed the rockers, and one of the .020 shims on each.
Replaced with a .010

Overall shimming reduced from .040 to .030.

I also noted that my rocker arm geometry is perfect.
Roller tip line centered on the valve, and the swipe pattern is very narrow!

Meaning it needed the shinming, even though compcams said it was fine as it was...

From my prior testing with a thinner shim, this shouldn't make much of a difference.

There were some signs, mostly on the driver side that showed some hammering onto the valve stem.
Good chance my issue was only on that side.

But I didn't go crazy with the preload checking.

 

[Just Fishing]

Plan today is to do the upper control arms, amd lower ball joints.

While every thing is apart, I'm thinking it's a good time to install the 2in leveler.
I bought the one that mounts to the top of the strut.

I had wanted to do the struts at the same time, but the bad ball joint on the driver side is rushing me.

I need time to source all of the oem parts to retain the premium ride package that makes this thing delightful when hauling ass down the dirt roads.

 

[George B]

But after I made the order, I find out about these little plastic gears in the seat lumbar that strip out over time.
And I can hear the motor buzzing, but nothing adjusts.
that same company makes little metal gears to replace the plastic ones.

My lumbar hasn't worked since 2013. I asked questions on here but never got an answer. Hopefully you can figure it out.

I repaired the gears in my drivers seat. Will see if I can dig up the info.

07-14 Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban Seat Gear Replacement

The adjustment gears for the rear portion of my drivers side lower cushion stripped on my 13 Suburban so I ordered the Gruven parts kit for it and finally got around to doing the job. There are plenty of videos out there so I won’t reinvent the wheel here but I thought I would share my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[George B]

I repaired the gears in my drivers seat. Will see if I can dig up the info.

07-14 Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban Seat Gear Replacement

The adjustment gears for the rear portion of my drivers side lower cushion stripped on my 13 Suburban so I ordered the Gruven parts kit for it and finally got around to doing the job. There are plenty of videos out there so I won’t reinvent the wheel here but I thought I would share my...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Oops, you mean lumbar. I did work on that too. Pretty easy to get to through the back of the seat.

 

[Just Fishing]

I'm half tempted to just take the parts from the passenger seat for the lumbar support.

I don't know what's holding up Gruven, but it has been over a week and it still says awaiting fulfillment.

And as for my suspension parts, amazon is a day late with the upper control arms.

Says today, but they have let me down so many times... lol

I'm probably going to just pull the filter while it's up on jack stands, cut it open to make me feel better replace it and take the hoe for a drive to see if the valve train is happy now.

 

[Just Fishing]

Well, the new lifter preload made a world of difference.
Sounds so much quieter now, but I still have a tiny hint of the lifter noise at light throttle cruising.

When I have the motivation, I'll take out the .010 shim and replace it with a .005
I have some shim stock, so that will be an "arts and crafts" day to make a set of 16.

ETA, nm I'm dumb.
I forgot I have other shims, so I'll just pull the .020 shim and replace it with a .015 shim

When?
Later... Much later.

 

[Just Fishing]

Driving the Tahoe around with the slight adjustment on the lifters.
There is a difference!

More power and response.
I accidently broke traction loose shifting down @30 in tow mode.
I didn't think it would let me do that if I have traction control enabled and crap.

I played around a little with it, and I have more top end for sure.
My oil pressure is also a little happier.

I think I need to try a little more preload to see if it's happier..
but for now, I'm happy.

Watching the AFR gauge while enjoying a preview of what's to come for this engine is a pain in the rear.

 

[Just Fishing]

Time to do my suspension.
Yesterday I slapped on new rear shocks, I kept the PN from some research i did a while back.
Plan is to keep the "premium ride", so I sourced the OEM components.
Rear shocks are easy, and I had some help finding/confirming the correct PN for the front struts.

Codes I have,
PREMIUM SMOOTH RIDE CHAS PKG(ZW7)
6PB COMPONENT FRT LH COMPTR SEL SUSP(6PB)
7PB COMPONENT FRT RH COMPTR SEL SUSP(7PB)


Rear shocks resolve to: 25871225 aka 540-433

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KSA28Q

$69 each (went up by $1 )

Front Struts
20765171 aka 540-460

ACDelco GM Original Equipment 540-460 Shock Absorber | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ACDelco GM Original Equipment 540-460 Shock Absorber at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Price went up since I ordered them, I paid $86 each

 

[Just Fishing]

I have Moog Upper control arms, and I decided to just do the lower ball joints.

I tried with a cheap ball joint press, but it didn't have the support piece for the ball joint removal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CO50E

It also came with a sticker on the little C press tool "do not use impact"
I pealed that sticker right off first thing.
The tool was pretty ******, the slop in the threads felt like it was just asking to strip out.

One option would be to just remove the control arm and use my 20 ton shop press using the adapters that do work.

But I decided to just return the cheap tool and order a better ball joint press instead.

This one:
Astro Pneumatic Tool 7897 21Pc Ball Joint Service Tool and Master Adapter Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGZO

This one has an adapter that should support the control arm and allow room for the ball joint to drop out.


Then the front springs,
I was going to buy the harbor freight tool.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

But as recommended, this one might be a bit handier later on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PYR6NVF

I named this the widow maker.
Wife makes $$ if something terrible happens.

That harbor freight one is in stock at my local store, so if all else fails I can go grab it.


Once this job is done, I get to start shopping for the upper bearing plate for the struts on the wifes Buick.
It's making some noise over bumps, and I finally figured out what it probably is.

 

[Just Fishing]

Another tool that I talked myself into, a new air hammer.

Sunex SX243 Hd 250-Mm Long Barrel Air Hammer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AU956U

With the pickle fork on the end, it looks like something out of starwars.


The one I have been using for years, and I have no complaints other than it could use a little more power.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Air-Hammer-with-Chisels/3309276

That's really meant for removing tile and stuff, but it has popped several ball joints in it's life.
That thing is like 11 years old now, and my old air compressor liked to pass water.
Lots of water.

Usually it needed a good oiling each time, otherwise it wouldn't "chooch".


For the pickle fork,
I learned already to never buy one of those crappy two piece deals that they sell online.
if those things get loose even a little, the threads snap off and it makes them useless.

I found that Harbor freight sells them for $11 each!
They have two sizes, one small and one large.
I have never found any use for the small sized one.

I couldn't locate my pickle fork for some reason, so it's good to have a spare anyways.
@ $11, can't go wrong right?


Another tool that's helpful for tasks like this, hammer bits!
This is a random search/find.
I have a set that has several different sizes, different brands and price ranges all over.

https://www.amazon.com/KELEN-Hammer-Smoothing-Smooth-Pneumatic/dp/B09LMM83RV

If the joint won't come free, even with the air hammer.
Use one of these from the side and hammer on the spindle where the ball joint shaft goes through.
This usually pops them free with ease.

The next step/level would be heat.